Adirondacker
Senior Member
I received a couple questions about putting the curve on the bottom side of the lids for box calls. Here's the method I came up with by trial and error, yes some made it to the kindling box. I figured I'd post it as a help to some and also to see if anyone had any suggestions. I'm guessing this can be done by some type of power shaper but one hasn't turned up in my shop. After making a few now I can knock out this curve in 15 to 20 minutes depending on the wood hardness. Counting layout, bandsawing, and shaping I figure each lid takes about 45 to 60 minutes total.
1. (Pict 1)I divide the underside of the roughed out lid into 4 equal parts with a pencil. At this point I have already got the blank cut to the exact thickness, length and width. I also found it best to have the handle shape cut out and not curve the underside of that part.
2. I clamped a bar to the workbench as a backstop and clamped the handle down so that the blank moves as little as possible when I work it with a rasp. Push strokes work best but you have to be careful with softer woods not to gouge too deep.
3. (Pict 2 and 3) At first I concentrate only on getting the edge profile thickness right. I don't think there is a right or wrong thickness but be careful not to get it too thin or have blank hanging off edge of workbench! Gentle stokes at first break the edge. Don't worry about the lines you drew when creating this first flat surface.
4. (Pict 4 and 5) Next your going to work to make a second flat surface from the upper edge you just created to the nearest drawn line. At this point you are just rasping to create flat surfaces. You will break down the edges between them later.
5. (Pict 7) Next you rasp another flat surface from the upper upper edge you just created to the center line.
6. Flip it over and do the same on the other side and you will have six flat surfaces.
7. Then you work the edges where the flat surfaces meet and this creates five more flat surfaces. With softer woods you can switch to a flat file. I have two rasps, one being more aggressive than the other. I also have several different files as well. I switch between them depending on how the wood responds all the while mindful that I cannot put wood back on
8. After filing I switch to 120 grit sandpaper and work everything into a curve with strokes going lengthwise. The last two pictures show the last paddle I made out of mahogany.
9. After that I go between the belt sander and drill press with a drum sander bit to shape and smooth the handle portion. No since spending time on that if I mess up when creating the curved underside.
Hope this helps.
1. (Pict 1)I divide the underside of the roughed out lid into 4 equal parts with a pencil. At this point I have already got the blank cut to the exact thickness, length and width. I also found it best to have the handle shape cut out and not curve the underside of that part.
2. I clamped a bar to the workbench as a backstop and clamped the handle down so that the blank moves as little as possible when I work it with a rasp. Push strokes work best but you have to be careful with softer woods not to gouge too deep.
3. (Pict 2 and 3) At first I concentrate only on getting the edge profile thickness right. I don't think there is a right or wrong thickness but be careful not to get it too thin or have blank hanging off edge of workbench! Gentle stokes at first break the edge. Don't worry about the lines you drew when creating this first flat surface.
4. (Pict 4 and 5) Next your going to work to make a second flat surface from the upper edge you just created to the nearest drawn line. At this point you are just rasping to create flat surfaces. You will break down the edges between them later.
5. (Pict 7) Next you rasp another flat surface from the upper upper edge you just created to the center line.
6. Flip it over and do the same on the other side and you will have six flat surfaces.
7. Then you work the edges where the flat surfaces meet and this creates five more flat surfaces. With softer woods you can switch to a flat file. I have two rasps, one being more aggressive than the other. I also have several different files as well. I switch between them depending on how the wood responds all the while mindful that I cannot put wood back on
8. After filing I switch to 120 grit sandpaper and work everything into a curve with strokes going lengthwise. The last two pictures show the last paddle I made out of mahogany.
9. After that I go between the belt sander and drill press with a drum sander bit to shape and smooth the handle portion. No since spending time on that if I mess up when creating the curved underside.
Hope this helps.
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lid making 1 (2000 x 1500).jpg76 KB · Views: 1,295
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lid making 2 (2000 x 1500).jpg90.6 KB · Views: 1,264
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lid making 3 (2000 x 1500).jpg59.3 KB · Views: 1,276
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lid making 4 (2000 x 1500).jpg85.6 KB · Views: 1,295
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lid making 5 (2000 x 1500).jpg94.6 KB · Views: 1,281
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lid making 6 (2000 x 1500).jpg94.6 KB · Views: 1,305
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lid making 7 (2000 x 1500).jpg102.7 KB · Views: 1,312
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lid making 9 (976 x 1632).jpg48.7 KB · Views: 1,260
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lid making 10 (1632 x 976).jpg38.1 KB · Views: 1,278
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