Treated wood?

• Sep 4, 2012

• #1

lbzdually

Banned

I am building a larger storage building and selling my 10x16. The new one will be 20x20 with 2x8 floor joists set on block 'piers'. It will be covered with metal so it will not see direct water. Do I need to use treated wood for the floor joists? I think I did in the 10x16, but can't remember.

 

• Sep 4, 2012

• #2

Lukikus2

Senior Member

If it were me, I would. Just for the moisture factor under the shed and being treated will keep insects out of it longer.

 

• Sep 4, 2012

• #3

shakey gizzard

Senior Member

X2! If you plan to heat it in the winter the metal will sweat/condensate.Slab would be better!

 

• Sep 4, 2012

• #4

1gr8bldr

Senior Member

P.T. is generally not much more $

 

• Sep 4, 2012

• #5

Wild Turkey

Senior Member

Pour concrete slab, you wont regret it.

 

• Sep 4, 2012

• #6

lbzdually

Banned

After talking to the County, I will have to get a building permit for anything over 120 sq ft anyways, so the extra cost of concrete will be worth it. I can put in anchors and then attach my treated bottom plate to it and it will be very sturdy. I am using the tractor to level it all out so that will save me a bunch of money.

 

• Sep 4, 2012

• #7

1gr8bldr

Senior Member

lbzdually said:

After talking to the County, I will have to get a building permit for anything over 120 sq ft anyways, so the extra cost of concrete will be worth it. I can put in anchors and then attach my treated bottom plate to it and it will be very sturdy. I am using the tractor to level it all out so that will save me a bunch of money.

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Most premanufactured buildings that you can buy are not confined to codes. If your not effecient in building, this might be an option. Or, build it a say you bought it and had it moved in????

 

• Sep 4, 2012

• #8

1gr8bldr

Senior Member

Attaching the bottom plate to the concrete is code, but not worth much. At each bolt, buy a strap that connects the plate to the studs. I have seen them with nothing but a seal bolted to the concrete with nails sticking up where every stud was. Also make sure you nail the bottom edge of the plywood to the bottom plate, not just the studs.

 

• Sep 5, 2012

• #9

greg_n_clayton

Senior Member

QUOTE=1gr8bldr;7179925]P.T. is generally not much more $[/QUOTE]

Cheaper around here !!

 

• Sep 5, 2012

• #10

hiawassee1

Senior Member

first off go bigger, if you dont now you will regret it later, I sure wish I would have added another 20 ft
And slab is a definate

 

• Sep 5, 2012

• #11

lbzdually

Banned

hiawassee1 said:

first off go bigger, if you dont now you will regret it later, I sure wish I would have added another 20 ft
And slab is a definate

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This is just going be my little building. My father-in-law and going together and building a 30x40. He got a bunch of free commercial metal roofing and we plan on using it.

 

• Sep 5, 2012

• #12

1gr8bldr

Senior Member

greg_n_clayton said:

QUOTE=1gr8bldr;7179925]P.T. is generally not much more $

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Cheaper around here !! [/QUOTE]It is actually cheaper here where I live also. Thanks to Tucker lumber, the major PT supplier to NC, being 30 minutes away.

 

• Sep 5, 2012

• #13

lbzdually

Banned

after figuring it up, it would actually be cheaper to do concrete. At $100 a yard poured, I need 5 yards. Doing treated 2x6's or 8's, It would cost me right at $700 after buying Advantek to floor it.