2x4 or 2x6 framing? I can't decide....

OmenHonkey · Feb 25, 2015

I'm currently finishing up my final plans for hopefully the only house I will build on the our family farm. I am 40 Years old and will hopefully live in this home until I perish!! I have been involved with construction on and of throughout my life working and helping others as well as a complete DIY home remodel. I have always said that when I built my 1 and only home I would frame with 2x6 exterior walls for the added insulating factor to save with heating/cooling costs. I have read and read on this topic all over the internet. My fiancé also has construction background (her dad and brothers) she's built 2 homes for herself in the past and says it's not worth it. But, that I could do what I wanted without question. I am planning for the future with 36" doors downstairs everywhere and an open layout and using separate HVAC units for up and downstairs so when the kids leave I can cut the units off as needed and heat/cool less space. I have almost pulled all of my hair out weighing the difference and have really gotten nowhere. I realize with 2x6's the doors and windows are gonna be a pain but not undoable. In MN I read in most place 2x6 is code for insulating reasons. They have extreme cold and we have extreme heat. Any input from anyone with experience in this please chime in!!!!! Thank you in advance!!

Wild Turkey · Feb 25, 2015

I would spend the extra $ on infiltration wrap and quality insultation.
Also exterior sheathing.

rjcruiser · Feb 25, 2015

I'd save the money...go 2x4s and spend the difference on spray foam insulation and quality windows/doors.

OmenHonkey · Feb 25, 2015

rjcruiser said:
I'd save the money...go 2x4s and spend the difference on spray foam insulation and quality windows/doors.

This where it gets frustrating for me. I talked to a "Insulating contract/Energy adviser" he has all of these certificates and teaches classes on insulating and such. He tells me cellulose is far superior insulation than the spray foam and he sold his spray foam equipment years ago and does solely cellulose now. He also advised me to use 2x4, Cellulose, sheath the wall with OSB, and then use a 1" foam board with taped seams. well there goes the savings from not using the 2x6's when you purchase the 1" foam board. That stuff ain't cheap....

:smash:

JustUs4All · Feb 25, 2015

Congratulations on the project. I think your "Insulating contract/Energy adviser" knows what he is talking about.

Also install a door at the head or foot of the stairs so as to be able to completely shut off the upstairs from the down when you need to.
Build a spot for a good wood stove, even if you don't plan to use one now.
36" doors are good. Also allow room in master bed & bath for wheelchair access. And consider whether the entrance can be designed to make disability access easier to create if needed in the future.

OmenHonkey · Feb 25, 2015

JustUs4All said:
Congratulations on the project. I think your "Insulating contract/Energy adviser" knows what he is talking about.

Also install a door at the head or foot of the stairs so as to be able to completely shut off the upstairs from the down when you need to.
Build a spot for a good wood stove, even if you don't plan to use one now.
36" doors are good. Also allow room in master bed & bath for wheelchair access. And consider whether the entrance can be designed to make disability access easier to create if needed in the future.

Thank you for the comment!! I have carefully thought out all that you have mentioned. I have planned on a wood heater for the future but as you stated it will not be installed upon construction, I will add it later. I am really putting a lot of thought into this home and have for years honestly. It will have a wrap around porch also. I figured that when I get older if i'm in a wheelchair at least I will be able to enjoy the various views and seasons outdoors as much as possible....Again many thanks!

rjcruiser · Feb 25, 2015

OmenHonkey said:
This where it gets frustrating for me. I talked to a "Insulating contract/Energy adviser" he has all of these certificates and teaches classes on insulating and such. He tells me cellulose is far superior insulation than the spray foam and he sold his spray foam equipment years ago and does solely cellulose now. He also advised me to use 2x4, Cellulose, sheath the wall with OSB, and then use a 1" foam board with taped seams. well there goes the savings from not using the 2x6's when you purchase the 1" foam board. That stuff ain't cheap....

Well...there you go. Key to any insulation is being air tight. That is where spray foam excels. But, if you can tape off every seam and keep it taped off, you'll be good.

I'd rather spend on the 1" foam board than try and figure out how every door jam/window is going to set in a 6" stud.

Let me ask this...is it going to be 4 side brick?

Duff · Feb 25, 2015

OmenHonkey said:
This where it gets frustrating for me. I talked to a "Insulating contract/Energy adviser" he has all of these certificates and teaches classes on insulating and such. He tells me cellulose is far superior insulation than the spray foam and he sold his spray foam equipment years ago and does solely cellulose now. He also advised me to use 2x4, Cellulose, sheath the wall with OSB, and then use a 1" foam board with taped seams. well there goes the savings from not using the 2x6's when you purchase the 1" foam board. That stuff ain't cheap....

I agree with him as well. I don't know if I did everything right, but I have a good friend that is an insulation contractor and used his advice.
I used: 2x4 walls, osb, house wrap and hardi siding. cellulose insulation in every wall and ceiling. Including the garage and porch ceilings.
i have a 2000 sq ft home with 3 catherdal ceilings and 1 trey ceiling, lots and lots of windows as well.

I am total electric and my power bill averages around $150-$160 per month. That is not bad imo.

If it was me, I would not use the board and put the savings into high grade windows.

Good luck

OmenHonkey · Feb 25, 2015

rjcruiser said:
Well...there you go. Key to any insulation is being air tight. That is where spray foam excels. But, if you can tape off every seam and keep it taped off, you'll be good.

I'd rather spend on the 1" foam board than try and figure out how every door jam/window is going to set in a 6" stud.

Let me ask this...is it going to be 4 side brick?

No brick. It will be stained Hardy board. I want the look of wood siding. Brick is nice but not for me.

OmenHonkey · Feb 25, 2015

Duff said:
I agree with him as well. I don't know if I did everything right, but I have a good friend that is an insulation contractor and used his advice.
I used: 2x4 walls, osb, house wrap and hardi siding. cellulose insulation in every wall and ceiling. Including the garage and porch ceilings.
i have a 2000 sq ft home with 3 catherdal ceilings and 1 trey ceiling, lots and lots of windows as well.

I am total electric and my power bill averages around $150-$160 per month. That is not bad imo.

If it was me, I would not use the board and put the savings into high grade windows.

Good luck

Ok. My house is going to be 2750 Sq ft. with 1 cathedral ceiling and 9 ft. ceiling downstairs. The insulating contractor told me of a home he just did in South Ga, that was 7200 sq ft. with a light bill of 150.00 per month. After he said that, it was hard for me to believe much else of what he said. But, I guess anything is possible....I will be all electric as well.

:hair:

skiff23 · Feb 25, 2015

I like the spray foam . It seeks out the cracks and seals them. Cellulose is going to settle. 1 " of foam equals R 10. It is expensive but I would do it. A 2x4 with it will be plenty. If you deal with a good insulation contractor who knows , they can show you it is suppose to cut you HVAC tonnage in half. That is what has been sold to me on several jobs. I know when we go in an attic that has been sprayed , it is well worth it .

NE GA Pappy · Feb 25, 2015

I built my house 30 years ago and went with 2 x 6 walls. I have paper backed fiberglass insulation. When I was building my house, I cut 2x6 x 16ft down to stud length. It was actually a little cheaper than buying 2 x 4 studs. If I were building a new one today, it would be 2 x 6 with spray foam.

You have to special order the exterior doors and windows with the extended frames, but they are not that much more money.

Jim Baker · Feb 25, 2015

Built my home 30 years ago. Built with 2x6 on 24 centers so cost was the same. Don't know if you can do that now. But houses the same size as mine built with 2x4 exterior have power bills that run 20% above mine.

Here is something to consider. Insulation is the cheapest energy you can buy. Regardless of what you pay for it today it is not going up. Fuel/electricity on the other hand will be going up. What ever you do get the highest R rating you can. If you are going to be in your home 30 years plus I would go with the foam in insulation in the walls.

Another tip if you can get nat gas go with tankless water heaters.
Mine saves me $35 to $40 per month over electric tank heater.

Duff · Feb 25, 2015

OmenHonkey said:
Ok. My house is going to be 2750 Sq ft. with 1 cathedral ceiling and 9 ft. ceiling downstairs. The insulating contractor told me of a home he just did in South Ga, that was 7200 sq ft. with a light bill of 150.00 per month. After he said that, it was hard for me to believe much else of what he said. But, I guess anything is possible....I will be all electric as well.

Yea, I'm with you. I would have to see that to believe it. Even in the spring and fall.

I can tell my bill increased 25-30 bucks per month now that I have a 5 yr old in the house. I could really see 2-3 kids increasing a power bill. For one thing, my wife and I stay home more, more washing/drying clothes, more hot water used....... I can really tell a difference.

jonkayak · Feb 25, 2015

Aprox 5,000 sq' with fiberglass bats in the 2x4 walls. Cellulose in the ceiling. But before the Sheetrock was installed the insulator wanted to try something new. They lined all the walls with Reflectixs (spell? Reflective bubble wrap). Also we have 15 SEER variable speed heat pumps and out first full months bill was $170.00.

I wouldn't waste the money on 2x6 framing. If it had been in our budget I would have spray foamed it all or at least the attic. If air tight is the goal then spray foam is the only way to go. I think it's something like 70%of you energy is lost through the attic and very little through the walls. That's why we did fiberglass bats in the walls. Also don't forget to spend a few dollars upgrading the HVAC system to a higher SEER (not higher tonnage).

OmenHonkey · Feb 25, 2015

Thanks to everyone's input. Some have 2x6 some have 2x4. I guess it's just preference and builders that make the difference. I sincerely appreciate the input though. I should pick up the final plans today and he told me he could change 2x4 or 2x6 easily. So I just called and it's gonna be a 2x4. Structurally there is minimal difference. Financially going with 2x6 everything is going to cost more. Doors, windows, and insulation. I'll use 2x4, Spray foam, OSB, house wrap, DOW blue board 1" thick and then the siding. I got a PM from a fella that said he used cellulose and the dust in his house is terrible. And I never thought about it but in my remodeled house I used cellulose and the dust is awful in my house too. So spray foam it is.

Flash · Feb 25, 2015

Look at Doug Rye's video's on youtube.

gobbleinwoods · Feb 25, 2015

If you go with 2X4 and add the 1" foam you are going to have to deal with extended door and window frames. I built 5 years ago and chose the 2X6 and house wrap with fiberglass insulation. I have been pleased.

tree cutter 08 · Feb 25, 2015

I'm in the same boat. Our old house was 2x4 walls and fiberglass insulation. Always said if I build again it will be 2x6. Well here we go and I'm still back and forth. I'm leaning 2x4 with spray foam insulation everywhere. But insulation is the best money you can spend period in my opinion.

The Longhunter · Feb 25, 2015

Talk to someone about staggered 2 X 4 studs. You can get the same insulation value as 2 X 6 with less cost.

2x4 or 2x6 framing? I can't decide....

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