Question for knife makers

[John Cooper]

I took a puma whitetail hunter 2 in trade. Not really a fan of the grip on it as it's rubber or some such, but it will work for a utility type knife!

Enough ramblings, here is my question. The blade is stainless and has a lot of scratches from some sharpening impaired person. What is the best way to get these out?????

 

[Mr Bya Lungshot]

Polishing wheel on a bench grinder but you’ll need the buffing compound to make much of a difference.
They sell the wheel at Home Depot.

 

[John Cooper]

I will try and post a picture today. I looked and saw the wheels and compound, also youtube shows vids of starting with a course sandpaper and working to a super fine one.

 

[Mr Bya Lungshot]

Get two wheels supported side by side and you’ll be able to reuse them on all your knives forever. One wheel just doesn’t have width or strength to last past the first knife.
The wheels are the last stage of polish and less hand labor. Stainless is hard stuff to hand polish but depending on how deep the scratches are you might start with the sandpaper going finer and finer. You’ll be very happy in the end with those two soft polishing wheels and compound I promise. Don’t even try without loading them and keeping them loaded with plenty of compound.

 

[AceOfTheBase]

If you go the sandpaper route first, work fine or medium grit before trying coarse. The coarse could just add more damage and give yourself a bunch more work at the double-wide buffing wheels.
Also, you may want cutting compound (first) as well as polishing compound (last) for the wheels.

 

[Buck111]

I'd get and experienced knifemaker to restore it. If you don't work on knives, you can always make things worse.............

 

[Mr Bya Lungshot]

You can’t hurt a knife with a polishing wheel but you can hurt yourself if you don’t hang on to it tight.
Just lightly press against the two wheels and lots of compound. Forget the sandpaper and enjoy the shine.
Simple fast and easy as it gets.

 

[Anvil Head]

Buffing wheels and wire wheels are two of the most dangerous power tools in a shop. So be very careful if you are not experienced in working either. Both will take things away from you and throw them at high velocity in no particular direction. Takes lots of concentration and practice to get proficient with either. Recommend practicing getting a mirror finish on some old SS table ware or such first. Always, always, always wear eye protection.

Hand sanding will get you very close to shiny if done correctly. I agree with the above about not starting with a coarse grit unless it is absolutely necessary. Use a flushing agent as you sand - not oil, but windex or water with a solid stiff backing like micarta or hard rubber (soft backing will cause you too many problems). Thing to remember with hand sanding is that if you didn't get the scratches completely out with one grit - moving on to a finer grit is a waste of time. Be prepared to wast some sand paper, when it quits cutting no amount of pressure will make it cut more. Use quality paper. Change directions with each grit so you can see if any scratches remain and have good multi-directional lighting to spot all scratches - some can hide very well.

Keep in mind this and guard fitting are two of the least fun aspects of knifemaking for most of us custom makers......grunt work!