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  #1  
Old 04-11-2012, 11:14 AM
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Default A 1911 failure to feed tip.

"Tuning" the 1911 extractor.

I was going to send it to a smith that really knows his stuff. It was going to cost me at least $100 and he probably would have done what I did to the extractor groove and sent it back to me. If you guys have never done this it is very easy. It takes more work & time to remove and put the extractor back together then grind and polish the groove. It allows the shell to align easier & faster in the extractor which makes the shell align perfectly with the chamber when the slide goes to battery.

Here is some reading to help:

http://blog.wilsoncombat.com/caliber...y-bill-wilson/

Here is a drawing that I did. It isn't very good, but I hope you get the idea. (?)

Bottom picture is the jam.

Also the grind stone used in my Dremel. I was very careful not to touch the vertical sides of the groove while grinding.

gt40

PS: If you have questions please ask.
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Last edited by GT-40 GUY; 04-11-2012 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:17 PM
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many good aftermarket extractors today already have the cuts and bevels and only need a bit of polishing..Brown and Wilson come to mind


extractor tension is the other half of the equation..

Brownells has the right tools for that piece.
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:28 PM
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I think your feeding issue lies here, not in the extractor.
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiskey_33 View Post
I think your feeding issue lies here, not in the extractor.
If that is the issue what should I do to the thousands of cases.

gt40
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Old 04-25-2012, 07:07 PM
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If you make those mods to the "Ejector" as your drawing indicates, you may well have problems.




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Old 04-25-2012, 08:41 PM
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Polish the feed ramp, then it will feed anything. I had a Thompson 1911A1 that I had to break in brand new once. A good gunsmith will do a nice job polishing the feed ramp. Right out of the box I had a lot of work to do on it and the feed ramp was one thing as I had failure to feed. The extractor worked great so I didn't mess with that or the ejector. I had to tight fit a barrel bushing and barrel lug. I also added a recoil spring buffer kit that had a new slightly lighter spring. Working and wearing in the slide with the frame was the big pain. Once all that was done it shot sweet with anything I fed it, Ball, HP, and SWCs. I shot it a lot so for practice I shot a lot of 185 gr. hard-cast SWC reloads.
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Old 04-26-2012, 05:46 PM
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honestly the feed ramp is the last thing to look at on a 1911 on feed issues

magazines and extractors are 1st on the list of most common problems

the actual feeding of the round onto the extractor's hook is the issue there..extraction is the 2nd thing it does



following that can be the barrel setback away from the feed ramp


yes polishing the feed ramp can help but not the most common issue.


Afraid to say I've seen many 1911 messed up by improper "polishing" of the feed ramp. so be careful and stay way from Dremels
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Old 01-01-2015, 07:04 PM
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qqq
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Old 01-01-2015, 07:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT-40 GUY View Post
"Tuning" the 1911 extractor.

I was going to send it to a smith that really knows his stuff. It was going to cost me at least $100 and he probably would have done what I did to the extractor groove and sent it back to me. If you guys have never done this it is very easy. It takes more work & time to remove and put the extractor back together then grind and polish the groove. It allows the shell to align easier & faster in the extractor which makes the shell align perfectly with the chamber when the slide goes to battery.

Here is some reading to help:

http://blog.wilsoncombat.com/caliber...y-bill-wilson/

Here is a drawing that I did. It isn't very good, but I hope you get the idea. (?)

Bottom picture is the jam.

Also the grind stone used in my Dremel. I was very careful not to touch the vertical sides of the groove while grinding.

gt40

PS: If you have questions please ask.
Interesting read. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 01-01-2015, 10:11 PM
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Good tip!

It'll assist chambering on any semi-auto that slides the case head up the breech face. A square needle file will usually be enough to break the corner, and take no more than needed.

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Old 02-16-2015, 07:08 AM
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Change your recoil spring. They're supposed to be changed every 2500 rounds. My custom LA Vickers Colt 70 series was doing the same thing. If you put in a new, Wilson Combat 18.5# spring it should feed like a champ.
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Old 02-24-2015, 06:08 PM
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GT40, look, I'm in no way an expert 1911 guy. But if you reload, try seating your bullets a little deeper from the max overall length. Well, it worked for me.

After finding this out, I got some new mags. And I didn't need to seat the bullets deeper, because the new mags worked better than the ones that came with the gun.
You could try these couple of things.
Nice drawing. The grind looks as tough it would weaken the extractor to me.
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Old 02-24-2015, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBM View Post
Polish the feed ramp, then it will feed anything. I had a Thompson 1911A1 that I had to break in brand new once. A good gunsmith will do a nice job polishing the feed ramp. Right out of the box I had a lot of work to do on it and the feed ramp was one thing as I had failure to feed. The extractor worked great so I didn't mess with that or the ejector. I had to tight fit a barrel bushing and barrel lug. I also added a recoil spring buffer kit that had a new slightly lighter spring. Working and wearing in the slide with the frame was the big pain. Once all that was done it shot sweet with anything I fed it, Ball, HP, and SWCs. I shot it a lot so for practice I shot a lot of 185 gr. hard-cast SWC reloads.
------------- This poster is right on the ball
only 3 tings will cause you issue
1 - the recoil spring if too tight
2 - the ammo lacks the power to get the slide back faster and harder to move the next round up
3- the ramp is not polished enough to let the round slide up the ramp

Actually all the above are adjustments you can do yourself but for $100 is a good price for a professional job and alot less agravation
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Old 02-24-2015, 08:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgc View Post
Nice drawing. The grind looks as tough it would weaken the extractor to me.
All you're doing is putting a radius on the edge of extractor, where the case rim slides into the 'hook'--instead of having the case rim contact a square steel edge.

The typical extractor lets a round brass edge (case rim) rise up against a square-edged steel hook, with that round brass edge pushing the extractor laterally until the case runs out of 'push' (or the 'push' to chamber the round ceases).

The 'improved' extractor presents a rounded face to the case rim, and the collision will tend to act more like two rollers impacting. Add in the relative hardness difference, too- you can see small gouges in fired cases, where the steel extractor bit the brass, before camming out of the way.

It probably does weaken the hook in some respect, but I'd opine* it's not of any significance. The bending stress on the extractor hits further back, well clear of the actual claw.


*Offered free of charge, and worth every penny
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Old 02-25-2015, 12:50 PM
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extractor will be fine with those mods... Wilson put out the 1st specs on doing this and they might know something about 1911s....


http://www.m1911.org/technic2.htm
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  #16  
Old 02-26-2015, 07:12 PM
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After I did this mod to my extractor I don't even need the feed ramp any more. The bullets pop right up parallel to the chamber and as the slide goes to battery the bullet goes straight into the chamber. NO MORE FTF.

In the bottom picture you can see that the bullet is trying to slide up the ramp before the case rim has entered the extractor claw to allow the bullet to get parallel to the chamber before the slide goes to battery. After the mod. is completed the case and the whole bullet goes up at the same time which keeps everything lined up with the chamber.

gt40
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