Many Lowe's carry submersible pumps, and casings.
It ain't rocket surgury, just a lot of pipe with about 30 lbs hanging off the end.
I've replaced my 160ft pump solo, but it's easier with a couple extra bodies.
You can replace with schedule 40 pipe, 1" PEX or repair the section split by the strike.
May sound complicated; it's really all grunt work till the wiring:
At top of casing should be a metal two piece object that clamps onto the pump pipe, and a grommet that the wiring runs through.
Remove all pipe fittings outside the clamp, leaving a section of pipe above the clamp, or just cut loose the pipe from the rest of the system if it's plumbed in close.
Disconnect wiring going into grommet, do NOT remove from clamp.
Once everything is disconnected from outside clamp, pull and twist to unseat the clamp from the casing.
Commence hand over hand lifting until pump clears casing. (this is where many hands helps, the pipe will go straight up for awhile, then bend under it's own weight and contact the ground. Helpers will help guide it and make it easier on ya.)
Once removed, lay the whole thing out where you can eyeball the pipe and look for cracks or fractures and repair or replace as necessary.
The pump has a female thread socket to accept the pipe, and wiring coming from the pump to the pressure switch. Typically there is a waterproof splice made within 3 ft of pump.
Once you feel you have a viable pipe assembly, have threaded the new pump on and made connections, drop that rascal back in da hole.
I use a nylon or poly rope if I don't have 8 or more hours to spare for glue to cure to take the weight of the pump off the pipe. (Rope can stay in the hole, it's inert and won't have any affect on taste or quality of water.)
Reset the clamp, connect the wiring to the new switch, and re-connect the pipe to your pressure tank.
Wait appropriate time for glue to cure and power up.
It ain't rocket surgury, just a lot of pipe with about 30 lbs hanging off the end.
I've replaced my 160ft pump solo, but it's easier with a couple extra bodies.
You can replace with schedule 40 pipe, 1" PEX or repair the section split by the strike.
May sound complicated; it's really all grunt work till the wiring:
At top of casing should be a metal two piece object that clamps onto the pump pipe, and a grommet that the wiring runs through.
Remove all pipe fittings outside the clamp, leaving a section of pipe above the clamp, or just cut loose the pipe from the rest of the system if it's plumbed in close.
Disconnect wiring going into grommet, do NOT remove from clamp.
Once everything is disconnected from outside clamp, pull and twist to unseat the clamp from the casing.
Commence hand over hand lifting until pump clears casing. (this is where many hands helps, the pipe will go straight up for awhile, then bend under it's own weight and contact the ground. Helpers will help guide it and make it easier on ya.)
Once removed, lay the whole thing out where you can eyeball the pipe and look for cracks or fractures and repair or replace as necessary.
The pump has a female thread socket to accept the pipe, and wiring coming from the pump to the pressure switch. Typically there is a waterproof splice made within 3 ft of pump.
Once you feel you have a viable pipe assembly, have threaded the new pump on and made connections, drop that rascal back in da hole.
I use a nylon or poly rope if I don't have 8 or more hours to spare for glue to cure to take the weight of the pump off the pipe. (Rope can stay in the hole, it's inert and won't have any affect on taste or quality of water.)
Reset the clamp, connect the wiring to the new switch, and re-connect the pipe to your pressure tank.
Wait appropriate time for glue to cure and power up.