Small hunting vehicle

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
I can't tell where this noise is coming from. I don't know how he, the seller, was able to hide this noise. It is plain to hear however was not present at the time of the sale. It purred like a kitten when we bought it. Trailered it home and once off the trailer, the noise was there. Enough so that anyone, and I mean anyone, not someone intentionally listening, but even my wife, any novice who does not care, standing around will hear it and wonder what it is. We thought it may go away once warm because we could not imagine how it was good at the purchase and bad once home.... How did he do this.... what trick/scam did he pull. We would not have bought it with this sound. It may run another 100k with the sound, it may not. But a 2k vehicle is not worth going into the motor doing exploratory surgery. I think I have learned my lesson about buying out of town vehicles. If it were not for that noise, I'd be happy because it should do what we intended it to do. My issue is knowing he intentionally rigged something to fool us. This leads me to believe that it could be bad.
Once thoroughly warm, it has almost gone away. I would have to point the noise out for you to hear it. This makes me feel better since he likely made no attempt to camo the noise. It must get quiet after warming up
 

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
Consider posting up a short video? Also, don't despair, I doubt the seller could do anything much to cover this noise. It may just be that it gets quieter with the warm engine.

Is it a light ticking noise? A squealing, or rattling noise? Sometimes the timing belt tensioners fail, and cause a metallic sort of rotating rattle. These are interference engines, so don't let the timing belt fail.
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/184001-Gen-III-Tinny-sound-on-cold-start

I'd also search that forum for related information. Also, which engine is in your truck? 6G72 on the ID plate under the hood is the 3.0L, 6G74 is the 3.5L.

There could be several external causes that don't have anything to do with the internal engine. Use an automotive stethoscope or the old time wooden dowel rod to the ear (with extreme care!) to isolate the sound.

Serpentine belt tensioner, idler pulley, alternator, A/C belt tensioner, all have been noisy on our trucks.

It's a used truck at a low price, you'll have a few things to tackle, it just takes time to chase it down and get to know it.
I'll check motor size tomorrow. It has 4l,4h and AWD. Is there a trick to get it to 4h disengage easier?
 

normaldave

GON Weatherman
My Sport is 2WD, but on my Montero 4WD, you simply let off the gas, then shift out of 4H while coasting in drive, then the 4wd dash lights should flicker a time or two then go out, showing disengage.

Think you'll need to be in neutral and stopped before shifting into and out of 4L. (and maybe 4H too...)

Keep in mind, on your truck, 4H and 4L have the benefit of having the center differential locked, unlike lots of other 4WD vehicles, so engine power is equally applied to all 4 wheels, and best used in off road conditions.

Front differential is an open carrier, rear could be open, but on an LS Sport, like yours appears, it likely has a limited slip. On wet roads, icy, etc. AWD is best since the center differential is unlocked and wheels can then turn at different independent speeds without too much issue, also decent on pavement of course.

On the service side, register here with an email address, enter your VIN, and you can get the original build sheet for your truck and a service history of most all of your truck's Mitsubishi dealer service visits.
https://www.mitsubishicars.com/owners/login
 
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1gr8bldr

Senior Member
Once thoroughly warm, it has almost gone away. I would have to point the noise out for you to hear it. This makes me feel better since he likely made no attempt to camo the noise. It must get quiet after warming up
Son came in from out playing around with "Monte" in the back field. Said noise is gone. So apparently it it just needs to be warmed up, good, to go away. Still an issue, I realize, but at least it does not do it all the time
 

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
My Sport is 2WD, but on my Montero 4WD, you simply let off the gas, then shift out of 4H while coasting in drive, then the 4wd dash lights should flicker a time or two then go out, showing disengage.

Think you'll need to be in neutral and stopped before shifting into and out of 4L. (and maybe 4H too...)

Keep in mind, on your truck, 4H and 4L have the benefit of having the center differential locked, unlike lots of other 4WD vehicles, so engine power is equally applied to all 4 wheels, and best used in off road conditions.

Front differential is an open carrier, rear could be open, but on an LS Sport, like yours appears, it likely has a limited slip. On wet roads, icy, etc. AWD is best since the center differential is unlocked and wheels can then turn at different independent speeds without too much issue, also decent on pavement of course.

On the service side, register here with an email address, enter your VIN, and you can get the original build sheet for your truck and a service history of most all of your truck's Mitsubishi dealer service visits.
https://www.mitsubishicars.com/owners/login
We were stopping on level ground, neutral and then changing. However, it was slow to come out, like many 4x4s I have had. My current truck comes right out. Got me spoiled.
 

normaldave

GON Weatherman
That truck may not have been in 4WD for a long time, they need to be exercised a fair amount, the solenoids and switches get sluggish.

Here's a build thread on a similar Montero for ideas, careful, this grocery getter 4WD SUV you just got will grow on you pretty quick, once you figure out how capable it really is.
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/164045-Outdooraholic-s-Montero-Sport-Adventure-Build-thread/page3

Decided to include my comments regarding the full sized Montero, this thread is about the 2001 and up full sized, but several of the traits and features apply to the Montero Sport as well. I predict y'all will come to a similar conclusion after getting your truck sorted out. It won't win a popularity contest, but more often than not, it will win the day.
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/166001-So-is-the-gen-III-really-that-good?p=2207399#post2207399
 

OmenHonkey

I Want Fancy Words TOO !
Search craigslist daily for Geo tracker, you can find them in your price range.

That's what I had for a few years. 4x4 with plenty of power to do what I needed. I even made a hitch and put a rack on the back. I nicknamed it "The Barbie Jeep" lol.
 

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
Question, Is the transmission fluid for the Montero really Mitsubishi specific or is there a generic? LOL, my son was going to change his oil. I decided to sit this one out so he would learn not to depend on me. He removed the trans drain plug rather than the oil. Strange, he said that only about 2 quarts came out?????
 

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
Question, Is the transmission fluid for the Montero really Mitsubishi specific or is there a generic? LOL, my son was going to change his oil. I decided to sit this one out so he would learn not to depend on me. He removed the trans drain plug rather than the oil. Strange, he said that only about 2 quarts came out?????
I usually let someone else do my transmission stuff. So I don't know much. However after researching, it looks like you drain it at the radiator hose. He pulled the drain plug which only drained about 2 of the 10 quarts. so ...thinking we will top it off through the dip stick. And maybe later take it somewhere
 

normaldave

GON Weatherman
If you want to change the trans fluid, do it this way, using only Mitsu SP-III trans fluid. You can also go by the Hyundai or Kia dealer and get their SP-III spec fluid as well. Don't use anything else no matter what the label claim is.
https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=15879

Edit: this trans flush instruction is for the full sized Montero, but the principle is the same. Right hand side cooling line at the bottom of the radiator is the flex line which will pump out fluid. You basically want to pump out enough to flush all old fluid out of trans, converter, and cooler. Mark a bucket at 10 quarts, and flush enough using the above instructions to safely flush fluid out to that level. When you're done, you have all new fluid in the trans. Some will do it without a filter change, I'll change the filter at least once, then flush fluid only on future changes unless it gets to looking rough.

Get your son reading this forum, and the Australian one too. It will save lots of headaches.
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/forums/94-Mitsubishi

He'll have to remove the rear splash pan to get to the oil drain plug and filter, 6 bolts 12 mm.
 
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