poolecw
Senior Member
The lock is more important than the safe. You're looking for a Sargent and Greenleaf type 2 combination lock. Beyond this, it comes down to the thickness and hardness of the steel, along with extra security features.
Most companies make lots of safes at lots of price points, so the name on the front means little. I look for the features described above and compare prices among the various offerings. Then I hire a locksmith to tweak the settings in the back of the lock while I change the combo. Very few electronic locks in this price range offer the security and longevity of the S&G type 2.
I would have to disagree to your comment that the lock is more important than the safe. The number one method that crooks use to get into safes is by hacking through the wall of the safe. Your run of the mill dope head isn't going to get into a safe by cracking the combination like some cat burgler going after the Hope diamond. he is going to go to your garage and get your axe and then proceed to use it to get into your safe. The second most common method a normal crook is going to use is to pry the door open. The number of bolts in the door has nothing to do with his ability to pry open the door. There's a lot of myths and lies that safe manufacturers use to sell you a safe. Key take way here is to get a safe with at least a 9 gauge wall and a 1/4" steel plated door.
Don't forget fire protection too. Since safe manufacturers do their own testing, they will fool you with their stated results. "Four layers of fireboard" doesn't mean jack. don't rely on the quantities of layers to make the sale.
I've been researching safes for six months now. Here is my top three choices so far:
1. AMSEC- Best fire protection (uses concrete poured walls instead of fireboard)..Look at their BF line of safes.
2. Sturdy- Built like a tank using very heavy guage steel. There are several upgrade options (more metal, more steel)
3. Steelwater (chinese made but has great specs for the price)