bait tank question

What do too much salt in a tank do? Also, how do you know if your pump is to powerful?

I use a handful per 20gal. Never have had any issues.

As for pumps, I'm using a Rule360 which is a tad too much for my 25gal set up but is working out. It is generally the goto pump for most applications. You want good flow that your bait can swim in and not be blown around too hard. Venturi is key for air and a must have.

EClass said:

I use a handful per 20gal. Never have had any issues.

As for pumps, I'm using a Rule360 which is a tad too much for my 25gal set up but is working out. It is generally the goto pump for most applications. You want good flow that your bait can swim in and not be blown around too hard. Venturi is key for air and a must have.

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Along with ice to keep the temp down. If your venturi is bringing in atmosphere air, which it should be, then it's bringing warm air with it in the summer. That warm water won't hold as much DO.

Carry a ton of the Reddi Ice from the convenience store with you while you're out, and one red solo cup of salt should do the trick for 20 gallons.

There should be enough current to swim in, but not so much that they get worn out just keeping place. If you're using a venturi you can adjust the intake nipple to allow more air in to decrease water flow, or less air to create more water pressure.

Good info here. 500 gph is a good start.

WATER: Fill your bait tank with the water where you will catch or buy your bait if possible. If your local shop where you buy your bait will allow you to fill your bait tank with the water their bait is kept in do so. If catching your own bait, fill the bait tank with water in the area where the catch will be made. Both provide the bait with water they are accustomed to and will not shock them with different water qualities, temperature, etc. If filling your tank from home be aware that “city water” contains chlorine which will kill your bait and a chlorine eliminator must be used. Prior to adding the bait, one (1) cup of non-iodized salt per ten (10) gallons is recommended for most freshwater bait. This helps to reduce scale loss as well as slime coat loss, which protect the bait. You may also at this time add one (1) cap full of hydrogen peroxide per ten (10) gallons. This can increase the amount of dissolved oxygen in the water with proper aeration as much as fifty (50) percent. Once you have or have not added these items to your bait tank’s water turn on the bait tank’s pump and allow the water to circulate and aerate the water until the salt is dissolved. Then add bait.

What Eric and SH said also. Everybody is a little different.

I like using water from the hose and treat it. Never know what the water is going to look like when getting to your bait hole.

One note, I wouldn't use a defoaming agent. Some guys swear by it, but it hides an issue that can kill your bait. If you're getting foam your bait is stressed and you need to fix it. Either more air, or cooler water, less current. Foam will keep the water from exchanging air waste products with the atmosphere, in addition to indicating stress.

Keep 'em cool, keep 'em oxygenated, and keep 'em moving at the right speed and you shouldn't have any issues.

Smaller bubbles equals more DO than large bubbles

StripeRR HunteRR said:

One note, I wouldn't use a defoaming agent. Some guys swear by it, but it hides an issue that can kill your bait. If you're getting foam your bait is stressed and you need to fix it. Either more air, or cooler water, less current. Foam will keep the water from exchanging air waste products with the atmosphere, in addition to indicating stress.

Keep 'em cool, keep 'em oxygenated, and keep 'em moving at the right speed and you shouldn't have any issues.

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A potato chip or cheeto will get rid of bubbles cheaper than foam off.

Msteele said:

A potato chip or cheeto will get rid of bubbles cheaper than foam off.

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True. I was including that in "defoaming agent."

Foam points to a water/bait problem and masking it just hides it, and could kill the bait, is all I was saying.

Surface agitation is key. All a venturi does is accomplish surface agitation with bubbles, it does not inject or otherwise add oxygen straight to the water. You can get the same affect by pointing the pump output at an angle toward the surface to get it churning.

1 cup per 10g of water. That is what closely equals the natural salt content of most freshwater fishes slime coat. Somewhere in my computer i have an article from (i think the University of KY) regarding fish transport that details that info and what else helps; but i am too lazy to search for it. You can probably do a google search and find it for yourself.

Go to the Soup

and get you some souper shad, don't change the water!!
It's all about the bacteria boys. The soup has forgot more about shad than you will ever need to know!!
Salt, coffee creamer, Cheetos, , get some souper shad for crying out loud!

Soup shad is $ 8.00 + dozen btw.

If you have time to kill and want to net your own fresh bait its fun... and if not....soup prices are cheap cheap cheap.

My 2 cents.

I only catch herring here and I have a 40 gallon tank and I use a quart of salt. If you have well water and fill your tank at home you need to run your pump all night to oxygenate the water. I was losing bait and thought it was temp difference but the guy where I get bait told me about the water and I've been good since. And as far as salt don't spend your money on rock salt. I used it for years and it worked great but left junk in the bottom of my tank. I switched to stock salt from tractor supply a few years ago and have never had a problem. It's only 7 bucks for 50lb so the price is great.