Best gun paint

2) paint smells like paint.
All my deer rifles including my AR-15 were painted with krylon. Never had the first deer spooked. The smell goes away pretty quick after painting.
3) most paint doesn't like heat.
I have ran hundreds of rounds out of an AR to the point the barrel was way to hot to touch and the only adverse effect on the paint was it turning to a different shade.
4) most moving parts on firearms don't like paint.
Simple, put a little blue painters tape over the bolt and any other parts that move also stop up the end of the barrel so you don't get paint down the tube.
5) paint will in all likelihood devalue your firearm.
Krylon is easily removed without a trace left with brake cleaner, carb cleaner, or goof off
6) bluing is easy and rewarding (may also devalue your firearm but not like paint)
Painting is rewarding too. It gives you the ability to be creative. If you mess up, you can easily strip it down and start again. Plus a coat of paint keeps your rifle from rusting and helps protect the finish from getting scratched.

I've been using KG Gunkote for a couple years. Makes for a good looking finish but it's kinda complicated as you have to blast the metal and then bake the finish. Tough as nails though...

https://www.kgcoatings.com/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=26

DYI hunting said:

2) paint smells like paint.
All my deer rifles including my AR-15 were painted with krylon. Never had the first deer spooked. The smell goes away pretty quick after painting.
3) most paint doesn't like heat.
I have ran hundreds of rounds out of an AR to the point the barrel was way to hot to touch and the only adverse effect on the paint was it turning to a different shade.
4) most moving parts on firearms don't like paint.
Simple, put a little blue painters tape over the bolt and any other parts that move also stop up the end of the barrel so you don't get paint down the tube.
5) paint will in all likelihood devalue your firearm.
Krylon is easily removed without a trace left with brake cleaner, carb cleaner, or goof off
6) bluing is easy and rewarding (may also devalue your firearm but not like paint)
Painting is rewarding too. It gives you the ability to be creative. If you mess up, you can easily strip it down and start again. Plus a coat of paint keeps your rifle from rusting and helps protect the finish from getting scratched.

Click to expand...

I want to do my Rem 715 bolt like the one on the bottom pic there. I pm'd for some advice.

bighonkinjeep said:

1) paint is not a very durable finish.
Define durable. I beat the heck out of my painted weapons. Will the Krylon I use show some wear? YES! Then again so does the Ed Brown 1911 I carry every day. It is a tool. A little wear won't hurt anything and the paint is easily touched up for the people more worried about appearance. The paint (yes, even Krylon) does help protect the base firearm.
2) paint smells like paint.
Um, I'm guessing you've never painted a firearm with Krylon, Duracoat, etc.??
3) most paint doesn't like heat.
That is actually why I don't paint the suppressors on my machine guns. I'd be re-painting them twice a month. But the guns themselves do just great! Barrels can also burn off paint under hard use. Even so, the paint has not burned off my bolt-action that I actually put a LOT of rounds through or the three painted machine guns I frequently use. I've gotten those guns so hot you couldn't touch the forend and the paint is still there. So, yeah heat might hurt some paint but it does take a lot. If so - touch it up!
4) most moving parts on firearms don't like paint.
??? Like what? I don't paint the bolts of my ARs. I did paint the exposed part of the closed bolt on my Rem 700 and it causes NO problems. What other moving parts are a worry?
5) paint will in all likelihood devalue your firearm.
That is pure opinion. It depends on the quality of the paint job to me.
6) bluing is easy and rewarding (may also devalue your firearm but not like paint)
Again, your opinion. It depends on the quality of the bluing job. I've seen a LOT of botched home jobs. I'd take a quality paint job over some low quality bluing.

I wish I had before and after pics of a couple I bought really cheap that were painted. Don't get me wrong paint can be used properly on synthetic stocks etc. But there are much better finishes available for metal.
It's yours do what you will but fixing a boogered up blue job is very easy.
My.02 BHJ

Click to expand...

Most of this boils down to opinion. Some guys don't like painted guns. Nothing wrong with that opinion.

VHinch said:

You can if you send it off and have it done. Or you can do it yourself for about $20/weapon.

Click to expand...

How about a "how to" thread so those of us that are interested kind of know whats involved.

I won't buy a painted gun, I always wonder what someone tried to cover up.

How to:

Go to BPS, Buy a camo gun sock from hunters specialties, Cut holes in the right places with scissors. Dissapear in the woods.
Also buy Hoppes gun blue kit, refinish rifle properly cause BHJ said so


Camo painted synthetic stocks are OK

will hunt 4 food said:

How about a "how to" thread so those of us that are interested kind of know whats involved.

Click to expand...

Ask and you shall receive-

Disassemble - On a semi-auto I usually detail strip, on a revolver I just remove the cylinder and crane, but remember to replace the sideplate screw.

On a revolver, plug both ends of the barrel and both ends of all cylinders - the cheap yellow disposable earplugs work great for this.

Tape off any parts you don't want sprayed - On a semi-auto I don't do the internals, slide rails, etc. On a revolver I usually don't do the hammer and trigger.

Thoroughly degrease and let dry.

Sand blast with 80 grit aluminum oxide. You can substitute scuffing the surface with a scotch brite pad, but it doesn't do as good of a job.

Duracoat. Follow all the directions and take your time. I find that applying a very light coat, allowing the solvents to flash off, then another light coat gives the best results.

Allow to cure 24 hours at minimum before reassembling. I usually wait 2 or 3 days. Wait another 2 weeks before any serious use.

Clean thoroughly to get all the crap out from the sand blasting. It gets everywhere.

Use the same process with my boat I've used on my guns for years.
1. Clean weapon well
2. Lightly steel wool areas to be painted
3. wipe everything down several times with clear
rubbing alcohol
4. let dry thoroughly
5. Paint with flat Krylon or similar spray paint using
stencils, usually the more layers the better it looks

but then Walters killed two monster deer this year with shinny stainless scope and barrel on his pea shooter

What do I know?

awesome!!

Been thinking about ditching the spray cans and stencils though and getting a decent hobby spray system. But figure it might be a bit pricey to start and have not research the type of paint I should use and the cost effectiveness. Any suggestions?

Will have to try the flat clear coat as I have noticed that flat spray paint, while its color wears great the surface gets buffed with heavy use and can get shinny.