Replacing siding with HardiBoard type product

Our house has the masonite type siding and it's really started to show it's age. Paint doesn't hide all the problems.

1600 sq. feet, two story, typical tract house.

How much to replace with cement siding product?

Anywhere between $15K- $35K, depending on site conditions, framing conditions and how old the sheathing and what type of sheathing was used.

Not answering your specific question...but just a suggestion. Go ahead and replace the soffit, fascia, and edge boards with HardiPlank while you are at it. A little more expensive but worth it in the long run.

jesnic said:

Anywhere between $15K- $35K, depending on site conditions, framing conditions and how old the sheathing and what type of sheathing was used.

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Thanks. We need to do something, but that makes it a really questionable investment.

It's LP siding - why I thought we should replace it before selling.

DannyW said:

Not answering your specific question...but just a suggestion. Go ahead and replace the soffit, fascia, and edge boards with HardiPlank while you are at it. A little more expensive but worth it in the long run.

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This^^^^^^^

The siding on the house I'm in now is Hardie board and I'm not a fan. The stuff expands and shrinks too much. I've bought several types of expensive caulks that are supposed to expand but they crack too sooner or later. I think if I had a choice I'd go with some thick, good quality vinyl.....but I've never had vinyl either.

JohnK said:

The siding on the house I'm in now is Hardie board and I'm not a fan. The stuff expands and shrinks too much. I've bought several types of expensive caulks that are supposed to expand but they crack too sooner or later. I think if I had a choice I'd go with some thick, good quality vinyl.....but I've never had vinyl either.

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Are all the joints caulked?

yep

It will run you in the. Neighborhood of $250 per square(10'x10'). Rotted framing or sheathing will cost more and there's no way to estimate that until you pull the siding off. If your soffits aren't rotted I wouldn't spend the money if your selling. Just repaint

JohnK said:

yep

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Hardie doesn't recommend caulking the field joints only the edge joints.

I haven't found

or seen anything that is 100% perfect for siding other than brick. Of the other alternatives I still think HP is the best alternative. Holds paint great - easy to put up - tough to light impacts - easy to make replacement repairs - looks very nice etc. Try matching weathered siding if some sort of damage occurs and to me it looks cheap from the day it's installed.

Do it yourself. I replaced all the LP siding on my house myself - just wasn't that hard to do and I did it mostly by myself over about 2-3 weeks in sections at a time. I ended up renting scaffolding for the high stuff and it sure would have been faster with a helper but there are tools to help you if you want to do it one man style that do work. I bought a sheer to cut mine but really there are good blades out there now for your skill saw that work great and are a lot faster than the sheers. Be sure to get a really good quality finish gun for the 3/4 inch corner pieces (Hitachi worked for me) and a good coil siding gun for the field and have at it. Oh - and I have sheers for sale if you're interested. They aint much good for anything else I've found.

Crakajak said:

Hardie doesn't recommend caulking the field joints only the edge joints.

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If you don't caulk the field joint water will get in.

I just had mine finished. 1700sq ft house. Hardi board siding, 5 windows, 2 doors+ storm doors and a set of french doors. It was around 30k. The doors and windows were very high quality and more than Home Depot type stuff. 2 coats of Paint and gutters included. I had a carport and concrete added also but that was extra. I can send you the info to get a quote if interested. I got 3 quotes and they were all within around a $1k from each other. This company had done work for me before and I was pleased.

mguthrie said:

If you don't caulk the field joint water will get in.

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They recommend a flashing behind the joint overlapping onto the lower pc. of siding. Caulk for the outside edges.

Here is a link:https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...z5-us-en.pdf&usg=AOvVaw2oPaWwd5dlK8wcFG1yEX8i

-- If you are selling your home, repair and repaint. You likely will NOT get your money back.

If it was a ranch level, you could do yourself it you are handy. I don't touch two story, too high up.

Crakajak said:

They recommend a flashing behind the joint overlapping onto the lower pc. of siding. Caulk for the outside edges.

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Yes.

mguthrie said:

If you don't caulk the field joint water will get in.

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Negative. They are very specific about the flashing behind the joint overlap.

Crakajak said:

Hardie doesn't recommend caulking the field joints only the edge joints.

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Correct.

mguthrie said:

It will run you in the. Neighborhood of $250 per square(10'x10'). Rotted framing or sheathing will cost more and there's no way to estimate that until you pull the siding off. If your soffits aren't rotted I wouldn't spend the money if your selling. Just repaint

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$250 per sq? I don't believe that is accurate materials/labor cost.