HossBog
Senior Member
"We want more, we want more, it's good, so we want more!". Pics and story, that is!
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Lever Gun Project
- Thread starter hayseed_theology
- Start date
hayseed_theology
Senior Member
Update 10/20/13
I got a good bit done on the gun this week.
I started by using the Birchwood Casey Stock and Sheen Conditioner. I'd like to get some of the fff rubbing compound from Brownell's that Sharps40 suggested, but after buying the scope, my budget is super tight. So, I used what I had on hand. It worked to knock of some of the shine. I used 3 coats of it. The stock looks satisfactory. It is not perfect, but it definitely looks better than it did.
I touched up the blueing with Oxpho Blue. Cold blue is not the answer. However, right now, I don't have the setup for hot or slow rust blue. Cold blue does not offer satisfactory results, but it is my only option right now. Gun oil and 0000 steel wool removed the rust pretty well. I cleaned all the excess oil off. I applied the Oxpho Blue with applicators from Tandy Leather. You can also you cotton balls. For the cold blue, poke a hole in the foil top and squirt it into a small cup. You don't want to dip a used applicator back in the cold blue bottle. I used small amounts at a time to do a small section and changed the applicator frequently. You apply it, let it sit for a minute, then rub it in with 0000 steel wool. According to the manufacturer, Oxpho Blue is designed to work with the factory finish. I used 3 to 5 applications on each part.
As I expected, certain parts took the cold blue well. Others not so well. You can see that in the pic. The crown came out well. The notch in the barrel and the magazine came out well. In fact, in the pic of the notch on the magazine, it is hard to tell which is factory and which is mine. The bottom metal plate was almost in the white after I got all the rust off. It came out very well. Much to my surprise, the enlarged barrel band did not take the cold blue hardly at all. I couldn't believe how poorly it performed on that spot. You can see in the pic that the lever didn't take it well either - it just turned a dull gray. On the receiver and barrel, the cold blue covered problem spots well, but it is a slightly lighter color than the factory blue. This gives it somewhat of a splotchy appearance. That was expected. Eventually, when I have the equipment, I would like to reblue the entire gun.
I let everything sit for a couple days with a good coat of oil. Wiped off the excess and reassembled. Reassembly went well. After a few months, it was kinda tricky remembering which screws went where, but I got it figured out. After I got it reassembled, everything seemed to work well, but I could not get the hammer to go all the way to the firing pin. After a minute, I realized the safety was on! Haha. Everything works great. Action is smoother but still very tight. I had installed a Wild West Bear Proof Ejector a while back, and that seems to make the action very stiff. The trigger feels great! Man, what an improvement!
After reassembling, I put the recoil pad and spacer back on. I wish I had waited until after I refinished the stock to grind them down. The finish on the gun built it up just a little so that the stock is slightly larger than the spacer. Lesson learned. Despite my epic mistake of cutting the stock too short, it doesn't look terrible.
Overall, the gun looks good. Before, I would have rated it a 3 or 4. Now, I would give it a 6.5 or 7. It looks very good from a couple feet away. Close inspection reveals that it is not perfect. If you know what to look for, you can tell it was done by an amateur. I am happy with it though. I knew it wouldn't be a showpiece, but I feel like it came out pretty dang good. I love the size. If fits me very well. The short barrel is awesome. I am very happy with the gun. Now it's time to install the scope rail, scope, and take it to the range.
I'm having trouble with the forum right now. I will upload pics later.
I got a good bit done on the gun this week.
I started by using the Birchwood Casey Stock and Sheen Conditioner. I'd like to get some of the fff rubbing compound from Brownell's that Sharps40 suggested, but after buying the scope, my budget is super tight. So, I used what I had on hand. It worked to knock of some of the shine. I used 3 coats of it. The stock looks satisfactory. It is not perfect, but it definitely looks better than it did.
I touched up the blueing with Oxpho Blue. Cold blue is not the answer. However, right now, I don't have the setup for hot or slow rust blue. Cold blue does not offer satisfactory results, but it is my only option right now. Gun oil and 0000 steel wool removed the rust pretty well. I cleaned all the excess oil off. I applied the Oxpho Blue with applicators from Tandy Leather. You can also you cotton balls. For the cold blue, poke a hole in the foil top and squirt it into a small cup. You don't want to dip a used applicator back in the cold blue bottle. I used small amounts at a time to do a small section and changed the applicator frequently. You apply it, let it sit for a minute, then rub it in with 0000 steel wool. According to the manufacturer, Oxpho Blue is designed to work with the factory finish. I used 3 to 5 applications on each part.
As I expected, certain parts took the cold blue well. Others not so well. You can see that in the pic. The crown came out well. The notch in the barrel and the magazine came out well. In fact, in the pic of the notch on the magazine, it is hard to tell which is factory and which is mine. The bottom metal plate was almost in the white after I got all the rust off. It came out very well. Much to my surprise, the enlarged barrel band did not take the cold blue hardly at all. I couldn't believe how poorly it performed on that spot. You can see in the pic that the lever didn't take it well either - it just turned a dull gray. On the receiver and barrel, the cold blue covered problem spots well, but it is a slightly lighter color than the factory blue. This gives it somewhat of a splotchy appearance. That was expected. Eventually, when I have the equipment, I would like to reblue the entire gun.
I let everything sit for a couple days with a good coat of oil. Wiped off the excess and reassembled. Reassembly went well. After a few months, it was kinda tricky remembering which screws went where, but I got it figured out. After I got it reassembled, everything seemed to work well, but I could not get the hammer to go all the way to the firing pin. After a minute, I realized the safety was on! Haha. Everything works great. Action is smoother but still very tight. I had installed a Wild West Bear Proof Ejector a while back, and that seems to make the action very stiff. The trigger feels great! Man, what an improvement!
After reassembling, I put the recoil pad and spacer back on. I wish I had waited until after I refinished the stock to grind them down. The finish on the gun built it up just a little so that the stock is slightly larger than the spacer. Lesson learned. Despite my epic mistake of cutting the stock too short, it doesn't look terrible.
Overall, the gun looks good. Before, I would have rated it a 3 or 4. Now, I would give it a 6.5 or 7. It looks very good from a couple feet away. Close inspection reveals that it is not perfect. If you know what to look for, you can tell it was done by an amateur. I am happy with it though. I knew it wouldn't be a showpiece, but I feel like it came out pretty dang good. I love the size. If fits me very well. The short barrel is awesome. I am very happy with the gun. Now it's time to install the scope rail, scope, and take it to the range.
I'm having trouble with the forum right now. I will upload pics later.
Attachments
Last edited:
ncrobb
Senior Member
Very nice, I bet it handles quick. Between this thread and the two that Sharps40 has going you guys have got me rummaging through my stash looking for a project.
Supercracker
Senior Member
Now I feel like a total slacker for having not touched a shotgun restoration project I have for 2 years.
Turned out nice.
Turned out nice.
Sharps40
Senior Member
Now that there is one fine project. Done it at home. Brung whatcha got. Took yer time and it looks Great! And, its yer way! Its all inspirational, seein folks give it a whirl.
Hayseed, ya got a darn fine rifle situated to suit ya. Ya can be quite proud and don't worry bout the blue or the shine on the wood. It'll get rubbed around and blended in after the first couple tramps thru the laurel and the brambles.
Ya can wrench on my stuff anytime.
Hayseed, ya got a darn fine rifle situated to suit ya. Ya can be quite proud and don't worry bout the blue or the shine on the wood. It'll get rubbed around and blended in after the first couple tramps thru the laurel and the brambles.
Ya can wrench on my stuff anytime.
hayseed_theology
Senior Member
Update 11/5/13
I had originally planned on purchasing a XS Sights Scout rail to put on the gun. After doing a little searching, I found that Weaver made their own scout rail. The price was a little friendlier. It seems well made, and one thing I really like is that the dovetail block has two small set screws. It also comes with a little loctite for the set screws. Fit seems good. I am pleased with it. It seems to be a better value than the XS Sights version.
Mounting it was pretty straightforward. I followed the directions. The dovetail block is made a little oversized. I filed a little off at a time and tested it. Just a little note, I had tested the block a few times but couldn't get it to slide all the way in. Just on a whim, I decided to turn it around and try it. That joker slid right in. So, that's a little trick. If it doesn't fit, flip it around and try it before you remove more material. Trying to center it over the bore felt a little unscientific. It was a lot of eyeballing, and a few attempts to try to measure it with the digital caliper.
After getting the rail on, I moved on to the scope. I had picked up a used, but near perfect Leupold M8 2.5x28 IER and some Leupold Low QRW rings. The upper portion of the rings sort of snap over the tube and putting them on can sometimes scratch the tube. I put a piece of paper under the ring when I popped it down and then slid it out to protect the finish.
I leveled the gun on my shooting rest. Do y'all like my level? I borrowed my wife's cuz I was too lazy to walk out to the shop to get one of mine. I have read that you want to keep the rings at least an inch away from the beginning of the ocular bell on the Leupold scout scopes to prevent any damage. The eye relief is around 9" so I set it where I thought it was about right. I checked the level on the gun then I put the level on the top cap. I snugged the screws down. I really wish I had a torque wrench for that. I slid the laser bore sight in the chamber. Moved the cross hairs a little and I am ready for the range.
The gun is 7.25 lbs with scope. I weighed it today. The scope itself is about 8 oz. I was surprised how moving the scope forward made the gun feel heavier. I really like the scope so far though. It points quick. I don't get a great cheek weld, but I feel like anything other than iron sights on a lever gun leaves me wishing the comb was higher. Can't wait to tote it in the woods.
Tools: Level, gunsmith screwdriver set, shooting rest, bore sighting laser, file, digital caliper, paper.
Cost: $275 for scope, rings, scout rail, and batteries for the bore sighting laser after I left it on for 5 hours.
I had originally planned on purchasing a XS Sights Scout rail to put on the gun. After doing a little searching, I found that Weaver made their own scout rail. The price was a little friendlier. It seems well made, and one thing I really like is that the dovetail block has two small set screws. It also comes with a little loctite for the set screws. Fit seems good. I am pleased with it. It seems to be a better value than the XS Sights version.
Mounting it was pretty straightforward. I followed the directions. The dovetail block is made a little oversized. I filed a little off at a time and tested it. Just a little note, I had tested the block a few times but couldn't get it to slide all the way in. Just on a whim, I decided to turn it around and try it. That joker slid right in. So, that's a little trick. If it doesn't fit, flip it around and try it before you remove more material. Trying to center it over the bore felt a little unscientific. It was a lot of eyeballing, and a few attempts to try to measure it with the digital caliper.
After getting the rail on, I moved on to the scope. I had picked up a used, but near perfect Leupold M8 2.5x28 IER and some Leupold Low QRW rings. The upper portion of the rings sort of snap over the tube and putting them on can sometimes scratch the tube. I put a piece of paper under the ring when I popped it down and then slid it out to protect the finish.
I leveled the gun on my shooting rest. Do y'all like my level? I borrowed my wife's cuz I was too lazy to walk out to the shop to get one of mine. I have read that you want to keep the rings at least an inch away from the beginning of the ocular bell on the Leupold scout scopes to prevent any damage. The eye relief is around 9" so I set it where I thought it was about right. I checked the level on the gun then I put the level on the top cap. I snugged the screws down. I really wish I had a torque wrench for that. I slid the laser bore sight in the chamber. Moved the cross hairs a little and I am ready for the range.
The gun is 7.25 lbs with scope. I weighed it today. The scope itself is about 8 oz. I was surprised how moving the scope forward made the gun feel heavier. I really like the scope so far though. It points quick. I don't get a great cheek weld, but I feel like anything other than iron sights on a lever gun leaves me wishing the comb was higher. Can't wait to tote it in the woods.
Tools: Level, gunsmith screwdriver set, shooting rest, bore sighting laser, file, digital caliper, paper.
Cost: $275 for scope, rings, scout rail, and batteries for the bore sighting laser after I left it on for 5 hours.
Attachments
Last edited:
Boar Hunter
Senior Member
That's a great looking set-up!
ncrobb
Senior Member
That is sweet. I've been wanting to try a Scout style scope mounting.
hayseed_theology
Senior Member
Thanks, buddy. I love the scope. You had any luck so far this year?
It's different, but so far I really like it.
Boar Hunter
Senior Member
No luck yet. I haven't been hunting much. I've been out of service, tore a hamstring playing football with the nephews. I'm planning to spend a few days in the highlands later this month.
Your rifle project has peaked my interest in shortening a 336.
You should be proud of a job well done!
Your rifle project has peaked my interest in shortening a 336.
You should be proud of a job well done!
clayservant
Senior Member
That is a sweet job you dun did, it is a one of a kind for sure.
Nice job on the rifle, and thanks for the post-fun one to follow along with.
I agree about the comb being low with a scope. Not sure if you have any interest in this but I put a leather cheek pad on my .336 and it brings your eye up to the scope.
How does your gun shoot after reducing the barrel length?
I agree about the comb being low with a scope. Not sure if you have any interest in this but I put a leather cheek pad on my .336 and it brings your eye up to the scope.
How does your gun shoot after reducing the barrel length?
hayseed_theology
Senior Member
I have looked into options on raising the comb. Are you happy with your cheek pad? Which one did you get?
As to how it shoots, I got a chance to run down to Chickasawhatchee WMA gun range last week, so I will try post a full range report tonight or tomorrow.
hayseed_theology
Senior Member
Range Report 11/26/13
I finally had a chance to get the Lever Gun to the range. I had about an hour at the range to sight in this fella and check the zero on the 7 Mag. I went down to Chickasawhatchee WMA, which is just about 15 min from me. I like the range over there and with it being a Friday morning, I had the place to myself. They have good solid tables, and I brought my shooting rest.
I wanted to start at 25 yds, but the shortest distance was 50 yds. At that point, I was glad I had bore sighted it. I used an old splatter target so I could see my hits. I popped off the first 3 rounds. It hit about 6" low and about 4" left. Always good to be on paper with the first ones. I figured at 50 yds I wanted to be 1"-1.5" high. After a few adjustments, I was pretty well in the neighborhood of where I wanted to be. The barrel never really got really warm, but before I made the final adjustments I wanted it cool. I also sprayed a little Hoppe's on a bore snake and ran it through a couple times. My last 3 shots are the ones in the pic. That group was a little over 1" (remember this is at 50 yds, not 100). That was the best group of the day. In total, I think I sent 15 rounds down range. I like to do 3 shot group, adjust, 3 shot group, adjust. I feel like with a non-tack driver like this it gives me a better idea of where the gun is shooting. Main issue then is not warming the barrel up. 1 Shot, adjust, 1 shot, adjust, 1 shot, adjust is like chasing a balloon somebody blew up and let go.
I used Federal Premium 125 gr HP factory ammo. I had never used this ammo before so I don't know how it grouped out of the gun before. When I get another chance to go to the range, I want to compare groups with the 125 gr Federal, 170 gr Winchester's, and 150 gr Remington's at 100 yds. Previously, this gun liked those other two loads pretty well. Without more range time, I can't make a judgment on the affect shortening the barrel had on accuracy. I will say though, I don't think anyone would complain about that last group. I don't have a chronograph so I can't test the velocity difference. There were two things that surprised me about the shorter barrel - muzzle blast and muzzle rise. I knew both would increase with shortening the barrel, but both increased more than I expected. I was wearing hearing protection, but I could tell the muffled boom had been replaced by a sharper crack. I was surprised how the muzzle jumped after the shot. With the new recoil pad, felt recoil was minimal, but it had a sharper jump to it.
I like the scope a lot. It points very naturally. I had read complaints about scout scopes not gathering light as well, but at dawn and dusk, I can see better through the scope than with the naked eye. It may not gather light as well as a conventional mounted optic with a larger objective, but it is more than sufficient. I was also concerned that the 2.5x magnification would leave me wanting more, but so far I am very happy with it. I have always shot a rifle with one eye closed. The scout scope works much better with both eyes open, which I know is a good habit to be in anyway. It is very comfortable to look through with both eyes open.
The Wild West Happy Trigger Kit is by far the BEST modification that I made to the gun. The trigger pull is lighter and breaks clean. It was well worth the money. I never though I'd say this, but… the trigger pull on my Marlin lever action is noticeably better than the trigger pull on my Remington 700!!! I'm gonna have to fix that, but that'll be a different thread.
It was a good hour at the range. I checked the 7 Mag, and she's still on.
I was so excited about the lever action that I took it deer hunting the next morning. It was a rainy morning and I wanted to do some scouting in the woods, so it was the perfect day to take it. Man, this gun handles so quick! I love it. It was great in the woods. I didn't hang it on every branch and vine in the county like I normally do. Now picking up the 7 Mag feels like I am shouldering an 8' 2x4. I can't wait to see some venison in the crosshairs.
I finally had a chance to get the Lever Gun to the range. I had about an hour at the range to sight in this fella and check the zero on the 7 Mag. I went down to Chickasawhatchee WMA, which is just about 15 min from me. I like the range over there and with it being a Friday morning, I had the place to myself. They have good solid tables, and I brought my shooting rest.
I wanted to start at 25 yds, but the shortest distance was 50 yds. At that point, I was glad I had bore sighted it. I used an old splatter target so I could see my hits. I popped off the first 3 rounds. It hit about 6" low and about 4" left. Always good to be on paper with the first ones. I figured at 50 yds I wanted to be 1"-1.5" high. After a few adjustments, I was pretty well in the neighborhood of where I wanted to be. The barrel never really got really warm, but before I made the final adjustments I wanted it cool. I also sprayed a little Hoppe's on a bore snake and ran it through a couple times. My last 3 shots are the ones in the pic. That group was a little over 1" (remember this is at 50 yds, not 100). That was the best group of the day. In total, I think I sent 15 rounds down range. I like to do 3 shot group, adjust, 3 shot group, adjust. I feel like with a non-tack driver like this it gives me a better idea of where the gun is shooting. Main issue then is not warming the barrel up. 1 Shot, adjust, 1 shot, adjust, 1 shot, adjust is like chasing a balloon somebody blew up and let go.
I used Federal Premium 125 gr HP factory ammo. I had never used this ammo before so I don't know how it grouped out of the gun before. When I get another chance to go to the range, I want to compare groups with the 125 gr Federal, 170 gr Winchester's, and 150 gr Remington's at 100 yds. Previously, this gun liked those other two loads pretty well. Without more range time, I can't make a judgment on the affect shortening the barrel had on accuracy. I will say though, I don't think anyone would complain about that last group. I don't have a chronograph so I can't test the velocity difference. There were two things that surprised me about the shorter barrel - muzzle blast and muzzle rise. I knew both would increase with shortening the barrel, but both increased more than I expected. I was wearing hearing protection, but I could tell the muffled boom had been replaced by a sharper crack. I was surprised how the muzzle jumped after the shot. With the new recoil pad, felt recoil was minimal, but it had a sharper jump to it.
I like the scope a lot. It points very naturally. I had read complaints about scout scopes not gathering light as well, but at dawn and dusk, I can see better through the scope than with the naked eye. It may not gather light as well as a conventional mounted optic with a larger objective, but it is more than sufficient. I was also concerned that the 2.5x magnification would leave me wanting more, but so far I am very happy with it. I have always shot a rifle with one eye closed. The scout scope works much better with both eyes open, which I know is a good habit to be in anyway. It is very comfortable to look through with both eyes open.
The Wild West Happy Trigger Kit is by far the BEST modification that I made to the gun. The trigger pull is lighter and breaks clean. It was well worth the money. I never though I'd say this, but… the trigger pull on my Marlin lever action is noticeably better than the trigger pull on my Remington 700!!! I'm gonna have to fix that, but that'll be a different thread.
It was a good hour at the range. I checked the 7 Mag, and she's still on.
I was so excited about the lever action that I took it deer hunting the next morning. It was a rainy morning and I wanted to do some scouting in the woods, so it was the perfect day to take it. Man, this gun handles so quick! I love it. It was great in the woods. I didn't hang it on every branch and vine in the county like I normally do. Now picking up the 7 Mag feels like I am shouldering an 8' 2x4. I can't wait to see some venison in the crosshairs.
Attachments
The Original Rooster
Mayor of Spring Hill
Hayseed, it really turned out great. The next picture I want to see is the first deer you take with it.
Glad to hear you like everything about your "new" gun.
The first one you kill with it is gonna be a great feeling of satifaction-good luck.
I'm with ya on the Wild West trigger in the Marlin. I also put one in my 336 and really like- I also like that it eliminates the trigger "flop".
The first one you kill with it is gonna be a great feeling of satifaction-good luck.
I'm with ya on the Wild West trigger in the Marlin. I also put one in my 336 and really like- I also like that it eliminates the trigger "flop".
Sharps40
Senior Member
And now you know one thing: People with short barreled carbines are all smiles when stalking in the thick stuff.
As for accuracy, you'll be ringing the 12" steels at 200 meters with no problems before long. Like I've always said, the lil ones are great to handle and still reach out to 200 on the bean fields with no issues.
170g Federal blue box will likely be your most accurate ammo and the hardest hitting. Expect a rather large difference in POI given the difference in bullet weight and overall bearing surface in the bore.
Most of the time, differences in accuracy between long and short barrels are the shooter...differences in power are typically not detectable as the shorter barrel dosn't typically loose enough velocity to change momentum/KE, etc a noticeable amount. As long as the bullet penetrates deep and into the vitals, deer go down.....ala TC pistols in traditional rifle calibers perform far beyond what innernet naysayers and arm chair ballisticians will negatively imply.
2.5x is bout perfect for a stalker and occasional bean field shooter.
mark-7mag
Useless Billy Director of transpotation
Thank you for sharing! I have a 336 in a .35 that I bought used a couple of years ago. I want to dissasemble it and give it a good cleaning and possibly change the trigger. I watched the youtube video you posted on how to dissasemble and I found it to look very informative however, I could not find a video on how you reassemble. I would hate to take it apart and then have to take it to a gunsmith to assemble. Too bad you are on the other side of the state from me. I would like someone to guide me.
hayseed_theology
Senior Member
If you go to youtube and search for "marlin 336 re-assembly", you will find a 5 part tutorial from a guy called "willwood487." I haven't watched the videos, but I expect that is about what you are looking for. If you do take it apart, make sure you have a gunsmith screwdriver set(doesn't have to be a fancy one). Don't do it with a regular screwdriver, or you will mess up the screw heads. Also, here is a schematic of the 336: http://www.urban-armory.com/diagrams/marlin33.htm . If you need to, use the schematic part numbers/names and make notes as you disassemble. If we were closer, I'd be glad to help you.
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