Going to give it a try!

tsharp

Senior Member
BP I have a compressing spring in the adjustment pulley. You have to push down, then adjust the front 2 wheel plate? then release and the spring pushes upward. I place a 30# compressing spring. Most of the steel used was all free, even the electric motor and the machine work to install the wheel. I may have 30$ invested in it so far. I you lived closer I would give you the left over steel.
 

BriarPatch99

Senior Member
Great .... I need to follow your lead ... I ain't got that far yet....

After going back and looking closer ... I see how the spring works.... I should look twice before I open my mouth!

I got everything I need except the idler wheels .... And a spring !
 
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Gobbler Down

Senior Member
I laid out how I wanted my belt sander that I'm building, and I changed a few things this morning. I worked on the belt sander for a couple of hours and completed the welding. Made the tracking wheel, still have to install the spring for the tension. Any advice or more information would help, Thanks Tim.
Next time you need to drill a hardened steel and your regular bits just don't cut it- use a high quality "masonry" bit!!! Works every time! I've had steel laugh at my high speed carbide bits and whimper like a kicked coyote when hit with the masonry bit. Give it a try!!!!
 

Anvil Head

Senior Member
While you are definitely correct Jim, on the masonary bits the key words are "high quality". This is where one has to pay attention for sure. The cheaper blister packed ones apparently use a much lower temp braze process to lock in the carbide bit. If they are the least bit dull they will heat up very fast and often hit the majic release temp and often sling a chip of carbide at a high velocity. Make sure you wear safety glasses and or a good shield when using these for steel (as they are not captive in a concrete hole when doing this).
***Not to say it is not important to wear safety gear/glasses anytime you use a power tool like a drill.***
Be safe out there even when you are having fun.
 

tsharp

Senior Member
I had a chance today to prime and topcoat my sander. I also wanted to show BP how I made the tension wheel. As you can see I place a push spring in the upright bracket then place the adjustment wheel bracket in the upright bracket. I have a little more to do, but I did make a test run with it already. BP if you need a spring I have another I can ship you.
 

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BriarPatch99

Senior Member
That is a cool idea .... I've seen many plans with pull springs ... a few with compression springs ....But none that work like yours... thank for the idea ....

I got to get off my rear and get back to work ....
 

tsharp

Senior Member
Well I started working back on my sander and I'm almost finished. I need a few more plastic knobs used to tighten the arm and work table. 1 wire strap for the electric wire and place the cover for the electric motor. What do you'll think?
 

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Moonpie1

Gone but not forgotten
Very impressive T! That's really going to be a good addition to your new knife making endeavor.
 

rayjay

Senior Member
Tim,,
How is the sander/grinder working out?? Where did you get the idler wheels and the drive wheel ? Is the surface of the drive wheel flat or crowned ?

I have decided to build one. Just this afternoon I hit upon what I want to use for the frame. It's the front half of a riding mower frame. I will post a pic. For a motor I am thinking of using a Craftsmen 9" angle grinder that I never use. I have a lathe and milling machine so I can do just about anything I need but it's smart to use readily available stuff like your idlers and the drive wheel.

Thanks !!
 

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tsharp

Senior Member
Sorry for the long delay. I saw that some of the builders were using skate board wheels so I ordered some from ebay. For the drive wheel I used a commercial dolly wheel once install on the electric motor I used a rasp while the motor was running and chaffed the wheel the way It was supposed to be. It's working fine just to busy to use it now.
 
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