Duramax troubleshooting

JpEater

Senior Member
I'm sure it has a fuel pump. But it also has a primer button on top of the fuel filter housing. To bleed it, there is a nut to loose, someone turns the motor over until all the air is out and then after tightening, you pump the button until it gets hard.

Do not turn the engine over untill all the air is bled out of the system.

Proper bleeding procedure for a Duramax Diesel of ALL year models.....

Step 1: Open plastic slotted bleeder screw on top of the filter housing a few turns.
Step 2: Prime the primer until you get a steady stream of clean diesel fuel with no air bubbles present.
Step 3: Lightly snug bleeder screw.
Step 4: Prime the primer a few times. After 2-3 pumps, you should notice it firm up.
Step 5: Crank up the truck.

Note: Plastic bleeder screws are very prone to cracking. The engine will NOT run if its cracked and sucking air. Merchant Automotive sells a machined Bleeder screw that will not break.
 

bluemarlin

Senior Member
Def get rid of the plastic bleeder screw and replace it with a machined one. Also it's a good idea to get yourself some type of code scanner. It will pay for itself and you'll know what's going on... Most can read and erase fault codes.
 

JpEater

Senior Member
Always start with the basics....

First thing is Fuel. A Duramax will not run with any type of an air leak in the fuel system due to the fact that there is no electric fuel pump to pressurize the system. The fuel system is 100% mechanical with NO relays for a fuel pump. It works off of vaccum. It "pulls" fuel to the engine. 99% of all fuel problems are caused by either an improper fuel filter installation sucking air, a cracked or stripped out water in fuel sensor (bottom of fuel filter), a cracked bleeder screw, or leaking seals in the primer assembly. Start by checking for air in the system. You can loosen the bleeder screw and prime is a few times. If you have air bubbles present in the fuel stream, you have an air intrusion caused by one of the above mentioned places most likely. If you don't have air bubbles when priming, you likely have another issue.

One thing that you didn't state was how it shut off. Where you on the throttle when it died? Did it just shut right off or kinda sputter out. Feel free to PM me a number and I'll be more than happy to walk you through some things to check. Normally a Duramax won't just die unless its a fuel problem. There are other circumstances obviously, but they are pretty uncommon on a duramax.

You didn't state which model engine you have. Is it an early 04 (LB7) or a late 04 (LLY). You can determine that by looking at the 8th VIN digit and seeing if its a 1 or a 2.

Keep in mind, these are just the first of many steps involved in diagnosing it. There are many more...
 

M80

Useles Billy’s Spiritual Counselor
My question is does it spin over and not crank, or does it not spin over at all, you turn switch over and nothing or?

If it doesn't spin over at all, maybe something is up with your 4x4 and not allowing it. Need more info.
 

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
My question is does it spin over and not crank, or does it not spin over at all, you turn switch over and nothing or?

If it doesn't spin over at all, maybe something is up with your 4x4 and not allowing it. Need more info.
It spins over
 

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
Do not turn the engine over untill all the air is bled out of the system.

Proper bleeding procedure for a Duramax Diesel of ALL year models.....

Step 1: Open plastic slotted bleeder screw on top of the filter housing a few turns.
Step 2: Prime the primer until you get a steady stream of clean diesel fuel with no air bubbles present.
Step 3: Lightly snug bleeder screw.
Step 4: Prime the primer a few times. After 2-3 pumps, you should notice it firm up.
Step 5: Crank up the truck.

Note: Plastic bleeder screws are very prone to cracking. The engine will NOT run if its cracked and sucking air. Merchant Automotive sells a machined Bleeder screw that will not break.
Interesting, so I don't understand how if it is not a pressurized system how the air will get out.
 

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
Always start with the basics....

First thing is Fuel. A Duramax will not run with any type of an air leak in the fuel system due to the fact that there is no electric fuel pump to pressurize the system. The fuel system is 100% mechanical with NO relays for a fuel pump. It works off of vaccum. It "pulls" fuel to the engine. 99% of all fuel problems are caused by either an improper fuel filter installation sucking air, a cracked or stripped out water in fuel sensor (bottom of fuel filter), a cracked bleeder screw, or leaking seals in the primer assembly. Start by checking for air in the system. You can loosen the bleeder screw and prime is a few times. If you have air bubbles present in the fuel stream, you have an air intrusion caused by one of the above mentioned places most likely. If you don't have air bubbles when priming, you likely have another issue.

One thing that you didn't state was how it shut off. Where you on the throttle when it died? Did it just shut right off or kinda sputter out. Feel free to PM me a number and I'll be more than happy to walk you through some things to check. Normally a Duramax won't just die unless its a fuel problem. There are other circumstances obviously, but they are pretty uncommon on a duramax.

You didn't state which model engine you have. Is it an early 04 (LB7) or a late 04 (LLY). You can determine that by looking at the 8th VIN digit and seeing if its a 1 or a 2.

Keep in mind, these are just the first of many steps involved in diagnosing it. There are many more...

If I remember right, I had my head out the window, was goning to give it some throttle so that I could see if the front wheels were going to spin. I gave it a little, saw the wheel spin and if shut down
 

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
Always start with the basics....

First thing is Fuel. A Duramax will not run with any type of an air leak in the fuel system due to the fact that there is no electric fuel pump to pressurize the system. The fuel system is 100% mechanical with NO relays for a fuel pump. It works off of vaccum. It "pulls" fuel to the engine. 99% of all fuel problems are caused by either an improper fuel filter installation sucking air, a cracked or stripped out water in fuel sensor (bottom of fuel filter), a cracked bleeder screw, or leaking seals in the primer assembly. Start by checking for air in the system. You can loosen the bleeder screw and prime is a few times. If you have air bubbles present in the fuel stream, you have an air intrusion caused by one of the above mentioned places most likely. If you don't have air bubbles when priming, you likely have another issue.

One thing that you didn't state was how it shut off. Where you on the throttle when it died? Did it just shut right off or kinda sputter out. Feel free to PM me a number and I'll be more than happy to walk you through some things to check. Normally a Duramax won't just die unless its a fuel problem. There are other circumstances obviously, but they are pretty uncommon on a duramax.

You didn't state which model engine you have. Is it an early 04 (LB7) or a late 04 (LLY). You can determine that by looking at the 8th VIN digit and seeing if its a 1 or a 2.

Keep in mind, these are just the first of many steps involved in diagnosing it. There are many more...
I have the early model, whichever that is, LLY, I think. You must be right about "air intrusion", because the mechanic bleed the system and it fired right up. If I had suspected this, I would have done it in the field. You got me thinking, last year when they claimed they put a fuel pump relay on it, I wonder if this was all they done to it but wanted to justify a higher charge for their trouble. ???
 

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
As Willie would say "On the road again". Thanks for all the help
 

bandit819

Senior Member
If you had air in the lines it will happen again and more frequent. It did for me. I would get a new bleeder screw. bleeding and priming are a pain.
 

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
If you had air in the lines it will happen again and more frequent. It did for me. I would get a new bleeder screw. bleeding and priming are a pain.
I think I will. Did you order yours or just match it from the hardware store?
 

JpEater

Senior Member
I have the early model, whichever that is, LLY, I think. You must be right about "air intrusion", because the mechanic bleed the system and it fired right up. If I had suspected this, I would have done it in the field. You got me thinking, last year when they claimed they put a fuel pump relay on it, I wonder if this was all they done to it but wanted to justify a higher charge for their trouble. ???

You likely have a cracked or leaking bleeder screw, a leaking fuel primer, a leaking fuel filter or water in fuel sensor. I would start by replacing the fuel filter. Be sure to replace the O-ring for the filter and replace the o-ring for the water in fuel sensor on the bottom of the fuel filter. The water in fuel sensor is plastic, so be careful not to overtighten and strip it. If you still have an issue with it loosing prime, I would rebuild your primer assembly or replace it. The complete fuel filter head can be bought from the deal and replaced with two bolts, on wire connector and two fuel lines. Super super easy to replace. If your mechanically inclined and want to save money, replace the seals in the primer assembly with a kit available from Merchant Automotive.

An FYI for you. The fuel system on a duramax works on vaccum because fuel is "pulled" from the tank to the engine. If there is a leak, it will not show itself because the system is not under pressure. It will instead suck air in and cause stalling and no start situations.

And yes, I believe the shop took advantage of you to be able to charge you more. Thats blatantly obvious due to the fact they charged you for a fuel pump relay on a truck that does not have an electric fuel pump. ;)
 

bandit819

Senior Member
I would get the one above, I didn;t know they made one. I got mine from a chevy dealer, $15, they said they sell about 100 a month. I would also change the fuel filter. I remember a mechanic told me last year that someone had a bad batch of filters and it and it was causing the same thing. My money would be on the bleeder screw.
 
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