Need your help! Boat trailer bearings. *Added some boat pictures

WayneB

Senior Member
I have a magna grill I can clamp on the rail for mine, it comes in handy when you have to 'filet and release'. ;)
You premix or using the VRO?
 

longbowdave1

Senior Member
I have a magna grill I can clamp on the rail for mine, it comes in handy when you have to 'filet and release'. ;)
You premix or using the VRO?
using the oil injection system. Seems to be working fine.
 
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longbowdave1

Senior Member
Nice rig you have, catch some fish now!

Thanks. Just need to test drive the rig close to home, then head North. Lakes up there still under 24" of ice, and they got 24" of snow last weekend. Bad spring this year, we are in the 92 day of January. Lol. Can't wait to fish out of it.
 

WayneB

Senior Member
using the oil injection system. Seems to be working fine.

advice: dump the VRO before you pull it North.

Oil side of mine died 5 miles from ramp, and idled it in, cost me a $1200 rebuild.
$75 in a new pump and mix your own will save you the headache. Trust me when I say it will break, and it will be at the least convenient time.

BTW I use evinrude XD 30 oil; the red stuff. I found a 6 gallon deal at https://domo-online.com/
Bought 6 gallons for what I paid for 3 gallons last year on amazon.
 

WayneB

Senior Member
Universal 3 fitting pump for 50hp or larger, vacuum pulse line from pulse limiter (on block aft and below starter) to pulse side, fuel in and out. Cap off the old oil line at cowl and yank the tank and line for the oil tank. Premix 50:1.
need pump, 2-3 ft of fuel line and new clamps. 30 minutes to install. There's a few 'kits' for around $140 that have a bracket and lines/clamps. Hard to swallow knowing pump alone is around $60ish.
There's a 4 wire connector to the VRO pump, and a 2 wire to the oil tank, unplug em and move on.
 

longbowdave1

Senior Member
Universal 3 fitting pump for 50hp or larger, vacuum pulse line from pulse limiter (on block aft and below starter) to pulse side, fuel in and out. Cap off the old oil line at cowl and yank the tank and line for the oil tank. Premix 50:1.
need pump, 2-3 ft of fuel line and new clamps. 30 minutes to install. There's a few 'kits' for around $140 that have a bracket and lines/clamps. Hard to swallow knowing pump alone is around $60ish.
There's a 4 wire connector to the VRO pump, and a 2 wire to the oil tank, unplug em and move on.


Got it.

Good news the new hubs showed up at my doorstep today. You guys done good, they are an exact match! Thanks again for that.

I cleaned the oil and grease off the new hubs, and painted them up to match the trailer. I won't be able to install them till next week. Turkey hunting the next 4 days. By then, it should warm up and melt this darn snow.
 

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WayneB

Senior Member
dang holes and hub pattern and errythang lol
a week in those temps the paint 'may' be dry enough to handle. ;)
glad it worked out.
 

longbowdave1

Senior Member
They can hang til Monday, ought to be dry then. Hey, we have a big warm up coming the next 8 days!!!! 50's and 60's with the sun shinning! I'll believe it when I see it. Maybe Spring has finally arrived. Just got done shoveling another 3 inches of snow off the driveway. :deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse:
 

longbowdave1

Senior Member
I installed the new hubs today and they fit perfectly, and the second set of bolts came off as easily as the first. When I pulled the second tire off(for the first time) I noticed writing on the hub with a yellow paint marker. Said,"1989 Skylark'. I guess if I would have pulled this tire off first, the mystery would have been solved sooner.

The first hub we were dealing with was in terrible shape and painted blue to match the trailer, I'm guessing original hub to the trailer. The second one I suspect is a junkyard part possibly. Not painted, and in a little better shape than the first, but still needed to be replaced.

The wheels are spinning free and true again. Now here is my question, Should I add bearing buddies to the hubs, or not worry about them???? I'm sure they will out last me with the short trips planned for the trailer.
 

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WayneB

Senior Member
I would consider a zerk fitting so you could grease, but I'm not certain it would help. Likely would blow the seal out and still leave moisture behind.
 

NE GA Pappy

Mr. Pappy
I would consider a zerk fitting so you could grease, but I'm not certain it would help. Likely would blow the seal out and still leave moisture behind.

these hubs are not made to be greased. They are sealed for life. They are designed to run over 100,000 miles on cars, and you should never wear them out on the trailer as long as you can keep water out of them.

Don't install a grease fitting, bearing buddy or anything else. Just bolt them on and run them.
 

WayneB

Senior Member
these hubs are not made to be greased. They are sealed for life. They are designed to run over 100,000 miles on cars, and you should never wear them out on the trailer as long as you can keep water out of them.

Don't install a grease fitting, bearing buddy or anything else. Just bolt them on and run them.

your most likely correct, what if anything would push out water? 1 psi of pressure in hub will prevent encroachment, but how to practically pressurize?

I looked it up, 33 ft of water depth is 1 atmosphere or 14.7 psi. Boat trailers usually won't go deeper than 2 ft at axle hub, 1-2 psi should keep water out.
 

NE GA Pappy

Mr. Pappy
your most likely correct, what if anything would push out water? 1 psi of pressure in hub will prevent encroachment, but how to practically pressurize?

I looked it up, 33 ft of water depth is 1 atmosphere or 14.7 psi. Boat trailers usually won't go deeper than 2 ft at axle hub, 1-2 psi should keep water out.

standard oil seals are only rated at 2.5 to 3 psi. They are very easy to burst because of over greasing. He will be much better off to leave them the way the factory made them, rather than try to guess how many strokes of a grease gun will exceed the seals ability to hold pressure.

Also, grease seals are not made to hold pressure like a fluid power seal. As the axle rotates, the pressure will be released and he will be in the same shape as before he started, only he will have additional paths for water to get into the bearing.

from my training in backflow prevention, IIRC, 1 psi is equal to 2.31 feet of water column. So he will probably never even see 1 psi on the seal. With that small amount of pressure, it would seem that the water being forced into the hub would be minimal.
 

WayneB

Senior Member
somewhere around .4 psi per foot or so.
I can't actually recall ever having had water inside a hub under 'normal' use and maintenance. After a couple years sitting and being occasionally used the seals would let water in.
 

longbowdave1

Senior Member
Thanks again guys for the info. I'll just run them as is. Even if one were to fail, they are cheap, and easy to replace.
 

longbowdave1

Senior Member
Good news. The pontoon was hauled up to it's new Northwoods home last Friday, and no problems towing it. We did not get to test run it though, the lakes were still frozen, but almost ready to open up. Hopefully this weekend we can finally go for a cruise.It's been very warm up there all week.
 

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