Replacement prop question

I have a 14' sea ray made in the 1950's that I have changed to a river, flats, duck boat. I have a 25hp tiller steer 2 stroke Mercury that found a rock yesterday on the river. The stock prop was a 3 blade aluminum. What style prop should I use as a replacement?

Three or four blade/stainless or aluminum?

I vote aluminum. Especially if there is a chance of finding another rock.
Aluminum = cheaper.
Aluminum will deform easier to absorb some of the shock as opposed to transferring it to your shaft which could damage it or the gearing that meshes together to turn it. Bent shaft could in turn damage the bearings that support it.
I'm not sure, but I've heard that three blades is actually faster than 4.
Just my opinion, I am no expert. I have 3 aluminum 3 blades in 3 different pitches for my shallow water boat.
Best of luck with the new one...

I've had good luck with Michigan Wheel props, more so than many other brands I've had. A 25 hp is not really a speed demon, if your boat planed out and had a decent enough hole shot, I'd go back to the same diameter and pitch as previous.
You may also want to invest in a spare prop and wrench if you plan to fish shallow.

I'm in a similar situation ... the aluminum prop I have now is pretty chewed up. Sea Hunt 175 Escape with a Johnson 115 ... prop is 13 X 19. Was considering an increase in pitch to increase my top end speed and lower rpms but it takes long enough to get out of the hole with three guys as it is now. Would a "new" less chewed up prop make a huge difference? Do I need to increase diameter? It bites perfectly in and out of turns so should I even consider a four blade?

I have 3 different props also. One that is my everyday with 2 people and a dog, one for 4 people and one for just me (which hardly ever gets used. The one for 4 people obviously has more torque and you give up some top end but - if it is just me in the boat it will pop up on plane in just a few seconds! You could try replacing it with the same prop since it is chewed up pretty bad. That should help.

This website has a prop finder wizard. It takes a long time to load and it is tedious but it helped me find the props I have and I am pleased with the various outcomes. Play with the payload numbers a bit and you will get some idea of where you need to be.

https://turningpointpropellers.com/PROPWIZARD/index.html?tan=

My friend swears by stainless but I will stick with aluminum because of the issues mentioned above. Cheaper to replace a prop than an engine.

Stainless is the only way to go with anything over a 20hp up(for me I run it on my 15hp). I own 3 boats now and all of them have SS props (15hp, 60hp, 350hp) I am pretty sure no one has hit more junk than me. I have ruined several. I just now put a new prop on my Suzuki from nothing more than sandbars eating it up. Few oyster beds going where I shouldn't. I have some I need to sell due to not owning the motors they fit anymore. I wouldn't waste money on aluminum. They bend with any contact pretty much. Rocks or concrete are the worst. Sandbars will bend aluminum. Logs as well. I have hit enough and I haven't broke anything inside a gear case. Another vote for SS for me. 9 times out of 10 it may leave a scar but it will not damage a SS prop.

Hole shot is better with SS. Top end is better with SS. Overall performance is better. Durability is better with SS.

For me its a no brainer. Initially it does cost more. Long run it last longer. Bends cause vibration. Vibration on a outboard foot is not good. Seals go first then bearings. Most buy aluminum due to them being 100 or less. SS props depending on size are 150 up to 500. Up to you and your wants.

Typically SS prop vs AL you can go up one pitch. I have only seen this with my 15hp not be true. A good marine shop will sometimes have some props to test. I buy mine from Ken at Prop Gods. Due to him letting me return them if they aren't correct. Just ask what he can do when you shop there. I always call him. Not web orders. The small motors he may not have a loaner. 150's up he normally has something.

The previous owner of my boat had a Michigan Wheel cupped and shaped to suit the boat and it worked. Blew out the hub and replaced with same pitch, had cavitation issues, went down in pitch and up in diameter, had holeshot, no top end. Up in pitch, same diameter, it sucked all around.
Finally found someone to rehub my SS prop, life is good again.
All that to get to this; If you find an off the shelf prop that works, you need to buy a lotto ticket! Many props can be improved with a good prop shop tweaking on them. Most AL props wont hold a cup, so most prop shops won't even try.

Modern props have a slide-in replaceable hub, so hitting stuff the hub absorbs the impact, and can be replaced in minutes just about anywhere, with just pulling the prop.
I'd go stainless and keep an AL prop onboard for emergencies.

Agreed. A good prop man is hard to find now days as well. Mine isn't in business anymore and I hate it.

what ever you buy check amazon.i bought my last prop local thinking i would spend local only to find out i could have got it almost 70 dollars cheaper on amazon.Comon man