Rem 700 ADL trigger issue

maybe the issue is inside the trigger assembly itself


Thats all I think it could be.

Now I just need a large and clear schematic before I even ATTEMPT taking it apart.

Anyone?
 

rayjay

Senior Member
The trigger pivot pin is an interference fit in the side plates so it has to be drive out with an appropriate drift. Once it's out and the sear is out that's about it. You may have to unscrew the over travel screw which is the upper one in the front. Should probably remove the pull weight spring and screw also which is the lower one in the front.

The std pull weight spring is too stiff for a lighter pull. If you try to lighten it too much you end up with insufficient preload and the trigger doesn't reset properly. You can buy lighter weight pull springs or just cut one out of a tire valve core.
 
Thanks Ray Jay.
I'm so embarrassed about this

I would like a pull of about 2.5 lbs but with it that low I don't think the trigger will reset backwards with a stock spring on the weight adjustment screw. I don't want it going off when I take the safety off.
I'm learning

A tire valve center spring? The whole thing?
 

Jester896

Senior Clown
before you take it apart you might try to clean it. Use lighter fluid as the solvent and wash it out good. Then blow it out with air.

like rayjay said...if you are trying to get 2# out of the factory spring...that may prove difficult...I would change it as he suggested. Here is one I have used.

Then find a set of adjustment instructions or better yet take it to a qualified Smith. If you are not comfortable that you can do this properly...DON'T

make sure you reseal the screws if you adjust it
 

rayjay

Senior Member
You have to cut the valve core apart and then shorten the spring to suit. Probably easier just to buy the one from Ernie the Gunsmith.
 

jglenn

Senior Member
+1 on the springs from Ernie... use his Varmit spring for the 700 and then adjust... Be CAREFUL not to get the sear engagement to short... you should be able to bang the side of the receiver with your palm and not have the trigger let go..
 

WishboneW

Senior Member
X again on Earnie. I also bought his sear spring for my ADL. Changed both sprrings. Completely satisfied for $20
 
I cleaned the trigger assem.
With the stock off I got it down to 2.4 lbs and it is was consistent. The weight didn't change after several dry fires.
I put it back into the stock and up the weight went again.
I can't see anything binding.
I backed off the screws and it still stayed high.
I just set the stock onto the action without screws and the pull weight stayed high.
The trigger is working correctly but somehow the stock is hitting somewhere but for the life of me I can't tell where.

Using a flashlight I looked inside the recess and nothing.

I can't afford paying a gunsmith the time he'd need to fix this
 
Yes..
with the barreled action out the trigger pull climbs then drops off to 2.5 lbs. Then after bolting the action into the stock it jumps to as high as 7.5 lbs.

There must be something bent inside the trigger assem. is all I can figure.
It is after all a 7mm mag. Its a shoulder fired cannon
 
I spoke with the Timney tech. He asked all the right questions.
It seems the guy I bought the rifle from bragged about how he was shooting WAY OVERLOADS out of it. (Its a 7MM Mag!)
The tech said there are no pins to bend inside the trigger and that the older stock triggers were weak. He said poor metalurgy.
He said that overloads can cause the holes in the assembly to become oval and cause a lot of assorted problems.
BINGO.

We have ignition.
I need a new trigger assembly.

Thanks all for your support and help.
Ill let you know

:yeah:
 
News:

I called Timney Triggers and spoke with their tech support.

The tech guy was cool and very knowledgeable.
I detailed the issue for him. He asked a couple questions.
I told him about the former owner overloading his reloads. He said that even though there are no pins that go through the assembly, there are pivot pins on some of the parts like the sear and that its a friction fit between the sides. He suspects that the cheap tin body which have holes in them for those pivots has probably ovaled out.
He told me he's seen this before on older 700's but this was the first time he'd heard of it in the big magnum.

He said that it's his guess that its probably the assembly. He recommended that I contact Remington and see if they can do anything or just save my money and buy a new trigger.

I called Remington. The people were very nice and I was honest with them and told them the issue was probably caused by overloaded handloads. I was instructed to fill out a form and get into the class action suit that is soon to be complete.

The serial number indicates that this rifle was built in 1962.

They told me that they will replace the trigger with the newest X-Mark Pro externally adjustable unit and my model 700 fits this class action. They also said they will pay for the shipping both ways to my door.

I sent in the beginning paperwork today

Developing
 
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jmoser

Senior Member
X mark pro is not a bad trigger; my 700 SPS .308 came with it [replaced with a Jewel.] You should be happy with it.
 

rayjay

Senior Member
Ernie the Gunsmith has a spring for the X Mark Pro Adjustable trigger. I'm putting together a 700 from parts on hand and when I sell it I will install an X Mark Pro Adjustable since there has be so much negative press about the old style.
 
Erney

The guy I bought this rifle from swears he was hand loading 175 grain mag tips and running them thru a chronograph and was getting nearly 3200 fps.

THATS WAY OVER SAMMI specs.

Im NOT bad mouthing anyone let alone this rifle. In fact about 9 years ago I took it into a gunsmith who used a NO GO gauge in it and told me the chamber was unsafe. Its pre 64 so he set the barrel back.
All is good now.
The model 700 is a brute


:flag:
 

WishboneW

Senior Member
Google earniethegunsmith for his web site. Whatever trigger you get bac from Remington is likely to be over your desired pull weight
 

Darkhorse

Senior Member
One of the first things I would have done is a good glass bedding job of that receiver. The bedding compound will fill any low spots that might put the action in a bind. So now when you tighten the action screws it pulls it straight and level into it's bedding recess. I think it will work better after this.
If the action rocks in the stock then when you tighten the screws it pulls down into a bind. Time to bed. You rifle will thank you by shooting better than before.

I also agree about the poor quality of the walker trigger housing. The spring holes have a rough finish that can interfere with the spring movement. And I think the springs themselves loose strength over time.
 
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