Gobbler Down
Senior Member
Happy New Year Carl! My best wishes for prosperity and good health to you and your family.Dull knives are just bad screw drivers with awkward handles!
Happy New Year Carl! My best wishes for prosperity and good health to you and your family.Dull knives are just bad screw drivers with awkward handles!
Whoo-Hoo! My Ken Onion Edition Worksharp arrived about 11:00 this morning and I've been playing with it for the last couple of hours in between putting out fires at work.
I'm off to work right now, but so far I'm very happy with the unit. It's made short work of several kitchen knives and a couple of pocket knives. Oddly, the larger knives are easier to sharpen, as they sit on the guides very well. I kinda had to pick a stopping point with my kitchen knives, as I don't need/want a razor edge on them, but it will definitely go there if you want too.
I can't wait to try the leather belt on some of the knives I do want scary sharp.
I have the Lansky multi stone setup and stropping it after the fact I can get some scary sharpness out of it.
Stripper hunter I was eyeing the lansky 5 stone system recently. Are you saying that even after using the lansky, you have to strop the blades to get it to the preferred sharpness? Or does the lansky get it razor blade sharp but you just prefer to take it to another level? Full disclosure, I've never used a strop so apologies if this seems like a juvenile question.
Feedback from anyone is appreciated.....I have a 2-sided wet stone with 1,000 and 6,000 but can't seem to get the hang of it even after hrs of trying multiple angles etc. I want to stay away from a machine if possible to avoid shaving off too much metal. Just looking for other options is all.
Thanks in advance
One of my favorite strops (have several in and around the shop), is an old 2" wide smooth buck tanned leather belt I picked up at a thrift store. Took the buckle off and sewed in a spring clip so I can hang it just about anywhere on a drawer handle or door knob. Instead of oil, I use a stick of jeweler's rouge and work it into the leather (it's wax based). Works exceptionally well to knock that final burr off the edge and burnish the bevels. Puts that last little bit of "scary" into sharp. Very handy to have hanging around. I also have a sharpen/hone block on my leather bench - just a block of wood with an arkansas washita stone glued to one side of a long square block, two other sides have leather strops glued down. One with J. rouge and the other with 10,000 grit diamond paste rubbed in. If you do much leather work you will understand how important that final stropping is before you start cutting leather.
One thing that is very important and often overlooked - having the correct initial bevel set properly. A poorly set bevel will not benefit much from any type of final sharpening and stropping. I think that is where the sharpeners above actually shine in that they set the bevel well, better than the average person can do by hand. If you learn the tool well it will serve you well.
I have the Lansky multi stone setup and stropping it after the fact I can get some scary sharpness out of it.
I've got the 5-stone (not the diamond one) system and I like it very much. It's just worn out after 20+ years and rather than replace it, I used some Christmas money to buy the WorkSharp.
The only thing I never liked about the Lansky is that the clamping system makes it difficult to sharpen smallish knives, like a penknife sized pocketknife. Other than that, I was always able to get a wicked edge on knives if I worked down through all the various grit stones.
I've wanted one of these for a while now and this thread pushed me into pulling the trigger. Got mine delivered Saturday and didn't get to play with it much over the weekend, but I did use it on a kitchen knife that I had bought for deer processing and haven't been able to get an edge back on once it lost the one it came with. A few minutes on the work sharp and then some stropping (I bought their leather stropping belt as well, figured it would be easier to keep everything together) and it went from faililng the paper test to shaving sharp. I'm excited, I've got dozens and dozens of knives around the house that I intend to get equally sharp, from kitchen knives to working knives to junk knives I bought from tourist traps as a kid.
That's exactly what I did. I bought the stropping belt as well as another set of normal belts. I've sharpened everything in the house and have started on garden tools.
I've found that wiping off the angle guide every now and then stops the grit that build up from the belts and blades from scratching the sides of larger knives.
Larger knives I can get scary sharp, still having a little trouble with penknife sized blades.
used one at fireman32 house yesterday, it was the basic work sharp machine. I had a cheap China stainless pocket knife and it did get its sharp fairly quick...lot faster than I could manually. Wouldn't put my nice customs on it, course all they ever need is touching up. However, for kitchen knives and lower quality knives it is great. Curious about it for scissors though