rifle accuracy

bigdave

Senior Member
i just read "Black Powder Rifle Accuracy" by Dutch Schoultz. has anyone else ever read this? it is an awsome wealth of info. i learned a lot. what is everyone's opinion?
 

flintlocker

Senior Member
The one to read for sure, Great guy with years of testing and record keeping.
Here is a 7 shot 50 yard group useing his method. .440 Patched RB, 70gr 3F
 
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donald-f

Senior Member
Little low and to the right. Needs to be tweeked just a little.:biggrin2:
Very nice grouping for a ML.
 

7Mag Hunter

Senior Member
Found this info quite a few years ago....Did not purchase
the report but do use some of his methods outlined in
the "tips" section..
Interest to review the "tips" he gives for free........

He promotes using WD-40 as a "waterless cleaning" method
and indicates "NO RUST" after rifles are stored for a period of
time......

I am sure this will give our resident "experts" heartburn as most
on here bash WD relentlessly...:rofl:
 

bigdave

Senior Member
it is well worth $20 to get the info. i am new to this stuff so i am trying to soak up as much info as possible to find what best works for me. flint that's an awsome group ! one thing i have learned is that in muzzleloading everyone does something different.
 

Redleaf

Senior Member
When you do your patch lube test, fix up enough patch cloth of each strength lube and go back and try repeating the test the next day and see if you get the same results.
 

bigdave

Senior Member
i am going to get out and start trying some stuff as soon as i get a break in the weather and honey do's
 

Redleaf

Senior Member
bigdave, when I test a new gun or barrel, I like to try at least two ball diameters and three or four different patch thicknesses. Its been my experience that the lube is a lot less important than the patch/ball combination. Also, resist the temptation to jump to conclusions based on one day of shooting. If I can get the same results on three different days, then I'll start believing it. All this depends too on what you're going to do with it. If all you want is enough accuracy to deer hunt with and don't take shots past 75 or 80 yards, then just about anything will work. If you want to play with your rifle and try to figure out the "best" accuracy you can get, that's going to lead to a lot of shooting and comparisons. That's where a lot of the fun is to me. Develop a loading regime that's easy to do consistently and go at it. A good range rod and plenty of wiping patches will be needed. I wipe with cotton flannel moistened with non ammonia dollar store glass cleaner. Water will work fine though. When you get down to two or three combinations that are all shooting pretty good, back it up to 100 yards to finalize your tests. Like a lot of things, getting properly prepared for the job is key. Have fun!
 

Redleaf

Senior Member
Patch cloth is important, so look for a twill weave 100% cotton. Jo-Anns fabric stores have a pretty good assortment. I keep patch cloths that mic from about .013 up to .022. Mattress ticking in the .020 to .022 range is tough cloth, bottom weight twill is tough too and its available in about .012 to .015 thicknesses. The ticking that WalMart sells is a little loose in the weave, but I know several shooters that use it and get good results. Some of the "drill" and canvas weaves work good too. Even denim, which is a twill weave works in a lot of guns. When testing, get in the habit of picking up every patch. Sometimes you'll find a gun/load that will only blow a patch every once in awhile, so if you look at the first two or three and they're ok, it might not be as "ok" as you think. I use a liquid lube all the time for target shooting and testing that is 16oz of Murphys oil soap, 16 oz of non ammonia glass cleaner, and 16oz of windshield washer fluid. I like to cut my patches at the muzzle and a cheap straight razor makes a good patch knife.
 

fishndinty

Senior Member
In terms of cleaner, an ammonia-based solvent would actually be preferable, since the cleaner's most important job is to neutralize the sulfuric acid produced as a by-product of the combustion of the blackpowder, pyrodex, etc.

Plain windex is a fantastic cleaner, followed by dry patching and a thin coat of RemLube or other gun oil before storage.
 

Alan in GA

Senior Member
good stuff....

I've just started getting 'back into' ML after years of not. Picked up THREE T/C Senecas, a Euroarms 'Kentuckian' 45 flinter, and still have the CVA Kentucky .50 I kit built a dozen or so years ago. Might be something else hiding in the safe I've forgotten.
You know what they say about getting older [63] and hiding your own Easter eggs : )
FYI: I still have a pound each of 'Clear' and 'Clean' Shot propellants. I don't care for cleanup of 'real' black powder but maybe I'll change, maybe not.
 

Muldoon

Senior Member
Here's some 'testing' by FPMIII:

100yd by Sharps Man, on Flickr

Two high shots were first two fired when learning how much of the front sight NOT to take from 100 yards.
 

Darkhorse

Senior Member
I shot this group earlier this year and found my eyesight has gotten worse and I was getting a couple of horizontal lines on the rear sight to choose from. The problem has been temporarily corrected for this deer season.
I keep it simple and use only crisco, wonderlube (last choice), Pure Mink Oil and Original LeHigh Valley Patchlube. I use 2 patching materials, .018 Pillow Ticking, and a less dense weave .015 cotton cloth.
With any combo of these my rifles shoot to same point of impact and same accuracy.
This is not as complicated as many shooters make it out to be.
This is a 10 shot group shot at 50 yards while sitting in a chair and using a shooting stick.
85 Grains of 3fg and a .530 roundball patched with the .015 material and wonderlube.
.54 Caliber Isacc Haines style Flintlock.
 

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SASS249

Senior Member
Two major pieces of wisdom in this thread:
From Bigdave: "one thing i have learned is that in muzzleloading everyone does something different"

and from Redleaf: " Develop a loading regime that's easy to do consistently and go at it"

There is no real right or wrong in shooting muzzleloaders, there is only what works for you and what does not. I always hesitate to tell folks how I do things, since they work well for me, but some go against the norm.

Best advice I can give is spend enough time to find out what works for you and then do it exactly the same way everytime.
 

Muldoon

Senior Member
Right or wrong.....

Two major pieces of wisdom in this thread:
From Bigdave: "one thing i have learned is that in muzzleloading everyone does something different"

and from Redleaf: " Develop a loading regime that's easy to do consistently and go at it"

There is no real right or wrong in shooting muzzleloaders, there is only what works for you and what does not. I always hesitate to tell folks how I do things, since they work well for me, but some go against the norm.

Best advice I can give is spend enough time to find out what works for you and then do it exactly the same way everytime.

:flag::fine::clap:
 
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