jmoser
Senior Member
This is how I glass bedded the recoil lug area on my Remington 700 Tactical .308 with Hogue Overmolded Stock. All pictures show the front action screw Pillar as a reference. I put a piece of scotch tape on the front of the lug for clearance - used the Brownells '1 Gun' kit from Cabelas / Midway.
1] With a Dremel tool and cylindrical cutting head relieve the material behind the recoil lug. This allows a thicker and even layer of the bedding compound. The red arrows here show where I removed material; you can see how thick the bedding is [Top left:]
2] With the same cutter held at an angle relieve a sloped cutout where the receiver area transitions to the lug. This is important to allow excess epoxy to flow out behind the lug and also provides significantly more surface area of support directly behind the lug [Top Right:]
Not Seen in the photos is that I 'stippled' the lug area with a Dremel tip to provide a grip for the Epoxy - in addition to the bottom 'floor' go horizontal into the four 'walls' so the epoxy plug is mechanically fixed into place.
3] In front of the lug where the first 'bulkhead' crosswise stiffener is use plumbers putty to build up a 'dam' so the epoxy does not ooze forward. Here you can see some leftover putty on the stiffener and how it kept the epoxy in place [Lower Left:]
4] After it all dried I found some epoxy had oozed up higher against the bbl on the left side so I just trimmed it off with a Dremel abrasive wheel. [You can clearly see where this was cut away.] It looks like its uneven but it actually is a very uniform support against the 5-to-7 O'Clock bbl area for about 5/16" on both sides of the lug. You can see how good of a fit the lug bedding is - that is the critical part [Lower Right.]
Gun shoots 1/2 MOA or better at 200M if you remove shooter error.
1] With a Dremel tool and cylindrical cutting head relieve the material behind the recoil lug. This allows a thicker and even layer of the bedding compound. The red arrows here show where I removed material; you can see how thick the bedding is [Top left:]
2] With the same cutter held at an angle relieve a sloped cutout where the receiver area transitions to the lug. This is important to allow excess epoxy to flow out behind the lug and also provides significantly more surface area of support directly behind the lug [Top Right:]
Not Seen in the photos is that I 'stippled' the lug area with a Dremel tip to provide a grip for the Epoxy - in addition to the bottom 'floor' go horizontal into the four 'walls' so the epoxy plug is mechanically fixed into place.
3] In front of the lug where the first 'bulkhead' crosswise stiffener is use plumbers putty to build up a 'dam' so the epoxy does not ooze forward. Here you can see some leftover putty on the stiffener and how it kept the epoxy in place [Lower Left:]
4] After it all dried I found some epoxy had oozed up higher against the bbl on the left side so I just trimmed it off with a Dremel abrasive wheel. [You can clearly see where this was cut away.] It looks like its uneven but it actually is a very uniform support against the 5-to-7 O'Clock bbl area for about 5/16" on both sides of the lug. You can see how good of a fit the lug bedding is - that is the critical part [Lower Right.]
Gun shoots 1/2 MOA or better at 200M if you remove shooter error.
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