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Old 12-01-2017, 08:47 AM
Phillipky1 Phillipky1 is offline
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Default Your favorite coyote set(s)

Will you describe one or more sets that have worked well for you on coyotes, including details on making the set? Sharing information will help all trappers be more successful... I am interested in hearing about any coyote set, but especially those sets that hold up well against rain.
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Old 12-01-2017, 07:42 PM
Phillipky1 Phillipky1 is offline
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Over 50 views the first day of the original post but no one has shared any info on their favorite sets. I can share the following technique so as to perhaps get the information exchange started. I know of two coyotes caught on a type of set made using a white plastic quart milk bottle. This is how I saw it done... throw the bottle top away, then lay the empty bottle down on its side with the open mouth pointed slightly down, wire the bottle down to two small stakes to keep a coyote from just running off with it and to keep the empty mouth of the bottle pointed toward the trap which is bedded about 10 inches in front of the bottle's mouth. Then put a little lure under the neck of the bottle and some bait down inside the neck of the bottle. The white color of the bottle acts as a visual attractor, and the baited open mouth of the bottle pointed at the trap acts like a dirt hole set. The bonus is that unlike a dirt hole set, rain will not drown out the bait. Note: if you catch a coyote it will chew the bottle into bits and you will have to use another bottle if you want to re-make the set the same as you made it the first time. This set is a type of what's called a "trash set". The concept is coyotes are used to finding food scraps in trash such as Burger King bags along the side of the road so they are prone to check out trash items on the ground. Thus the name "trash set".
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Old 12-01-2017, 07:50 PM
willie1971 willie1971 is offline
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I like this website for discussion for deer,cooking, etc. -- but if you want to look for info on trapping, go to trapperman.com. It is exhaustive and engaged throughout the trapping season. As for my personal experience with trap sets, I have had more luck with flat (natural) sets. Set your traps in areas where you see tracks, etc, and make sure you properly bed your traps. That is the key. Lures, bait etc is of minor importance if you don't have predators, and you don't bed your traps properly.
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Old 12-01-2017, 08:26 PM
Phillipky1 Phillipky1 is offline
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Originally Posted by willie1971 View Post
I like this website for discussion for deer,cooking, etc. -- but if you want to look for info on trapping, go to trapperman.com. It is exhaustive and engaged throughout the trapping season. As for my personal experience with trap sets, I have had more luck with flat (natural) sets. Set your traps in areas where you see tracks, etc, and make sure you properly bed your traps. That is the key. Lures, bait etc is of minor importance if you don't have predators, and you don't bed your traps properly.
Yes... Trapperman.com is a great website, I'm just hoping to see more locals thin out the coyotes in GA, and exchange information on this site about how people are doing it here. What are some things you use for backing and a scent holder at your flat sets?... I've seen big flat rocks used, I've seen a pile of rocks, I've also seen charred logs used, also overturned clumps of grass, maybe you use something that I have not heard of... I'm hoping to learn a new set-making technique from someone here. I like flat sets a lot since unlike dirt hole sets, they don't get drowned out so easily when it rains.
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Old 12-01-2017, 09:00 PM
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I like a tuft of grass as backing with a deep hole - driven by rebar - on each side on any trail intersection. a q-tip with gland lure in 1 hole, and a mouse/bait in the other hole - on each side of grass tuft. a few drops of fox pee cannot hurt. i've found backing needs to be only a few inches high.

sometimes i'll use a bone as a visual if trapping in an open field.

as for scent holders, i have a lot of test tubes that i'll put bait/lure/pee inside and drop in the hole. that way, the scent stays in the tube, and will not be absorbed by the earth hole as much. add cotton or sheeps wool in the tube, then apply lure, and drop in hole. this may stand up to rain a bit too. any plastic vial will work, too
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:49 AM
Phillipky1 Phillipky1 is offline
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Willie, you said earlier you mostly use flat sets... I assume you are calling this one a flat set because there is no fresh dirt scattered around since you are just punching a couple of holes with rebar rather than digging out a dirt hole with a trowel or other tool, and you are blending in the bedded trap using whatever natural ground litter is already there, and thus it qualifies as a flat set even though you are using dirt holes to hold the lure or bait. I have heard of a "double dirt hole" set where 2 holes are dug/punched about 4-6 inches apart just in front of the backing and then one trap is set centered between the holes but about 8-10 inches in front of the holes. Then a different lure or bait is used at each hole. But your set seems different, correct me if I'm wrong... it sounds like you are punching your two holes on opposite sides of your tuft of grass (backing), then putting out one trap on either side, with your tuft of grass right in the middle between the traps? I hope I'm correctly understanding your set, and thanks very much for sharing with others.
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Old 12-07-2017, 03:10 PM
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I have caught them on both dirt holes and post sets with a tire being the post. I have also tried to gang set road killed deer but without favorable results.
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:46 PM
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This is one of my favorite predator sets. Before season starts I find a good piece of oak about the size of my arm with a slight bend in it. If it has a natural hole in it like this one even better. If not Iíll drill a hole in it. For a little twist you can also put it in a fire for a minute to char it. Put some urine on the front and gland lure in the hole. The more critters you catch on it the better it gets. They chew on it and get all kinds of good smells on it. I think this one made it a little over a half a season. You can use about anything for a urine post, but I try to find something that wonít get destroyed first catch.
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Old 12-08-2017, 07:54 AM
willie1971 willie1971 is offline
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Originally Posted by Phillipky1 View Post
Willie, you said earlier you mostly use flat sets... I assume you are calling this one a flat set because there is no fresh dirt scattered around since you are just punching a couple of holes with rebar rather than digging out a dirt hole with a trowel or other tool, and you are blending in the bedded trap using whatever natural ground litter is already there, and thus it qualifies as a flat set even though you are using dirt holes to hold the lure or bait. I have heard of a "double dirt hole" set where 2 holes are dug/punched about 4-6 inches apart just in front of the backing and then one trap is set centered between the holes but about 8-10 inches in front of the holes. Then a different lure or bait is used at each hole. But your set seems different, correct me if I'm wrong... it sounds like you are punching your two holes on opposite sides of your tuft of grass (backing), then putting out one trap on either side, with your tuft of grass right in the middle between the traps? I hope I'm correctly understanding your set, and thanks very much for sharing with others.
Pretty much. Flat sets look natural, not flashy with a big hole. No digging deep trap beds... the trap is level with the ground. Just punch a small hole or 2 to add lures. This video is a good illustration of the flat set. I do 75% flat sets, and they handle rain water a bit better. Good luck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLwhB5ziS30
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Old 12-12-2017, 06:34 PM
Phillipky1 Phillipky1 is offline
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Default are you using 2 traps at 1 set?

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Originally Posted by willie1971 View Post
Pretty much. Flat sets look natural, not flashy with a big hole. No digging deep trap beds... the trap is level with the ground. Just punch a small hole or 2 to add lures. This video is a good illustration of the flat set. I do 75% flat sets, and they handle rain water a bit better. Good luck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLwhB5ziS30
Yes, the way I have seen the difference between dirt hole and flat set explained ... a dirt hole set has fresh disturbed dirt around the set which serves as a visual attractor whereas a flat set appears natural and undisturbed, just like the immediate area surrounding the set. The flat set may have something like a bone or a rock that serves as a visual attractor and/or backing but there is no disturbed earth where the trap is set. Back to your set with the tuft of grass as backing... I'm still not sure I'm 100% clear on it, are you using 2 traps at this set, one trap on each side of the tuft of grass.? For example, trap at 3 o'clock and trap at 9 o'clock with the tuft of grass in between the traps?

Last edited by Phillipky1; 12-12-2017 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 12-12-2017, 06:51 PM
Phillipky1 Phillipky1 is offline
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Default question/details on post set

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Originally Posted by SemperFi View Post
This is one of my favorite predator sets. Before season starts I find a good piece of oak about the size of my arm with a slight bend in it. If it has a natural hole in it like this one even better. If not Iíll drill a hole in it. For a little twist you can also put it in a fire for a minute to char it. Put some urine on the front and gland lure in the hole. The more critters you catch on it the better it gets. They chew on it and get all kinds of good smells on it. I think this one made it a little over a half a season. You can use about anything for a urine post, but I try to find something that wonít get destroyed first catch.
Thanks for sharing Semper Fi. I've seen coyotes caught on a post set where a telephone pole served as the post, gland lure spread on the pole about 10" off the ground, a little sprinkle of urine on the pole, and the trap bedded about 9-10" out from the lure on the pole ... of course it helps if the telephone pole happens to be right along the upwind side of where coyotes are traveling, in other words at a good location. I'm assuming you are driving your post in the ground or at least burying it a few inches in the ground so the post remains upright. Question: why do you select a post with a slight bend in it? It looks like from your excellent picture that the outside of the bend that is in the middle of the post is pointing at the spot where your trap is bedded and the top of the post is pointing slightly away from the trap. Why?
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Old 12-12-2017, 07:10 PM
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Default post set using a tire?

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Originally Posted by GAGE View Post
I have caught them on both dirt holes and post sets with a tire being the post. I have also tried to gang set road killed deer but without favorable results.
I have heard of setting a trap inside a tire that is laying on its side on the ground so that the coyote has to (theoretically) get over inside the empty circle of the tire to check out the bait/lure, but I don't know if it works. But you are talking about using a tire as a post set and that sounds different. Can you give some details of how you make that set? Thanks.
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Old 12-12-2017, 08:22 PM
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I have set 3 traps in a circle around deer carcasses buried about 6" deep. Between traps I put chunks of small dead trees to channel the yotes over the traps. Once the guts get aromatic after a week or so, the coyotes can't resist the bait and step on the traps on their way in. I've caught 4 so far this fall, not even dyed/waxed/cleaned traps or catch circle in between catches. I am convinced that gutpiles are a good way to cut the coyote population.
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Phillipky1 View Post
Thanks for sharing Semper Fi. I've seen coyotes caught on a post set where a telephone pole served as the post, gland lure spread on the pole about 10" off the ground, a little sprinkle of urine on the pole, and the trap bedded about 9-10" out from the lure on the pole ... of course it helps if the telephone pole happens to be right along the upwind side of where coyotes are traveling, in other words at a good location. I'm assuming you are driving your post in the ground or at least burying it a few inches in the ground so the post remains upright. Question: why do you select a post with a slight bend in it? It looks like from your excellent picture that the outside of the bend that is in the middle of the post is pointing at the spot where your trap is bedded and the top of the post is pointing slightly away from the trap. Why?

I bury them a few inches in the ground. This particular post the main portion was straight up and down and the top was angled slightly away from the trap. The top angled away from the trap is to try and deter them from going around to the backside. The set above is actually the remake from this cat catch. I actually catch more cats and raccoons in this type of set than I do coyotes. Raccoons will walk right past a dp to check out a post set for some reason.
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:21 PM
willie1971 willie1971 is offline
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Originally Posted by Phillipky1 View Post
Yes, the way I have seen the difference between dirt hole and flat set explained ... a dirt hole set has fresh disturbed dirt around the set which serves as a visual attractor whereas a flat set appears natural and undisturbed, just like the immediate area surrounding the set. The flat set may have something like a bone or a rock that serves as a visual attractor and/or backing but there is no disturbed earth where the trap is set. Back to your set with the tuft of grass as backing... I'm still not sure I'm 100% clear on it, are you using 2 traps at this set, one trap on each side of the tuft of grass.? For example, trap at 3 o'clock and trap at 9 o'clock with the tuft of grass in between the traps?
You can use 2 traps if you want. Instead, I use a few sticks and small rocks outside of the trap to guide them in. you can use anything as backing -- a large stone, small log, twigs; whatever it takes to have them come around and walk into your trap. Just make sure they can see over your backing, so as not to spook them too much
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Old 12-13-2017, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillipky1 View Post
I have heard of setting a trap inside a tire that is laying on its side on the ground so that the coyote has to (theoretically) get over inside the empty circle of the tire to check out the bait/lure, but I don't know if it works. But you are talking about using a tire as a post set and that sounds different. Can you give some details of how you make that set? Thanks.
What I did is set an old tire in a cut field/food plot to where it sticks out real good. While I had fair success with putting bait inside the tire, I had better luck using it as as scent post to where I would just spray a little urine on the outside of it and set a 550 6-8 inches off it.
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Old 12-13-2017, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bronikjb View Post
I have set 3 traps in a circle around deer carcasses buried about 6" deep. Between traps I put chunks of small dead trees to channel the yotes over the traps. Once the guts get aromatic after a week or so, the coyotes can't resist the bait and step on the traps on their way in. I've caught 4 so far this fall, not even dyed/waxed/cleaned traps or catch circle in between catches. I am convinced that gutpiles are a good way to cut the coyote population.
Looks like you would catch more buzzards than coyotes, though.
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Old 12-13-2017, 02:49 PM
bronikjb bronikjb is offline
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Not so far. Burying carcass 6" or so and close to some overhanging limbs has worked so far. I have had more buzzard action than I wanted from conventional dirt hole sets in the past
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Old 12-14-2017, 09:58 PM
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I like to make flat sets next to remakes after making a catch. Clump of grass with a few rebar holes in front of it with gland lure and castor and trap bed blended.
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Old 12-15-2017, 11:17 AM
Phillipky1 Phillipky1 is offline
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Default tire set

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Originally Posted by GAGE View Post
What I did is set an old tire in a cut field/food plot to where it sticks out real good. While I had fair success with putting bait inside the tire, I had better luck using it as as scent post to where I would just spray a little urine on the outside of it and set a 550 6-8 inches off it.
OK, Thanks for the clarification.
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Old 01-06-2018, 01:23 PM
Phillipky1 Phillipky1 is offline
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Default Charred wood at flat sets?

Does anyone use charred wood as a visual attractor and lure holder for a flat set? I have seen this work on several coyotes: a 24 - 30" long piece of firewood, slightly burned (charred) on the top side, with a 1/2" diameter hole (to hold the lure) drilled in the side of the wood, hole angled slightly up so rain will not run in and dilute the lure, hole located right in the middle of the length of the wood (can also use two holes 4-6" apart with 2 different lures), with the trap bedded 8-10" from the hole holding the lure. Sprinkle coyote or fox urine on the charred top of the firewood. A piece of split firewood works well because it has a flat bottom so it will not roll and shift position if nudged by the coyote. If the firewood is round you can use an ax to make it flat on the bottom. The ideal stick of wood is curved rather than straight, with the hole for the lure in the inside of the curve, so that the ends of the firewood serve to guide the coyote's foot toward the center where the trap is bedded. Or if you have a piece of firewood with a fork at one end, this will create a curve that will serve to guide the foot toward the trap.
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Old 01-07-2018, 12:42 AM
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Well, call me crazy, but my experience is a lot of that stuff is just too complicated and not worth the time to do it. It's more appeal to the trapper than the critter. Kinda like fishing lures are made to catch fishermen more than fish... I'm no pro, but I've snagged about 20-30 yotes in the few years I've trapped. I really don't bother with visual appeal too much because they are coming at night anyway. They go 95% by scent. Maybe a few feathers

I started out doing the flat / post, charred wood stake, angled / drilled lure holder, cotton ball, goofy backing stuff (skulls, antlers, eetc) and a whole other bunch of funny stuff that I read online that people do...

What did I get for all that? Nothing. Not the first yote.

You know what I found works? 4 things that are important when trapping coyotes. Throw the whole rest of the trapping book in the garbage.

1. Scent control: rubber boots, rubber gloves, don't touch the dirt or anything with bare hands, and don't touch yourself with rubber gloves! And just as important, spend as little time as possible setting the trap, and get out of there. The coyote will still know you were there but the less and more faint of human scent the more comfortable they will be.
2. Location! You won't catch them if they don't frequent the area. Roads, trails, field edges are great, but I have been catching lots in the woods near thick stuff where they hunt rabbits.
3. Guide that foot! Granted I trap mostly in the woods, most people tell me I use too much guiding. I don't think so. I use sticks, as well as leaves, pine straw, and whatever else is around to guide. The trap pan should be the lowest, quietest spot to step and they basically don't have a choice but to step there.
4. Be patient. I've had traps set for 2+ weeks with nothing, only to go out and have double coyotes in one night. Coyotes move around quite a bit, they may be out of your area for weeks, then the pack moves in for a few days and you catch several

I used to agonize, what am I doing wrong?? Do I need to adjust, fine tune my technique? Nope. When they are in the area, I've caught them on the sloppiest remakes again and again.

So I'm down to k.i.s.s., keep it super simple. Take this year for example. I dug a hole with a shovel and laid a dead chicken in it. Set a trap about a foot in front of it. Had a coyote next morning. She tore up the whole set with a catch circle. In a hurry, I sloppily reset the trap and had another in a few days. Then I set a bunch more traps but caught 2 more in the same torn up set with hardly any chicken left in the hole! All I did was reset the trap and guide guide guide with sticks and leaves, and they stepped there to go sniff the chicken hole.
I've trapped plenty though with commercial baits and lures, but never had more success than a regular dirt hole, couple inches wide by 6-12 in. deep. Grind your food based bait around in the hole with a stick, put a drop of gland lure above the hole somewhere. Not saying flat sets don't work, just that if they miss the trap the first time the walk up, with a dirt hole they may linger longer and try to dig up what's in the hole and get one of their back legs caught.

It has taught me especially this year that all the other crazy stuff I was doing mentioned above was useless and took too much time and effort. Don't overthink it! Just do the 4 things I mentioned above, and you will catch coyotes. Oh, and use a screen pan cover and bed SUPER thin. As in barely cover the screen with dirt.

Wow, that got long, sorry for the rant!
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Last edited by mpwarrak; 01-07-2018 at 01:22 AM.
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:13 AM
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I play around with charred wood some. This set was a piece of firewood I put in the ground and then put some pine straw around it and lit it on fire. I put it out with yote urine. If I have some good pieces of wood in the fire pit come trapping time Iíll take some out with me and use for backing. Iíve caught fox and coyotes with it. Does it help out? I donít know. As stated above I think setting on sign is more important. Next would be a solid bedded trap.
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Old 01-12-2018, 02:13 PM
Phillipky1 Phillipky1 is offline
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Well the pros say that coyotes are curious and many times they will investigate things that arouse their curiosity, which is why visual attractors can be useful. And I believe this applies even at night; the game camera photos/videos I have of coyotes indicate they have no problems seeing at night. But I do agree with you on the 4 things you feel are most important; in fact I will list your 4 things again for emphasis for any new trappers reading these posts. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
"1. Scent control: rubber boots, rubber gloves, don't touch the dirt or anything with bare hands, and don't touch yourself with rubber gloves! And just as important, spend as little time as possible setting the trap, and get out of there. The coyote will still know you were there but the less and more faint of human scent the more comfortable they will be.
2. Location! You won't catch them if they don't frequent the area. Roads, trails, field edges are great, but I have been catching lots in the woods near thick stuff where they hunt rabbits.
3. Guide that foot! Granted I trap mostly in the woods, most people tell me I use too much guiding. I don't think so. I use sticks, as well as leaves, pine straw, and whatever else is around to guide. The trap pan should be the lowest, quietest spot to step and they basically don't have a choice but to step there.
4. Be patient. I've had traps set for 2+ weeks with nothing, only to go out and have double coyotes in one night. Coyotes move around quite a bit, they may be out of your area for weeks, then the pack moves in for a few days and you catch several"
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Old 01-12-2018, 02:47 PM
Phillipky1 Phillipky1 is offline
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I forgot to add that I agree with you about using chicken/chicken scraps for bait, it works. And you are right: re-setting a trap after a catch is super effective, all that scent from the previously caught coyote is irresistible to other coyotes. I also agree with you about using a pan cover. For any new trappers reading this, the screen referred to for use as a pan cover is window screen available from a hardware store... some use metal screen while others use the fiberglass type, a pair of shears or scissors is used to cut it to the right size to fit over the trap pan, or pre-cut screens are available from a trapping supply house. And if it has recently rained when you are setting your traps it is hard to use wet dirt to cover the trap because it won't go through the sifter well. So some trappers bring a bucket of dry dirt with them, or bring some peat moss they bought from the local garden supply store. Best to only use peat moss over the trap and not get any under the trap as the spongy quality of the peat moss makes it hard to bed the trap solid if you get it under the trap. Then the peat moss can be covered with a very thin layer of pine straw, or grass, or leaves or whatever ground cover is nearby. Use shears or scissors to chop up the grass/straw/ leaves somewhat; otherwise you might have a large clump of it gum up the trap jaws so they don't close enough and this might allow the coyote to pull his foot out, smaller pieces are less likely to cause a problem. That's my two cents of additional info.
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