Complete novice to tractors and have a question . . .

rospaw

Senior Member
Even if only HALF the life is left in a real farm use tractor, you won't wear it out in your life time on 10-20 acres.

Great point! :smash:

The one issue many have is the financing part where you have to buy a new one. i understand that but am not one to do it. I would buy a 50's 8N ford for cash before financing a new tractor.
 

K80Shooter

Senior Member
It depends on what you are cutting. If you are just clipping the tops of a fescue field, I would say you are correct. If it is tough weeds that are waist high, mixed with woody, stemmy plants, it probably isn't going to cut it.

I had a Ford 3000 diesel that had 38 PTO HP. It would pull a 6ft bush hog. I had a Ford 2000 diesel that had 31 PTO HP. It was marginal in the higher rougher stuff.

I also had a MF 245 gas burner that was suppose to have 43 PTO HP, but it wouldn't pull the bushhog as good as the 2000. Engine torque has a lot to do with how a tractor performs. Maybe even more so than the raw HP rating.

Like I said, it depends on the tractor and how it's set up. I've cut stuff that I couldn't even see over while sitting in the seat. I will say that on that stuff I did have to make two passes to get it like I wanted it.
 

Bama1787

Member
As others have said, don't rule out buying used quite yet. 6 months ago I made the decision to go used (very used) and buy a 1966 MF135 diesel as my first tractor for my newly acquired 10 acres. 40ish hp. I was very close to financing one of the package deals on a new tractor. Words cannot describe how impressed I've been with the old tractor. Perfect for my 10 acres. I've got a 5' bush hog and know for sure you'll want to go bigger for 19 acres but a 40-50 hp tractor should suit you fine.

Now if your financial situation allows you to buy new outright, more power to ya!
 

rospaw

Senior Member
As others have said, don't rule out buying used quite yet. 6 months ago I made the decision to go used (very used) and buy a 1966 MF135 diesel as my first tractor for my newly acquired 10 acres. 40ish hp. I was very close to financing one of the package deals on a new tractor. Words cannot describe how impressed I've been with the old tractor. Perfect for my 10 acres. I've got a 5' bush hog and know for sure you'll want to go bigger for 19 acres but a 40-50 hp tractor should suit you fine.

Now if your financial situation allows you to buy new outright, more power to ya![/QUOTE

"1966 MF135 diesel" is a great tractor! Those have been diehard tractors for smaller (less than 100ac) farms. You would be amazed how much work a 135 will do and can normally be bought for less than 4k in very good condition. It will pull a 6' bushhog and do a good job doing it. Great all-around Tractor.
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
My thoughts: Used bigger tractor. At least 45 horsepower. As someone said, you won't wear it out. My cousins next door are still using the Ford 3000 that my great-uncle bought back in the late 60s.

1000% get a 4wd. You will be able to do twice as much with it.

The more gears, the more you will get out of it. I prefer three gear ranges to two all day.
 

Milkman

Deer Farmer Moderator
Staff member
If you intend to haul the tractor the weight is a BIG factor. Don’t buy something you can’t haul.
 

RinggoldGa

Senior Member
As others have said, don't rule out buying used quite yet. 6 months ago I made the decision to go used (very used) and buy a 1966 MF135 diesel as my first tractor for my newly acquired 10 acres. 40ish hp. I was very close to financing one of the package deals on a new tractor. Words cannot describe how impressed I've been with the old tractor. Perfect for my 10 acres. I've got a 5' bush hog and know for sure you'll want to go bigger for 19 acres but a 40-50 hp tractor should suit you fine.

Now if your financial situation allows you to buy new outright, more power to ya!

Already looking at some 40+ hp 3-4 year old tractors with less than 100 hrs. Will have some decisions to make.

Financially I could buy a new one in that price range. But then my wife would kill me.
 

Dirtroad Johnson

Senior Member
Already looking at some 40+ hp 3-4 year old tractors with less than 100 hrs. Will have some decisions to make.

Financially I could buy a new one in that price range. But then my wife would kill me.

Google tractor data & look at the specs on any tractor your interested in, it will list a lot of good info such as lift strength,etc.
 

RinggoldGa

Senior Member
Update

Getting a new Branson 4815 47HP

Could probably get by with lower HP but everyone here, everyone I've spoken to, and people I hardly know all said to go higher HP than what I needed.

Coming with a 6 ft bush hog and a 6ft tiller. Looking forward to getting in the seat for the first time and giving it a whirl with the bush hog. Had a guy cut hay off about 12 acres of the property and pay me for the pleasure of doing so. I'm going to tackle the rest and all the edges with the bush hog on my own. May be a comedy of errors but no better way to learn than by doing.

Thanks for all the advice here.
 

Crakajak

Daily Driveler News Team
Update

Getting a new Branson 4815 47HP

Could probably get by with lower HP but everyone here, everyone I've spoken to, and people I hardly know all said to go higher HP than what I needed.

Coming with a 6 ft bush hog and a 6ft tiller. Looking forward to getting in the seat for the first time and giving it a whirl with the bush hog. Had a guy cut hay off about 12 acres of the property and pay me for the pleasure of doing so. I'm going to tackle the rest and all the edges with the bush hog on my own. May be a comedy of errors but no better way to learn than by doing.

Thanks for all the advice here.

Congrats on the equipment.
When you start tilling.Go with a small depth and increase each time(maybe 2-3 " to reach maximum depth.I throw the rocks out after every pass. Those rocks can eat up some expensive tiller blades.Don't ask me how I found that out.
 

RinggoldGa

Senior Member
Congrats on the equipment.
When you start tilling.Go with a small depth and increase each time(maybe 2-3 " to reach maximum depth.I throw the rocks out after every pass. Those rocks can eat up some expensive tiller blades.Don't ask me how I found that out.

This is what makes me nervous. I don't know crap about what I'm doing. The equipment isn't cheap. And the field is pretty rocky.

You're one of several that have told me to go with small increments. I live in fear of tearing the new equipment upon the on the first pass with the tiller.
 

champ

Senior Member
There's a Guy on Youtube out of NC. His channel is called 'everything attachments' He and His buddy Peanut have a ton of videos on proper use, safety, and optimizing tips for most implements a Man can use behind His tractor. Congrats on Your new machine and BE SAFE!
 

RinggoldGa

Senior Member
There's a Guy on Youtube out of NC. His channel is called 'everything attachments' He and His buddy Peanut have a ton of videos on proper use, safety, and optimizing tips for most implements a Man can use behind His tractor. Congrats on Your new machine and BE SAFE!

I am spending my nights watching you tube videos and have seen several of his and they were very informative. I'll continue to watch and learn as much as I can. I have a very healthy fear of heavy equipment and am fortunate to have quite a few friends who are going to take some time to teach me how to go about this stuff safely.
 

Crakajak

Daily Driveler News Team
This is what makes me nervous. I don't know crap about what I'm doing. The equipment isn't cheap. And the field is pretty rocky.

You're one of several that have told me to go with small increments. I live in fear of tearing the new equipment upon the on the first pass with the tiller.

You might get the forestry service to come plow up the food plot the first time to break up the soil and turn over any rocks.
 

elfiii

Admin
Staff member
This is what makes me nervous. I don't know crap about what I'm doing. The equipment isn't cheap. And the field is pretty rocky.

You're one of several that have told me to go with small increments. I live in fear of tearing the new equipment upon the on the first pass with the tiller.

You are now officially a tractor driver 3rd class. Once you have busted enough equipment to learn what you are doing you will promote to tractor operator 1st class.:bounce:

Hot tip #1 - buy a bunch of extra hitch pins (to replace the ones you will lose or break) and 1/2" Grade 8 bolts. Keep them somewhere on the tractor along with the required tools to change out snapped and sheared off 1/2" bolts. This will save you time making field repairs and you will promote to tractor operator quicker.

Hot tip #2 - "Smooth is slow. Slow is fast.";)
 

Crakajak

Daily Driveler News Team
You are now officially a tractor driver 3rd class. Once you have busted enough equipment to learn what you are doing you will promote to tractor operator 1st class.:bounce:

Hot tip #1 - buy a bunch of extra hitch pins (to replace the ones you will lose or break) and 1/2" Grade 8 bolts. Keep them somewhere on the tractor along with the required tools to change out snapped and sheared off 1/2" bolts. This will save you time making field repairs and you will promote to tractor operator quicker.

Hot tip #2 - "Smooth is slow. Slow is fast.";)

Great advice!!!
Its also good to be friends with a good welder.
I installed a small used ammo case behind my seat. Extra bolts,shear pins,rags.screwdrivers,pliers.washers etc...Saves me a LOT of walking or riding back to the truck.
 

elfiii

Admin
Staff member
Great advice!!!
Its also good to be friends with a good welder.
I installed a small used ammo case behind my seat. Extra bolts,shear pins,rags.screwdrivers,pliers.washers etc...Saves me a LOT of walking or riding back to the truck.

My New Holland has a storage bin built in. I figured out what it was for pretty quick.:bounce:
 

champ

Senior Member
Can't get enough of those safety tips... like "If it feels dangerous, it most certainly is."
 

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