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  #51  
Old 04-13-2018, 12:31 PM
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Thanks Darkhorse.
I inlet the middle pipe into that location last night and started back on the entry pipe, but didn't do much more.

On thing I can't emphasize enough is finding good detail photos of similar styles, which is some research I did last night. Finding good photos of entry pipes on Lancaster style rifles with a similar flare on the pipe tail. It really helps get your head around shaping of the wood and options.

So while I "knew" the forearm was still pretty beefy and flat, I think I now see how to round and taper this portion and then hopefully blend the wood shapes back to the front of the trigger guard. All in all, its going to end up a much more svelte and shapely rifle than if I had just kept all that wood as it came from TVM.
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  #52  
Old 04-13-2018, 02:09 PM
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FWIW I've just inletted the entry pipe whole and straight down. Next time I'll do like I suggested and inlet a plain pipe first and get it level and to where the rr passes through easily. The problem with inletting it whole is getting the pipe straight and level.
As for drawing a line down the center of your stock let me add, draw 3 lines, one for the center and a line for both sides of the tab. Find the center of the tab and make a small mark. By using these reference points you can get it straight. It's easy to end up with that tab a little crooked.
I'll try and get a few photos and post them later.
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  #53  
Old 04-14-2018, 01:06 AM
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I don't know if these photo's will help much. On most of them the rifles are canted a little, I thought that might help show some perspective but to me it makes the rifles look warped.
The brass rifle was built 20 years ago and is my main deer rifle. It has a C profile barrel whereas the steel mounted rifle has a B profile barrel so it is the slimmer of the two.
On both of them I inlet the entry pipe and tail down until it was at the right depth, this put the tail well below the surface of the wood. When I finished the stock I filed and sanded the wood maintaining the same radius of the tail until they were flush. One of the photos shows the bottom of the brass rifle and how the flat in front of the trigger guard was blended into the radius of the stock.
The stock in this area runs in a straight line to the barrel where a curve is filed to a knife edge contacting the barrel. This continues to just ahead of the entry pipe where I begin to round the stock and blend it into the round or heart shape of the forend which continues to the end of the barrel.
Looking at the bottom of the steel mounted gun this rounding has began and notice where the stock has faded from sight where it contacts the barrel. The side view shows it a little better, the light reflection line shows where the actual rounding peaks as you go down the stock.
Look at your rifle for a while and plan how you plan to proceed. Make pencil marks where you intend to round the stock. Burn a mental picture in your mind of how you want it to look then make it happen. Remember the forend must have a good round shape if not it will look flat and slabsided.
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  #54  
Old 04-14-2018, 12:12 PM
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Here is a link to a Isacc Haines build, there may be a couple of pictures that will help you visualize how it all fits together.

http://www.hootalrifleshop.org/Isaac...0Rifle%202.htm
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  #55  
Old 04-14-2018, 08:51 PM
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Thank you Darkhorse. That last photo of yours is really helpful.
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  #56  
Old 04-14-2018, 10:28 PM
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That rifle is starting to show it's age. A lot of little marks on the wood from climbing in and out of deerstands. A lot of the browning has worn off. But the rifle is very fast and very accurate.
I think next year I'm going to go ahead and do some work on the stock and metal.
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  #57  
Old 04-15-2018, 07:43 AM
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You’re doing great Leoparddog. I’m enjoying watching your progress. However, if you and Darkhorse don’t stop this I’ll be forced to order a box of parts and build another gun. It’s been8-10 years since I built my last flintlock. I love them. Id really like to try a FL pistol.
Cant wait to see the finished product.
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  #58  
Old 04-16-2018, 10:16 PM
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Almost there. I think I've worked on this entry thimble about 6 hours or more. Next time will be faster I'm sure. Just a hair more to go. The ram rod goes in and out easily now and I think I may need to sink it just a few hundred thou more to get it flush with the current bottom of the handguard.

I drew some lines but they are getting faint and I'll refresh them before going back to shaping the hand guard. I think this was harder than the buttplate.

Thanks Darkhorse for all the advice and help.
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  #59  
Old 04-16-2018, 10:20 PM
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Looks a whole lot better with some of that wood removed. Your getting there Leoparddog, you are right, the next one will be easier.
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  #60  
Old 04-16-2018, 10:39 PM
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Next time I'll put this thimble in earlier rather than later. I removed about .15" from the bottom of the forearm to shallow up the RR channel and then that led to forearm shaping before the thimbles went in. Its obvious now that the forearm is thinner on one side of this thimble than on the other. I'll get it worked out I'm sure, but another lesson learned.

Get the ramrod channel the way you want it and then get this and the other thimbles inletted so they can serve as a visual balance point for thinning down the sides.
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  #61  
Old 04-17-2018, 01:32 AM
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Here is a photo of a finished forearm from the muzzle. This is a good example, if you do it just like this your rifle will look fine. If it is flattened instead of being well rounded it will look slabsided.
I would have filed it straight from the ramrod rails to the curve, cutting out that little bit of sorta round material on the bottom sides. Then blend it with the top radius with blocked sandpaper. I think that would make the shape of the forearm more prominent.
JMHO
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