transfixer
Senior Member
As others have said , the 6cyl is the better choice , especially if you're going to use tires other than stock size, that little 4cyl has to work too hard and ends up burning just as much fuel as a larger motor.
That depends on what it has in it already.
If you put tires with a greater or smaller circumference on the drive axle of a vehicle and don't change the Ring and Pinion you will have change the ratio where the rubber meets the road. That is why you have to re-calibrate the speedometer if you put on tires with more or less circumference.
https://www.intercotire.com/tire_size_change_gear_ratio_calculator
Yes, and like I said it depends on what it comes with from the factory.
If you have the 3.21 or 3.73 rear end, you will need to regear.
If you have the 4.10 rear end, you can put up to 33's on it without a regear because that is the optimal differential for a 32-33" tire, and you will get better performance because the 30" factory tires were too small for a 4.10 to operate at peak efficiency. With the 4.10 I was able to still use 5th gear when needed, and I got great gas mileage with 33's. It actually improved over the factory tires.
If you want more than 33's, you'll need A) a bigger lift, or a body lift in addition to a 4" suspension lift, B) a differential regear to 4.88 or 5.38 if you really get up there, AND C) a stronger rear axle and differential, because that dana 35 is gonna be tearing up axle shafts with all that extra weight and strain if you do any hardcore rockcrawling and offroading. 33's are as big as that rear end can handle no matter what it's geared to, it's too frail to spin 35"+ tires on 35 splines ( lots of folks have trouble with them on smaller tires than that!). You'd need a D44 for up to 37's, and a D60 or equivalent if you want REALLY big tires and lift on it and intend to beat it up. The ford 8.8 axle, chopped to fit, is a very popular option to upgrade the rear.
You also need to correct drive line angle no matter what, either with axle shims, a transfer case drop, or both. A lengthened drive shaft will also likely be necessary.
You will need to change the speedometer gear in the transfer case no matter what size tires--smaller or larger-- you put on it if they are not the same size as stock.
If you want a lifted jeep, I highly recommend buying one stock and doing the needed upgrades yourself. If someone else did it, have it vetted by a good offroad speciality shop before buying. Lots of folks are out there only doing cosmetic improvements without taking into account mechanical corrections to accomodate them.
Good Info and I agree, but I never said you had to re-gear. I said that bigger tires change the ratio and puts a bigger strain on the engine. That is why I would go with a six cylinder.
In my second post I was just pointing out if you made any change in tire size larger or small tires you changed the actual gear ratio at the the ground.
And I have owned a few jeeps. Best one was a 1977 by AMC before Chrysler took them over. Biggest problem with it wash the windshield leaking and it running into the radio. Never could stop it from leaking.
Check out the jeep forums. I hsve seen alot of posts on that motor.Has anyone driven or own a 2.0 turbo hybrid Jeep? Didn't know anything about them but apparently its the new "Great" thing. 8sd auto too. With engine stop/start.
Price seems ok just concerned about new technology.
Jeeps are really fun and I've enjoyed the ones I have had. I will probably get another.
Jeeps are junk. They are other vehicles like that you can take the doors and top off of. Practically every company which made a similar vehicle did a better job for quality and reliability. Look into older 4runners. Don't buy anything with an automatic transmission, a carburetor, a rusty frame or a big lift kit.