4 cyl wrangler

transfixer

Senior Member
As others have said , the 6cyl is the better choice , especially if you're going to use tires other than stock size, that little 4cyl has to work too hard and ends up burning just as much fuel as a larger motor.
 

fireman32

"Useless Billy" Fire Chief.
I agree, no replacement for displacement. I had an 89 yj with the 258 6 cylinder, 5 speed manual down here in flat country. 2.5 suspension lift with 31 10.50 tires. Rarely drove it in fifth.
Hated to sell it, love that it’s gone.
JEEP= just empty every pocket.
 

Jim Baker

Moderator
Staff member

zedex

Gator Bait
I have a 6cyl wrangler. Had the 4cyl but that thing was pathetic in the power department.
Where I live, we have hills everywhere, some flat land and mountains to play in.
The 4cyl model was ok in the flats but as soon as I got to a slight incline, speed dropped off faster than a airplane out of fuel. Even fully loaded log trucks would pass me.
So, I got the 6cyl. No speed problems. It will go almost 80mph. I've taken into the mountains in deep snow.
The only problem I encountered is the clutch.... lost pedal resistance and replaced everything.... flywheel, clutch friction plate, release bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder...... got clutch pedal for about 20 minutes then lost it again. Rebled the system and same issue.
Replaced everything again. Repeated issue. Replaced everything again from different manufacturer. Same issue
Even had a new hydraulic line made ( no one sells new ones for mine). Issue is ongoing.
Its baffled transmission shops. Not sure what to do at this point.
Keep forums are loaded with suggestions for the problem..
So, no matter the jeep, keep this in mind
 

delacroix

BANNED
Jeeps are really fun and I've enjoyed the ones I have had. I will probably get another.

Jeeps are junk. They are other vehicles like that you can take the doors and top off of. Practically every company which made a similar vehicle did a better job for quality and reliability. Look into older 4runners. Don't buy anything with an automatic transmission, a carburetor, a rusty frame or a big lift kit.
 

Thunder Head

Gone but not forgotten
I had a 1989 4 cyl for 15 years.

I bought it with a little over 100,000 miles on it. One of the cylinders didn't have great compression at the time. I always intended to put a 6 in it when she blew. She finally blew at 140,000 miles. I was ready for some thing new. So I dropped a rebuild in it. See it all the time around town still putting along.

The worst thing on it was the throttle body carburetor. That thing was a pain. Other than that I didn't do anything other than normal maint. Had 31s and a 3 inch lift.

It was underpowered for sure. Unless I could get a real deal on a 4 cyl. id go with the 6.
 

ryanh487

Senior Member
If you put tires with a greater or smaller circumference on the drive axle of a vehicle and don't change the Ring and Pinion you will have change the ratio where the rubber meets the road. That is why you have to re-calibrate the speedometer if you put on tires with more or less circumference.

https://www.intercotire.com/tire_size_change_gear_ratio_calculator

Yes, and like I said it depends on what it comes with from the factory.

If you have the 3.21 or 3.73 rear end, you will need to regear.

If you have the 4.10 rear end, you can put up to 33's on it without a regear because that is the optimal differential for a 32-33" tire, and you will get better performance because the 30" factory tires were too small for a 4.10 to operate at peak efficiency. With the 4.10 I was able to still use 5th gear when needed, and I got great gas mileage with 33's. It actually improved over the factory tires.

If you want more than 33's, you'll need A) a bigger lift, or a body lift in addition to a 4" suspension lift, B) a differential regear to 4.88 or 5.38 if you really get up there, AND C) a stronger rear axle and differential, because that dana 35 is gonna be tearing up axle shafts with all that extra weight and strain if you do any hardcore rockcrawling and offroading. 33's are as big as that rear end can handle no matter what it's geared to, it's too frail to spin 35"+ tires on 35 splines ( lots of folks have trouble with them on smaller tires than that!). You'd need a D44 for up to 37's, and a D60 or equivalent if you want REALLY big tires and lift on it and intend to beat it up. The ford 8.8 axle, chopped to fit, is a very popular option to upgrade the rear.

You also need to correct drive line angle no matter what, either with axle shims, a transfer case drop, or both. A lengthened drive shaft will also likely be necessary.

You will need to change the speedometer gear in the transfer case no matter what size tires--smaller or larger-- you put on it if they are not the same size as stock.

If you want a lifted jeep, I highly recommend buying one stock and doing the needed upgrades yourself. If someone else did it, have it vetted by a good offroad speciality shop before buying. Lots of folks are out there only doing cosmetic improvements without taking into account mechanical corrections to accomodate them.
 

Jim Baker

Moderator
Staff member
Yes, and like I said it depends on what it comes with from the factory.

If you have the 3.21 or 3.73 rear end, you will need to regear.

If you have the 4.10 rear end, you can put up to 33's on it without a regear because that is the optimal differential for a 32-33" tire, and you will get better performance because the 30" factory tires were too small for a 4.10 to operate at peak efficiency. With the 4.10 I was able to still use 5th gear when needed, and I got great gas mileage with 33's. It actually improved over the factory tires.

If you want more than 33's, you'll need A) a bigger lift, or a body lift in addition to a 4" suspension lift, B) a differential regear to 4.88 or 5.38 if you really get up there, AND C) a stronger rear axle and differential, because that dana 35 is gonna be tearing up axle shafts with all that extra weight and strain if you do any hardcore rockcrawling and offroading. 33's are as big as that rear end can handle no matter what it's geared to, it's too frail to spin 35"+ tires on 35 splines ( lots of folks have trouble with them on smaller tires than that!). You'd need a D44 for up to 37's, and a D60 or equivalent if you want REALLY big tires and lift on it and intend to beat it up. The ford 8.8 axle, chopped to fit, is a very popular option to upgrade the rear.

You also need to correct drive line angle no matter what, either with axle shims, a transfer case drop, or both. A lengthened drive shaft will also likely be necessary.

You will need to change the speedometer gear in the transfer case no matter what size tires--smaller or larger-- you put on it if they are not the same size as stock.

If you want a lifted jeep, I highly recommend buying one stock and doing the needed upgrades yourself. If someone else did it, have it vetted by a good offroad speciality shop before buying. Lots of folks are out there only doing cosmetic improvements without taking into account mechanical corrections to accomodate them.

Good Info and I agree, but I never said you had to re-gear. I said that bigger tires change the ratio and puts a bigger strain on the engine. That is why I would go with a six cylinder.

In my second post I was just pointing out if you made any change in tire size larger or small tires you changed the actual gear ratio at the the ground.

And I have owned a few jeeps. Best one was a 1977 by AMC before Chrysler took them over. Biggest problem with it wash the windshield leaking and it running into the radio. Never could stop it from leaking.
 

ryanh487

Senior Member
Good Info and I agree, but I never said you had to re-gear. I said that bigger tires change the ratio and puts a bigger strain on the engine. That is why I would go with a six cylinder.

In my second post I was just pointing out if you made any change in tire size larger or small tires you changed the actual gear ratio at the the ground.

And I have owned a few jeeps. Best one was a 1977 by AMC before Chrysler took them over. Biggest problem with it wash the windshield leaking and it running into the radio. Never could stop it from leaking.

My 95 leaked like a sieve. Around the windhsield, around the glass moonroof in the hard top, around the glass hatch on the back of the hardtop, through gaps in the doors, etc. I didn't even try to fix it, just left the doors off April through October anyway and never left anything in it that couldn't get wet. I had the carpet torn out and water resistant seat covers, and after 1 stereo got fried in a torrential downpour I got caught in with the top down I replaced it with a boat stereo with soldered connections, packed with dialectic grease and covered in heat shrink. Never had another issue again other than a damp pair of pants every now and then.
 

ucfireman

Senior Member
Has anyone driven or own a 2.0 turbo hybrid Jeep? Didn't know anything about them but apparently its the new "Great" thing. 8sd auto too. With engine stop/start.
Price seems ok just concerned about new technology.
 

hopper

Senior Member
Has anyone driven or own a 2.0 turbo hybrid Jeep? Didn't know anything about them but apparently its the new "Great" thing. 8sd auto too. With engine stop/start.
Price seems ok just concerned about new technology.
Check out the jeep forums. I hsve seen alot of posts on that motor.
 

KyDawg

Gone But Not Forgotten
Jeeps are really fun and I've enjoyed the ones I have had. I will probably get another.

Jeeps are junk. They are other vehicles like that you can take the doors and top off of. Practically every company which made a similar vehicle did a better job for quality and reliability. Look into older 4runners. Don't buy anything with an automatic transmission, a carburetor, a rusty frame or a big lift kit.

Please dont tell me about 4 runners, bought my son one and it kept him broke. It was something every week.
 
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