This is my first year to sew clover, we sewed an acer and just as we got it sewed it came a light shower on it and i have noticed where the field is shaded the clover is coming up better than where the full sun is. I was hoping the heat and moisture was having a effect. After the inch of rain we got Saturday morning we should see the rest of the field showing some green this week (hopefully).We seeded the field October 1st.It will lay in/on the ground until the conditions are right for germination. Heat, moisture and seed to soil contact are a couple of those conditions. My Durana clover dropped seed in April/May (and longer with Mother Natures help) and I expect it to start germinating soon.
The seed you buy has been scarified, meaning that the hard outside coating of the clover seed has been thinned, ruffed up or cut, to allow moisture to enter and the germination process to start, again, while everything is right.
I overseeded my perennial clover plots (as a back up) September 27th and I don't expect any of it to have germinated because it was so hot and so dry. With the rain we'll get (fingers crossed) this week, it will start the germination process and I should see some of that clover germinated and growing by the rut. It really won't do much this year (the new white clover) till March of next year. Crimson clover, if you planted that, you'll see if grow this fall and moderately quickly.
I need some advise. The folks that spray my foodplots mistakenly sprayed glycosphate on two of my Durana fields in September. At the time it was bone dry and there was virtually no clover visible.
Will the clover come back from the stolons with rain this fall?
Thanks
Side question but still relevant to the OP question....why wouldn’t one want to allow annual clover to go to seed? Would it be mainly so that summer plots could be planted more effectively?
Well, I don't mow, but if you mow to control broadleaf weeds (a little too often), you will reduce the amount of clover that could go to seed.