Disc filling up

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
I understand the science behind no till, and believe in it, yet in food plot application, for me, it's just not practical. I know very few who keep a field in the shape needed to run a notill over it. Unless the soil is that poor. So, I have come up with what works best for me. Not that I am arguing with proven science. I just realize that it's not likely that I will buy a notill drill. My food plots grow up head high during the summer. Most my neighbors food plots look like crap. 6 inches high of nothing and you can see the dirt from 30 yards away after setting all summer. My soil is primo. I no longer enjoy plowing it over and over and dealing with the thatch. So I roll it, 1st pass, I disc which smooths, 2nd pass. I drag once, 3rd pass. Then seed, then drag in seed 4th pass. In the past, I spent way to much time passing over and over. And the benefit is, that my soil has the green manure within and after rotting creates water retaining pockets or veins, and promotes deep root growth to survive droughts unlike notill. The best part is that I retain my moisture. I usually plant the same day that I turn it over. This year was problematic because I did not expect to get my tractor fixed, so I had planned on throw and roll. So I sprayed everything but realized it was to thick to ever get the seed through to the ground, so I never sowed it but instead tore into the tractor to find a blown head gasket. At this point, my trash had fell over. Big no no in rolling dirt. As long as it's vertical, it's amazing what I can cover. But once it becomes horizontal, then it will be a pain in the rear. So, I had to add 2 passes with a bush hog to my work load, trying to cut it up as much as possible. Other than a crick in my neck, I love to roll dirt. There is an art to it. Best thing though is driving up to a head high overgrown weed field, and 3 hours later driving away with a planted, beautiful food plot
 

JackSprat

Senior Member
The middle discs load up up because the other discs "push" stuff toward the center.

If you plow, wait a week before you disc, this lets the soil in the disc zone dry out, and vegetation to decompose enough to not clog the discs.

The disc can run as deep as the axles. As long as you aren't pushing up dirt with the axles you shouldn't have any problems especially in plowed ground.

Also the faster you run the discs, the more dirt they will throw "out" and like a boat, the discs will ride up some. Going too slow lets the discs dig in and doesn't flip the dirt well.
 
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1gr8bldr

Senior Member
LOL, check out my neighbors food plot at the top of the hill, this was mid season, year before last.
 

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1gr8bldr

Senior Member
LOL, I got carried away one year and blew straw on it to hold moisture. Hard to believe it used to be all under water, a swamp.
 

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Forest Grump

Senior Member
Disc scrapers are mounted on the gang beam; they are always aligned with the discs, & adjust with the beam (there is a set for each of the 4 beams).
A cheaper option is just to run a length of chain from the beam around the axle. It prevents the material accumulating in the space between the discs, but will not keep them as clean as a scraper.

The real problem is you are working the soil too wet, with too much residue.
And you most likely have too much Mg relative to Ca in that soil, so the soil is sticky to begin with. Put the bottom plow away as suggested above, kill the vegetation, & run a disc on it only when the moisture content is right or you will forever keep fighting a losing battle against Mother Nature. All that "green manure' you are turning under isn't building organic matter, it's being broken down into mineral soil again, & tying up N in the process.
 

1gr8bldr

Senior Member
Pulled the disc alot today. It never filled up again since the first pass after the turn plow
 
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