Do fly rods allow more loading of the rod because they are long?

[LovinOutside]

I recently learned about loading a fishing rod, and I've read it about all fishing rods, but usually fly rods come up in the search most. Are fly rods so long because the flies are so light that you need that extra length to load the rod (that whipping action)?

Is it possible to do it with a smaller/shorter rod, and if you can, what speed and action would you use?

edit: added the word shorter

 

[Tight Lines]

I recently learned about loading a fishing rod, and I've read it about all fishing rods, but usually fly rods come up in the search most. Are fly rods so long because the flies are so light that you need that extra length to load the rod (that whipping action)?

Is it possible to do it with a smaller/shorter rod, and if you can, what speed and action would you use?

edit: added the word shorter

There are a lot of smart talented guys on here that fly fish and I'm sure will be along to answer...

My layman's answer...

The length of the fly rod is really driven by the need to pick up line off the water and start your cast...similar to a cane pole or a long surf rod...getting out and above the water...mending your line is very important...you can do it with shorter rods but it takes practice and finesse...

The flexibility and strength of the fly rod is really a factor of the weight line you are casting...it's a matched set so to speak...so the right line needs to be paired with the rod and that pairing to the quarry i.e. specs in NoGa or tarpon in the Keys...

Loading is the mechanism by which the fly line when moving in one direction bends the rod which is just a long spring preparing it for it's movement in the opposite direction...

The fly rod set up is quite impressive to me...to take such fine materials and craft such a strong yet elegant device that in the right hands is beautiful...

As a MechE by training, I find them engineering marvels and beautiful works of art...

Of course, you can do everything with an Echo starter kit that you can with a $1000 fly rod...the higher end ones are just prettier and have better warranties...to me their heirlooms...

 

[flyrod444]

The loading of a flyrod is accomplished by several factors, but the weight of the flyline is a key factor. Putting simply the weight and balance of the flyline and leader balanced to the rod or key in casting the fly which has little or no weight in most cases. Short rods can load as well as long ones, they are more limited in controlling drag free drifts and setting the hook than anything else. Sage makes or made a 7'-11" bass flyrod that loads better than any rod I've ever cast. It was designed to be legal for tournaments that had a max rod length requirement.

 

[Qazaq15]

I recently learned about loading a fishing rod, and I've read it about all fishing rods, but usually fly rods come up in the search most. Are fly rods so long because the flies are so light that you need that extra length to load the rod (that whipping action)?

Is it possible to do it with a smaller/shorter rod, and if you can, what speed and action would you use?

edit: added the word shorter

Like KS said, the weight of the fly line matching the rod is what's important. The weight of the fly contributes very little to the casting. Matching the leader to the fly is what allows the fly to land softly on the water at the end of the cast. Too stiff a leader will cause the fly to smack the water hard, too limp and it won't turn over all the way and you get inconsistent casts.

 

[LovinOutside]

I guess that backs my question up one level. The line is heavy enough for a given rod, instead of the fly. I did read about the reel # and the rod # and so on and watched some videos, but the physics behind it had eluded me (I'm slow.)

 

[Batjack]

I guess that backs my question up one level. The line is heavy enough for a given rod, instead of the fly. I did read about the reel # and the rod # and so on and watched some videos, but the physics behind it had eluded me (I'm slow.)

It's like cut'n a set of step stringers or crown mold, I can tell you how to do it a hundred times and not be able to paint the picture in your head I mean to. I can show you once, and you'll see AND understand the picture I'd been try'n to paint for you. I'm sure there are plenty of fine folks on here that are good with a fly rod and close enough to you that'll be happy to meet with you and show you. I'd do it, but I'm not that good with a fly rod and I'm nursing a broke back.

 

[Tight Lines]

I guess that backs my question up one level. The line is heavy enough for a given rod, instead of the fly. I did read about the reel # and the rod # and so on and watched some videos, but the physics behind it had eluded me (I'm slow.)

The fly line itself is what bends the rod on the forward and back casts...think of the rod like one big simple spring...the line "loads" when you pick up the line off the water bending the rod down, then when you pop it up and back the line follows itself behind you loading the rod as it bends backward...then you start the motion forward once it loads...and back and forth...

On a fly rod the fly line is what allows you to cast...on a spinning or casting rod it's the weight or lure...

If you are in Marietta go down to The Fish Hawk and ask them to show you how to cast a fly rod...

 

[Tight Lines]

It's like cut'n a set of step stringers or crown mold, I can tell you how to do it a hundred times and not be able to paint the picture in your head I mean to. I can show you once, and you'll see AND understand the picture I'd been try'n to paint for you. I'm sure there are plenty of fine folks on here that are good with a fly rod and close enough to you that'll be happy to meet with you and show you. I'd do it, but I'm not that good with a fly rod and I'm nursing a broke back.

Good explanation from Batjack...it is hard to explain...watch YouTube and see what Orvis has for videos...

 

[brutally honest]

I recently learned about loading a fishing rod, and I've read it about all fishing rods, but usually fly rods come up in the search most.

Because fly guys are about the only ones using the term. Spinning and casting rods are "loaded", also, but the term is rarely used there.

"Loading" comes up so much in fly fishing because it is so important in fly casting, and many people LOVE to talk about fly casting. (Go to the sexyloops site, for example.)

Regarding length, shorter rods were the norm when people mostly fished with bamboo and fiberglass rods, since those materials are heavier. Graphite is lighter, so longer rods became the norm. Nine feet is now the standard graphite fly rod length. Even longer rods are used for other types of fly fishing, like Euro nymphing and spey casting.

 

[brutally honest]

The line is heavy enough for a given rod, instead of the fly.

Exactly. A 5wt line is designed for a 5wt rod. The 5wt line has a certain weight that is heavy enough to "load" the 5wt rod.

Dirty little secret: every fly rod can cast different size fly lines, just like every spinning rod can cast different sized lures. The line weight printed on the rod is what the manufacturer believes is the best line weight to load the rod.

 

[brutally honest]

I did read about the reel # and the rod # and so on and watched some videos, but the physics behind it had eluded me (I'm slow.)

The main difference between fly and conventional casting is that the weight in fly casting is a flexible piece of plastic 30-40' long. You have to pause and let the line unroll behind you (as Lefty Kreh used to say.)

 

[brutally honest]

Dirty little secret: every fly rod can cast different size fly lines, just like every spinning rod can cast different sized lures.

Here's a good example of that:

 

[huntfish]

In simple terms, you match the fly line to the rod weight. That meaning, you use a 5# line on a 5# rod. Someone mentioned that the rod is like a spring coil which is a good analogy. Once you feel it, you'll know it. Most folks starting out, don't hesitate enough for the rod to load while casting and you'll see them false casting, false casting and when they finally "shoot" the line, the line collapses and doesn't roll out all the way.

Typically, longer rods with the same weight and tip type, will appear to load easier. Yes, there are different rod tip types. As a beginner, I would recommend getting a mid flex rod. As for length? I recommend starting out with a 9 foot rod. It will help you learn how to cast, and when you get into tight waters, you can always separate the rod and just use the tip end (put the butt end in your belt).

Now to throw more complexity into the mix.

There are many different ways to casts to increase the load and when you are on the water, you can use the water to load the rod. If you watch someone nymphing (or high sticking), you'll notice that they don't typically cast. As the fly reaches downstream, you can lift the rod which pulls the fly up and use the water to load the rod and just then just cast (shoot) back to the starting point.

There 3 main types of fly lines too. Double taper, weight forward and shooting heads. Each have their own use but start out with the double taper line which you can reverse after wearing out the line tip so it's getting double use.

Don't fret, get the basics down. Ask, you'll see that most everyone will be willing to help you. Join your local TU group and go to meetings. The hands on mentoring is worth the membership fee.

 

[NCMTNHunter]

I don’t if an instructor would explain it this way but here is how I think about it. When a fly rod is loaded it means that the line is or almost is all the out. You pull the line off the water with your back cast. Stop the backwards motion of your rod at about 10:00 then wait on the rod to load up, line to get all the way back, before starting your forward cast. If you start your forward cast before the line is all the way back you are throwing some line in one direction while the rest is headed the other direction and killing the momentum of your line. Same with a false forward cast.

The other thing to picture in your mind during all of this is that the path of your line should be straight and not rainbow shaped like you see a bunch of folks do. Imagine your line staying in a straight tube from the end of the back cast to a point just above where you want the fly to land on the water.

 

[huntfish]

I don’t if an instructor would explain it this way but here is how I think about it. When a fly rod is loaded it means that the line is or almost is all the out. You pull the line off the water with your back cast. Stop the backwards motion of your rod at about 10:00 then wait on the rod to load up, line to get all the way back, before starting your forward cast. If you start your forward cast before the line is all the way back you are throwing some line in one direction while the rest is headed the other direction and killing the momentum of your line. Same with a false forward cast.

The other thing to picture in your mind during all of this is that the path of your line should be straight and not rainbow shaped like you see a bunch of folks do. Imagine your line staying in a straight tube from the end of the back cast to a point just above where you want the fly to land on the water.

True, but if you are throwing tandem flies, you'll want to open up that cast. Especially when weighted.

 

[OwlRNothing]

I guess that backs my question up one level. The line is heavy enough for a given rod, instead of the fly. I did read about the reel # and the rod # and so on and watched some videos, but the physics behind it had eluded me (I'm slow.)

Correct. You're casting the weight of the line - the leader and tippet and fly just follows along. As others have stated, the length of the average fly rod is more about mending and high sticking when needed than it is about loading a rod. You can also "overload" a rod and do note that not every rod performs it's best using the recommended line weight.
Reels should balance with the rod (with a spool loaded with line) - but you don't have to worry so much about the reel matching the line or rod in any other way. Fiberglass rods, which have made a semi-comeback the last 15 years or so are a bit different, but you can generally apply the same logic to them as well. Over-loading a rod's line weight ( using a 6 wt. on a rod designated for a 5 wt. line) is more common in glass rod use imho.
You can even use an underlined rod and there are rods out there where the manufacturer has labeled it a (let's say) 5 wt. when a 4 wt. line might be more what you need for it to work as you want it to work. ( That was more common to find a weird rod like that in the "old days" - like, back in the 80's and 90's lol) That's not to say that it will perform better in a traditional sense (distance, mending ) but you can adjust your flyfishing gear in an almost infinite number of ways to get done what needs doing. Sometimes you'll see someone using a 9 ft. fly rod with a spinning reel.

It can all be a little confusing and technical, but in the end it's all just a game we play for our own enjoyment. Nothing is set in stone, really. Unless you're some kind of hard-core purist fly fishing snob. I used to hate those guys - but then I realized that if that's what makes it fun for them - so be it! Good for them. Now let's talk about sinking lines and sink tips!?

 

[LowerAl]

Don’t let your fly rod drive when loaded?

 

[Permitchaser]

A fly rod cast the line not the fly. The line loads the fly rod in order to cast.
A spinning rod or bait casting cast the lure