GO/NO GO vs. Field Gauge

[leoparddog]

Somewhere I had read what the usage was for a field gauge, but have forgotten.

I'm thinking about buying an M98 or M48 Mauser and believe it would be a good idea to guage it for headspace before I buy it. Should I buy a GO and a NoGo gauge or does a Field gauge do the trick when I'm shopping.

How does a Field Gauge work?

 

[leoparddog]

Ah, the power of the internet Found my own answer. I'd have to buy at least the Go and NoGo gauge and having a Field Gauge wouldn't be a bad idea.

But it says that you do have to (or should) remove the ejector if its built into the bolt face like on a Remington.

How to gauge headspace

 

[Buzz]

If the firearm locks up in battery when the no-go gauge is inserted, then it may not be within acceptable maximum headspace dimensions. That would mean avoid. If it locks up into battery with the field gauge then it most certainly has a problem. The field length is a little more generous on headspace than the no-go gauge. There would be no reason to buy a milsurp that doesn't pass the no-go gauge.

The purpose of a go gauge is to make sure that the bolt closes. Then you know for sure your rifle will take any ammo built to SAAMI specifications. I think the go gauge is a waste of money as I have never seen one that wouldn't close on it.

I have one for the 8mm Mauser. If you meet me at a show I'll be glad to check any of them for headspace.

 

[jeclif]

I read some where that there is only .006 diff between the go and no go
most mausers that come to USA are checked by the importer but did you know that the early 8/57 mauser had a bore that was smaller than the newer so that would be what I would check

 

[Buzz]

Jecliff, the .318 bore only applies to 1888 Commission rifles and Model 98 Mausers made before 1904. Both of those are few and far between in this day and age.