Got a caliper locking up. 03 Silverado

[Mr Bya Lungshot]

I didn’t take his recommendation to go to the stealership.
Thought about it though.

 

[NE GA Pappy]

A couple things that OEM pads have going for them, to help with the squeaking and squealing, is that all the parts on the truck are new. Everything... Bearings, rotors, calipers, anti-rattle clips, springs... everything... and it all works together.

As a vehicle ages, parts wear. The wheel bearings in hub can wear enough to allow the rotor to 'walk' and cause noise. Anti-rattle clips wear and let the pads shift around and make noise. Since they don't replace all those parts on a brake job, the chance of having a noisy job increases.

 

[NE GA Pappy]

I didn’t take his recommendation to go to the stealership.
Thought about it though.

even if he went to the stealership, he might not get OEM parts. Some of our biggest customers were the stealerships. The don't keep all the parts for everything, and they can't wait til tomorrow to fix a car. That lift space cost money, and if cars aren't being moved, they are losing money.

Even if they had the part in stock, it might not be OEM... example... Ford will put Motorcraft brake pads on their repairs, but that is not what was put on it at the factory. Factory puts on FoMoCo brakes, never Motorcraft. Motorcraft is a parts division of Ford, and they source parts separately from the factory, and box them in Motorcraft boxes. Most of the time they are good parts, but they are not factory OEM many times

 

[NE GA Pappy]

I do appreciate the comments, but I ain't "shade tree"

If you are going to completely flush the brake system fluid, I would suggest changing over to DOT4 or DOT5. They don't attract and hold water like DOT3, since they are silicone based.

 

[Mr Bya Lungshot]

even if he went to the stealership, he might not get OEM parts. Some of our biggest customers were the stealerships. The don't keep all the parts for everything, and they can't wait til tomorrow to fix a car. That lift space cost money, and if cars aren't being moved, they are losing money.

Even if they had the part in stock, it might not be OEM... example... Ford will put Motorcraft brake pads on their repairs, but that is not what was put on it at the factory. Factory puts on FoMoCo brakes, never Motorcraft. Motorcraft is a parts division of Ford, and they source parts separately from the factory, and box them in Motorcraft boxes. Most of the time they are good parts, but they are not factory OEM many times

I’ve tried to explain that to ford owners since my first FORD.

 

[Mr Bya Lungshot]

Nothing better than a good junkyard to find something fomoco dirt cheap.

 

[hdgapeach]

I do appreciate the comments, but I ain't "shade tree"

My bad...didn't intend to come across as calling you "shade tree". Wrong choice of words on my part.
Intent was - don't take shortcuts (price, quality, etc.) with brake overhauls. Skimping on a pad change, yeah, you can get away with that most times. With the amount of work it sounds like you're fixin' to get involved in with your brake components, do it right the first time and you ought to get good results that'll last a good while.

 

[Lukikus2]

I use carquest

They are to high priced in my area.

 

[Lukikus2]

Notice how a new car brakes NEVER squeak?
Somebody recommended dealer oem pads to me.
I just buy the best ceramic at the parts store but he got me thinking.
Oem never squeak.

if you don't have your rotors turned they will. Mine are under spec' I'm sure.

 

[Lukikus2]

they didn't sell you asbestos. There hasn't been a set of asbestos pads sold in the USA in over 30 years. They probably sold you organic pads. I doubt your vehicle came with ceramic pads from the factory. Ceramic pads didn't really become standard on vehicles until 2006 or so.

If you want the best, go to NAPA and buy the UP Ultra Premium rotors. There just isn't any better on the market. I like the Wagner Thermoquiet pads, but you can't get them at NAPA... you will have to go to Oreilly's for that.

Most rebuild calipers are done by A1 Cardone. They use to do about 90% of all rebuilds in the US. I haven't been in that business for a few years, so I don't know what the % is now. What I am saying is buy your calipers where ever you get the best price and the best service/warranty. They are all going to be A1 rebuilts anyway.

Whatever they were I should have never put on and ceramic is what came on the truck. Hardly no dust before and caked on all the time now. So is the stuff I posted above good? My searches are bringing up a single caliper for half that price.

 

[Mr Bya Lungshot]

Meh, I quit having rotors turned when I started my own first brake job.
Unless your steering wheel is shaking when you apply the brakes or your braking is not constant, I’ll pretty much run em. Even if scratched slightly.
Otherwise just bought a new one if it was something that needed turning.
Most rotors are cheap enough nowadays to just replace when required.
I try not to let them go that far.

 

[Lukikus2]

Nothing better than a good junkyard to find something fomoco dirt cheap.

I'm a junkyard rat but never been there for break parts. Got one within walking distance. Hmmm!
I still need rotors and shocks though

 

[Mr Bya Lungshot]

My truck has junkyard calipers on it now.
I broke the aluminum bleed valves and they were just around the corner. I rebuilt them myself and they have not let me down in several years so far.

 

[bassboy1]

I like NAPA. I got my replacement pads other where and they sold me asbestos and not ceramic is why I am having to do this. Otherwise I would just be changing disks and pads.

Ceramics aren't necessarily the end all, be all. A large portion of the reason they exist is that they create a lighter colored dust that doesn't stick to wheels as much as the dark dust produced by metallic pads. This came into play when alloy wheels became standard on almost everything.

But, it's generally accepted that they don't bite as well as metallic pads, so stopping power suffers.

 

[Eudora]

they didn't sell you asbestos. There hasn't been a set of asbestos pads sold in the USA in over 30 years. They probably sold you organic pads. I doubt your vehicle came with ceramic pads from the factory. Ceramic pads didn't really become standard on vehicles until 2006 or so.

If you want the best, go to NAPA and buy the UP Ultra Premium rotors. There just isn't any better on the market. I like the Wagner Thermoquiet pads, but you can't get them at NAPA... you will have to go to Oreilly's for that.

Most rebuild calipers are done by A1 Cardone. They use to do about 90% of all rebuilds in the US. I haven't been in that business for a few years, so I don't know what the % is now. What I am saying is buy your calipers where ever you get the best price and the best service/warranty. They are all going to be A1 rebuilts anyway.

BBB rebuilds a lot now.

 

[Eudora]

Carquest is now serviced and sell the Oreilly's stuff. They use to have their own product and warehouses buy not anymore. Not that the product is bad, it just comes from a different warehouse now.

All parts stores have some junky stuff, and most have some decent stuff... You just gotta know what you are buying.

Actually, Advance Auto Parts bought Carquest and some Carquest branded parts are in Advance stores

 

[little rascal]

The brake hoses are the cheapest to change first and it might cure your problem. I had similar issues on 2001 chevy. Put new calipers and pads on front, still sticking getting hot. Changed brake hoses, problem solved. The hoses were collapsing and not letting caliper release fast enough.