Honda Recon 250 -- won't downshift -- foot shifter

Thread starter #1

mattuga

Senior Member
Going to my stand opening morning I put 4 wheeler in gear and when I pulled around truck it wouldn't down shift. I rode to the spot and it still wouldn't down shift but would shift up just fine. It definitely feels loose and something needs is not "connected" or catching that should be. Whatever is wrong the foot shifter hangs down now so your foot can't get under it like it normally would sit. I tried to take it off and it is just above my abilities. I'm trying to avoid the powersports type help and wondered if anyone knows of a company person or if anyone on here can fix it. Any PM's are welcome. I'll be relying on the ole golf cart for now.

Side note:
I'll be replacing the existing aftermarket China made carb with a Honda carb janky. Anything I should look at while doing that? It'll be my first carb replacement done by myself.
 

Jim Ammons

Senior Member
Side note

Just put a new drop in on my 1998 Honda Recon. This carb. fits 1997-2007 Honda Recon. Item # 391912100711 Purchase from Ebay $24.50 including shipping. Cheaper to do this than try to rebuild my old one. Runs very good now.
 

rjcruiser

Senior Member
chadf is a member and super helpful. PM him or just wait, he'll chime in shortly, I'm sure.

Carb replacement is easy. 2 or 3 bolts...a screw with the choke cable and then just start with the set screw/idle screw and fine tune once it's running.
 

transfixer

Senior Member
I used to own a Recon but can't remember how the linkage looks, but its probably similar to others, normally the foot shifter clamps around a shaft, the outside of the shaft is splined, and the inside of the foot shifter is splined with a bolt holding it tight,

The bolt may have loosened enough the shifter has jumped a couple splines, if it were to move down two or three splines, you would still have enough movement up to upshift, but not enough left going the other direction to downshift . Its what I would look at first anyway .
 
If the splines on the shift shaft aren't stripped the return spring is most likely broke. It has 2 prongs that go on either side of the return spring pin and keeps it centered on the shift drum. If one side of the spring breaks it'll cause what you describe. It's an easy fix if you're handy and have an air wrench to remove the clutch hub nut.
 

chadf

Senior Member
Read all the post above.

Very good info posted .

I'm pretty sure we can help around here!
 

Dbender

Senior Member
But wouldn't it have just as much trouble shifting up in gear as down? It was shifting up just fine which makes made me think it wasn't that.
You would think that but for some reason they usually shift up O.K. but slip when you are shifting down. You definately use more pressure to down shift than upshift so it kind of makes sense.
 
Thread starter #10

mattuga

Senior Member
Thanks for all the replies. I bought a new shift lever and it came in today. I attempted to take off the existing one to no avail. I took out the main screw but it seems there is another item I cannot see that is holding it on. I think I need to remove the plastic to get a better look but can't find a good video on how to do it. Will I be replacing the plastic screws no matter what? This 4 wheeler has no busted plastic and I'd like to keep it that way. I tried to google or youtube to get a simple video but nothing good has come of it.
 
Nothing else holds the shift lever on, except maybe the worn splines. You can use an old screwdriver to spread open the gap on the shifter and it should slide off.
 

Dbender

Senior Member
lever

Backlasher is right there is nothing else holding it on. No need to take any plastic off unless you have aftermarket foot guards/floorboards. You have to gently rotate the lever a fraction of an inch (while pulling/wiggling) in order to line up the splines on either side of the groove in the shaft.
 
Thread starter #15

mattuga

Senior Member
Carb Replacement

I cannot find a good youtube video showing how to remove. It seems like I need to remove the air filter in order to actually remove the carb. Is that correct? I can post pictures if needed but I think that is all I need to do. I unbolted it from the manifold (I think that is what it was) but need space I cannot find to pull out.
 
I had never seen this thread until this morning. I try to scan over this website fairly frequently and try to learn as much as possible as well.

Even though I have never owned any type of 4-wheeler in my life, I read every one of the above posts in this thread. I have always been amazed since I joined this website back in 2006 at the fact that so many people are always willing to help out others with any questions/problems etc. All of the replies above seem to be "right on the money" in determining the actual problem in this case especially after seeing the OP's update.

Over these years, I have bragged to several others about this website many times in regards to the wealth of information that is frequently shared by other members here. Those detailed comments have saved thousands of dollars along the way also in unnecessary repair costs to the original posters with problems. The really great thing is the fact that this information includes most every type of question about anything being used by various sportsman around the country.

There are some fantastic members on this website and I just want to say thanks to all of you for educating me and also lots of other people on numerous occasions while making this website one of the very best. :cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
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