Inconsistent Broadhead Flight

Thread starter #1
Hello all,

It has been a couple of years since I have done much hunting, but due to locating a great new place for this season I have decided to get back into it. I have a Mathews Switchback (70 pound dw and 27.5 dl) that I've had for 10 years now and I've been shooting it almost daily all summer, I've been shooting pretty well out to 60 yards with my field points but I screwed on my broadheads today and started having trouble.

I'm shooting Easton Full Metal Jacket 400 spine arrows cut @ 28 inches with 100 grain Muzzy 3-blades. I could get pretty decent groups at 20 and 30 yards but at 40 yards and back I could not get my arrows to group well. My broadheads shot low and right of my field points but occasionally I would have one kick out several inches, which I haven't been doing with my field points.

I have not had my bow tuned since I started back shooting (I know I know) but because I was shooting well with the field points I guess I assumed everything was still in good shape, I have a couple of concerns:
1-Should I not even worry with troubleshooting until I take my bow to a shop to make sure nothing has creeped on me over the past 2 years
2-I was looking at the easton arrow spine chart and it looks like I'm borderline between a 400 and 340 spine arrow, could being underspined cause problems like I'm seeing?
3-Is it possible the flight in my field points have been covering up a flaw in my form/release/etc that is showing up with my "flyers" from shooting my broadheads?

I appreciate any insight... Thanks!
1, correct, I would take it to a shop and have them look it over, and paper tune it if possible before you started making changes. 2, yes, you're probably on the edge of being weak. Because your bow isn't necessarily a speed bow, it might tune Ok with the 400's, but the 340's are probably optimal. I wouldn't change arrows yet, until I confirmed they are wrong. 3, I think you hit the nail on the head. Form is very important with broadheads as its easy to torque the bow and it not show up with a field point, but the broadhead will show it immediately. Furthermore, you're shooting a broadhead that has killed thousands of animals, but is not known for having the best flight in the business. I'd say they are some of the harder heads to tune, especially at long distance as you're seeing. Last, it could be a combination of all of the above. Personally, this close to season, I'd try another better flying head, and focus on form.
Thread starter #3
Thank you for your quick response, I will try to go this week and have everything checked out at a shop, my intentions were to try and make it through this season and give my bow a complete make-over this winter, including going up to the 340 spine fmj arrows but as I had 18 400 shafts I thought I would try to make them work.

I contemplated dropping my draw weight down to see if the 400's flew any better to see if that was the problem but I will probably hold off if I'm able to have a shop get me in fairly quickly.

I love my old muzzy heads, I tried shooting NAP bloodrunners a few years ago but after shooting two deer and having blades break off I decided to go back to a muzzy, I just like the thoughts of having a fixed blade head...I'm not completely opposed to using a mechanical broadhead but I sort of lost faith in them after the issues I had with those but I do know thousands of people shoot and swear by them, do you have any advice on a head that might fly better than my muzzys and be a little more forgiving to flaws in my form?

Thanks again
Ramcats are what I'm shooting. I've shot them the last 4 or 5 years, and have never found a better flying fixed head. You can also try a slick trick. I never had flight issues with them either, as they have a short profile.


Senior Member
Get it tuned at the pro shop with factory specs. And start the tuning process ur self. Not by someone else. Paper tuning then walk back tuning. And lastly I would broad head tune You tube has countless videos of all of these that u can do in a afternoon Remember form and no torque on the bow. Bad form and torque with throw ur Arrows all over the place
Thread starter #6
I am planning on going to the shop saturday but in the mean time I will see what I can find by shooting through paper...out of curiosity what should I expect to see if I'm shooting a weak spined arrow?
Based on what you saw from your broadheads, I'd say you're going to have a slight high left tear. Shoot through paper at 5 feet and 15 feet. also wouldn't surprise me if it shot a decent hole and its just the broadheads that are providing the bad flight.


Senior Member
broad heads grouping

Muzzy is a good head, but you have to line the blades up with the vanes or they won't fly true. use a propane torch and carefully heat the insert at the arrow tip until the broad head will turn, keeping flame off the shaft if you are shooting carbons. turn the insert so the broadhead and vane line up, if your Bow is tuned they will fly good.
Thread starter #10
Ok so I took it to the pro shop this afternoon, and the guy said my nock point was too high on my string, he moved it down to where my arrow was more level and it brought my broadheads and my field points in line with each other. He also suggested dropping my draw weight down a touch to help with the spine saying that any drop should help. I took one turn off and everything seems to be shooting great.

I still think I will go back over everything this winter and drop down to the 340 spined arrows

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions!
Based on what you saw from your broadheads, I'd say you're going to have a slight high left tear. Shoot through paper at 5 feet and 15 feet. also wouldn't surprise me if it shot a decent hole and its just the broadheads that are providing the bad flight.
Broadheads tuned with your fletching???
I have never seen broadheads aligned with fletching make any difference. Broadheads usually like a stiffer spines arrow. What does make "THE" difference is squaring the end of the arrow, inserting the insert, squaring the insert also and spin testing till no wobble. Fletching plays a huge roll with the old muzzy BH. I never have been able to get Blazers to handle them unless I fletch them 4 fletch. 4 or 5 inch feathers are a muzzys best friend.
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I do not align my broadheads with my fletchings. I align them all the same way just to give the most clearance on my riser.


Senior Member
Helical fletching is a requirement when shooting fixed blade broadheads, you must spin the arrow in flight to stabilize, if your shooting the small Blazer vanes this becomes even more important as well.