Multmeter jumping around while checking if battery is charging.

[NE GA Pappy]

but there is a symbol or key to make sure you hook the right wire to the right terminal. You can't just hook them up anywhere.

did he look for the key to match up the wires, or just start unhooking wires and putting them back on?

 

[GoldDot40]

I'm thinking you simply have a loose or poorly connected ground wire somewhere.

 

[kevinstan]

just unhooked and placed them back on. There is one connection that is turned sideways which is for the battery. I found the diagram for it online that showed it. There was also a notched corner on the same place as the positive / battery. So I am pretty sure it got hooked back up right.

Also figured it might be worth mentioning that the battery and multimeter were doing the same exact thing before the rectifier replacement. I was hoping the new rectifier would fix the issue but it did not.

 

[kevinstan]

GoldDo40 - Could it be ANY ground wire? Or something specific? I have checked all grounds inside the motor and everything seems really solid.

 

[NE GA Pappy]

check the AC voltage coming from the stator.

All you need to do is hook the meter across the ac1 ac2 terminals on at the rectifier, crank the engine and run it at about 3000 rpm.

See if the AC voltage is jumping around all over the place too. If it is, get ready to replace the stator assembly.

 

[kevinstan]

I was thinking next of replacing the battery - since someone told me that a bad or going-bad battery could also do the same thing?

It also might be worth me mentioning that the battery connections are held on with simple wing nuts which I also heard was a bad idea and could cause issues?

 

[kevinstan]

NE GA Pappy: I will try that tomorrow - but what if that shows steady? Then where would I start looking next?

Sorry for all the questions but I am trying to get all the info I can while I have you guys giving me info that is helping me out. I really want to resolve this to get on the water with the family.

Thanks to everyone so far!

 

[NE GA Pappy]

I was thinking next of replacing the battery - since someone told me that a bad or going-bad battery could also do the same thing?

It also might be worth me mentioning that the battery connections are held on with simple wing nuts which I also heard was a bad idea and could cause issues?

it ain't the battery. Batteries supply a constant voltage. It may be low, correct or high, but the voltage is pretty constant.

If the AC is steady, then you have a loose connection somewhere. Most likely a ground wire. Could be the ground at the engine, ground at the battery, ground through the electrical plug that goes to the engine. If you wanted to eliminate the possibility of a bad ground, you could run a temporary ground from the ground side of the battery and ground it straight to a good solid ground on the engine block.

If the ground wire stabilizes the voltage, then you have to hunt down the bad connection, where ever it is.

 

[kevinstan]

for the temporary ground would I need to remove the other ground? Or simply add another ground cable from the battery to the block on top of what is already there? And also does the size of the new ground matter? Does it need to be full battery cable size? Or a smaller gauge wire ok as long as its a solid ground?

 

[NE GA Pappy]

you don't have to undo the other ground to run the temporary ground. And size really ain't important, seeing as it will only be there for a few minutes at the most. I would probably hook up a 14 gauge just to test my theory. it can be a stranded wire or solid, it won't matter about that.

 

[kevinstan]

I will do these tests tomorrow after work and report back here. Hopefully it is something simple. Thank you for all of your time and help. I greatly appreciate it!

 

[WayneB]

jumper cable from engine block to negative post of battery would work. Just the one place, don't try to hook up positive, just negative.

It's commonplace for wires to break internally of the outer casing due to vibration or corrosion, or both.
You may find a 'soft' spot by pinching the wires near the connectors, or sense a difference in resistance to movement by gently wiggling the wires near to their connections. If it moves too easy, wire is likely broken internally. A kinked appearing spot in the wire is a clue to investigate more.

Ringing out each wire by testing continuity will confirm or eliminate a lot, use the wire diagram to determine color of a wire, and to what component each end connects to. Use the continuity function of your meter to test the wire is good.
Pappy's leading you down the right path. Seek and you shall find.

 

[kevinstan]

Thank you for the info WayneB. I didn't get the chance yesterday to check it out anymore since it was raining. I will see if I can get to it today or tomorrow. Hopefully I can narrow down the problem. Thank you again for your help!

 

[kevinstan]

I started checking wires yesterday after work. I noticed the positive batt + on the rectifier is very loose. If the rain will hold off today I plan on taking the rectifier off and trying to secure all 4 connections on it better. I hope I have found the problem. I will post an update once I get the wires more secure and can start the boat and check it again.

 

[kevinstan]

So I finally got around to messing with it. I tightened the positive battery connection on the bridge rectifier. I then started the motor up and checked the battery again with the multimeter - and it is still doing the same thing. Not quite as bad, but still the same jumping around. It would go from around 14.4 or 14.5 down to 12.8 and sometimes a quick drop to 5.6 then back up to 13 or 14.

I have come to the conclusion that I think it is the battery. I am going today to purchase a new one to try. When I first got the boat I hooked up a steady 3 amp car battery charger to it to charge the battery before testing it out, and I am thinking I did something to the battery, or it was already bad or going bad. I am going to start with a new battery then move on to new cables and see if that resolves anything else. I does seem to be charging - I just need to make sure it is ok to take to the lake and it isn't going to leave me stranded.

 

[GoldDot40]

Take your battery to be tested 1st. No sense in buying a battery until you know for sure that's the problem. Usually, a battery causing the regulator or stator to have fits won't hold a charge very long. Lots of times it's a bad/dead cell. But if it takes AND holds a charge, I wouldn't expect the battery as the culprit.

 

[kevinstan]

I am also thinking it might in part be my multimeter. I need to get an analog meter and read it again. I have already read from other forums people having problems reading marine batteries from outboards using a digital multimeter - and having similar issues.

Since I bought the boat and have NO idea how old the battery is, I was going to buy a new one anyways. The one the boat came with is plain gray and has no markings or stickers on it. It seems a bit worn. I would say it is time for a new one anyways just to be safe.

 

[GoldDot40]

If it's got some age, then by all means replace it. Where on the boat are you taking your readings at?

 

[kevinstan]

The battery itself is about 2 ft in front of the outboard on the back of the pontoon. I am taking the readings from the positive and negative terminals on the battery directly.

 

[WayneB]

batteries plus sells Deka batteries, I recommend them highly. I've had my last Interstate.