New to muzzleloaders and need some help

Thread starter #1
I am looking to buy a muzzleloader and know nothing about them. I want to buy a flintlock style because it seems the most challenging to me. I am in desperate need from my fellow hunters for information on powder types, bullet types, gear I will need, anything you might think will help me.
Also if you know anyone who is selling a flintlock.
 

Nicodemus

FREELANCE ADMINISTRATOR
#2
You can`t go wrong with a 50 caliber. With a 50, you can use either FFFg or FFg blackpowder, dependin` on what your particular rifle likes best. FFFFg is used ONLY for primin` the pan, NEVER DOWN THE BARREL. FFFg will work fine for the primin` pan if you can`t find FFFFg.

Both my flintlock, and percussion rifle are 50s, In my flintlock, I load 60 grains of FFFg with a .490 pure lead ball, patched with ten thousandths thickness cotton cloth. I prime the pan with FFFFg, and knap my own gunflints out of various flints and cherts.

My percussion rifle uses 70 grains of FFFg, with the same patched round ball, as noted with the flintlock.

These are my huntin` loads. PM sent.
 

Nicodemus

FREELANCE ADMINISTRATOR
#4
I appreciate the vote of confidence, and I know my own traditional rifles and pistol intimately, and enough about traditional rifles to be dangerous, but Choctawlb, Darkhorse, Fflintlock, and a host of others on here know a lot more about them than I do, I spect. :)
 
Thread starter #5
I really appreciate the help. Is there any particular brand of the ffg or ffffg that you like best or is that the brand?
Which bullet is the most accurate?
 

Nicodemus

FREELANCE ADMINISTRATOR
#6
I use DuPont Goex Brand blackpowder.

Fg is for cannons mostly, and a few large caliber smoothbores. It`s a very coarse grind powder.

FFg is for 50 caliber and above. It`s a medium coarse grind.

FFFg is for 50 caliber and below. It`s a "regular" grind.

FFFFg is for primin` the pan on a flintlock ONLY. It`s a very fine grind.

The letter "F" is a measure of how coarse the powder is ground. The more Fs, the finer the powder grind is.

Remember, the finer the grind, the faster it burns.

The only bullets I use are a .490 patched round pure lead ball. Since both my rifles are 50s, I can use either FFg or FFFg in them. They seem to like FFFg better so that`s what I use. My pistol is a 50 also, and the loadin` manual say FFFg only.
 

Darkhorse

Senior Member
#7
Goex all the way though a lot of folks like the Swiss powders. A lot of testing with a chrono is in order for the swiss and the grinds are different. I'm too old fashioned to change I guess.
3F can be used in .50 & .54 I used to be a dyed in the wool 2F shooter until someone finally talked me into trying some 3F. Now I shoot 3F in all but one of my .54's and the
.40. 3F gives higher pressures and loads should be reduced 20% from your 2F load. Some guns like one thing some like another.
Too bad your not lefthanded as I have a nice Great Plains flintlock I might part with.
 
Thread starter #8
I really appreciate all the advice. If you think of anything that might be useful please post it. It might sound common knowledge to you but I know nothing in this field.
 

Nicodemus

FREELANCE ADMINISTRATOR
#9
I really appreciate all the advice. If you think of anything that might be useful please post it. It might sound common knowledge to you but I know nothing in this field.

I forgot to warn you about one thing--traditional blackpowder rifles and shootin` em are just like turkey huntin`! It`s a disease that there is no known cure for.:bounce:


Consider yourself warned!! ;)
 

OconeeDan

Senior Member
#10
If you want a good blackpowder rifle for the money, I really like the Lyman Great Plains Rifles. You can get the finished rifle or a kit form. If you are handy with a few tools the kit form is very fun, and cheaper.
Try to decide what you want to shoot...
If you want to shoot patched roundballs, buy a gun with a slow twist barrel, 1-60 or so. Lyman GPR come in that version.
Like Nicodemus said, the 50 cal is a good place to start.
It is also a good idea to find a local friend to shoot with when starting...the learning curve is much faster and you'll buy less junk you don't need.
Also like Nicodemus said, Goex is my favorite powder. I tried Pyrodex and had some very bad hangfires with it. Pyrodex and some of the other "fakes" take a much hotter spark to ignite. Real BP works just fine.
Dan
 
#11
I forgot to warn you about one thing--traditional blackpowder rifles and shootin` em are just like turkey huntin`! It`s a disease that there is no known cure for.:bounce:


Consider yourself warned!! ;)
I'll second his statement...between him and a friend from another board I've have contracted the contagious "traditional muzzle loader disease"....Now just a matter of finding a nice left handed flintlock long rifle for less than $4000!
Nathan
 

fflintlock

Senior Member
#12
I use 2F in my 45 rifle I built, prime with it too. Most commercial touchhole linners are way to small, I drill them out to 7/32 and have never, I mean never had a missfire. When I touch those Davis triggers, that gun goes off, now!
What ever you decide to buy, always remember, you get what you pay for. You can buy kits, or finished rifles from 450.00 to 4000.00. just depends on what you want. Tomorrow night, I'll go through some of my links and post them, I'm too tired right now.
 
Thread starter #14
Gun ranges

Where in the atlanta area is there a range that black powder is allowed. The closest one I know of is the one at Wilson shoals WMA and I will have to check if they allow them.
Anyone want to go target practice with a rookie and show him the ropes?
 

Nicodemus

FREELANCE ADMINISTRATOR
#15
Sharkhunter, tomorrow evenin` I`ll take some pics of my shootin` pouch, and gear and post it on this thread for you, maybe that`ll give you a few ideas.

Most of this gear, you can make yourself.
 

fflintlock

Senior Member
#18
Not as long as your not looking in the touch hole, or standing just a foot or so from the pan. Bystanders beware standing to the right, of a right hand flinter, it'll throw a little fire and sparks out a few feet.
At first it freaks some folks out when they first shoot it and there's an explosion a few inches from your face. Ya gotta try to ignore it and you will after shooting it a few times.
If you have'nt already, you need to go check out Deer Creek Gun Shop over in Merrieta off of Fairground St. He'll have about what ever you need and a bunch of things you think you need LOL ;) From guns to powder and ball. I forgot about those links, I'll get'em to ya soon.
 

choctawlb

Senior Member
#19
If your looking for an affordable "hand made flintlock" or high quality parts to make your own smoke pole, go to www.avsia.com/tvm (Tennessee Valley Muzzleloading) . These folks make high quality reproductions, and their word is as good as gold. These folks stand behind their product, and they are a joy to deal with. These are just good folks. By the way if you want to hunt with a TVM in 2008, you should have ordered it in 2006, as there is about a 2 year waiting period on their flintlocks.
Ken
 

Nicodemus

FREELANCE ADMINISTRATOR
#20
Here`s the contents of my flintlock rifle pouch.

Everything is laid out on extra patchin` cloth.
Deerskin "wallet" for extra gunflints, adjustable brass powder measure, forged screwdriver, and feathers, for pluggin` the flashhole.
Forged flashhole pick.
60 grain antler powder measure.
Antler and wood short starter.
Heavy cotton cloth for "whatever".
Rendered bear oil, for greasin` patches, and wipin` the rifle down after cleanin`.
Deerskin bullet pouch.

All of this fits in a deerskin pouch with a shoulder strap, and is lightweight and easy to carry. With this stuff, I can shoot, maintain, and clean this rifle .

The small powderhorn is full of FFFFg for primin` the pan. The larger elk antler powderhorn is full of FFFg.

Most of this stuff you can make yourself, with maybe a little tradin` with a good blacksmith. ;)
 

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