Painted my Tikka stock.

[Professor]

They put the bolt on the wrong side

I think that is a mirror shot

 

[Darkhorse]

No it 's not. It's a lefthand rifle. Which puts the bolt handle on the "Correct" side.

 

[Jester896]

Thank you Jester. Sometimes I glance at something and my old brain just plain misproccess's it.

right there with ya

 

[bullgator]

No it 's not. It's a lefthand rifle. Which puts the bolt handle on the "Correct" side.

?

 

[01Foreman400]

Looks great!

 

[tcward]

That’s a good looking job!

 

[tigerfan]

I've had this rifle for a long time now, I can't find the bill of sale but I think I bought it around the second year they began importing them. I like it pretty well but there are a few things I don't care for....the bottom piece is plastic instead of metal....the LOP is too long with winter clothing on....and the plastic stock was slick as our Georgia red clay roads after a hard rain. It would slide against my cheek and hand when shooting offhand and it would move around when on sandbags, I never could get it too really lockdown like a wooden stock does. The Tikka is not my only synthetic stock but it is the only one that's this slick.
So I started thinking about painting it to make it a little more grabby. Did a lot of research, then just jumped right in.
The Tikka stock is notorius for being difficult to bed or paint because nothing sticks to it, so this is how I did it.
First thing was a good wipedown with alcohol. Then I removed the recoil pad and plastic filler and the sling studs. And started sanding. Most references say to use 220 grit but I used 100 grit, because I'm not after a smooth finish I'm after a rough finish, something that helps paint stick. I sanded it until all the slick black was off and the surface was gray and rough. Then a trip to the air compressor to blow everything off. Then another good wipe with a clean cloth and alcohol.
Now I'm wearing rubber gloves and outside with the stock hanging on a wire attached to a recoil pad screw. And another good wipedown with alcohol. After drying good it was time to paint. First was several light coats of a Primer/Paint mixture. This was a good rich satin brown. I took care not to let it run.
Two days later I sprayed several light coats of a textured brown paint and let it dry 48 hours. I didn't like it. The surface was just too gritty, it felt like 60 grit sandpaper. So I cut a piece of scuff pad and began to lightly sand the surface. First I took off the sharp points on the entire stock, then applying more pressure I sanded the really offending places, where my cheek contacts the stock, the wrist, and the forend. Now it felt a lot better, still plenty of good grip but nothing sharp now and the cheek, wrist and forend were very comfortable. Next another trip to the air compressor and a light wipedown with alcohol.
Lastly I sprayed several light coats of clear, matte topcoat.
For Camo I took a wadded up paper towel, sprayed a puddle of flat black on a piece of cardboard, dobbed the paper towel and blotted it on the surface.
I think it came out good for a rattle can paint job and fixed the slick surface problem.
Next I cut up some pipe insulation into small square chunks and filled the butt, and compressing the foam with a stick every few handfuls. Now most of that hollow drum sound is gone.

That looks awful. Want me to come take it off your hands?

 

[HarryO45]

Great job. I would paint everything - all but the lenses and bolt. Why not?

 

[Darkhorse]

Great job. I would paint everything - all but the lenses and bolt. Why not?

Vanity I guess. I like the look of the stainless steel barreled action and I certainly don't want to paint over the markings on that Zeiss scope.
But if I was a varmint hunter maybe.

 

[ringorock]

Is the slick stock an attribute of the t3? I have the t3x, and I don't think it's slick at all. Good looking paintjob!

 

[HughW2]

Darkhorse, Fine job and thanks for the nice report on how you accomplished the task. Great info.