Questions on replacing bottom sill on doublewide

j_seph

Senior Member
So as we are doing renovations and such we are rebuilding our deck and vinyl siding. As I pulled part of the deck off yesterday I found that whomever built it did not add flashing and fastened it to the bottom sill. I am not sure if it will be rotten all the way where the deck was against it or not but just in the section I took down it does seem that it could be an issue now. Looking online at how these things are built I am clueless as to how to replace this. Looks as though the plywood floor is fastened on top of the sill and then you have your walls fastened down to that. Anyone ever done this and have some guidance? Attached is a photo of how I presume the majority are built.
mobile-home-interior-joy-studio-design_72009-697x450.jpg
 

baddave

Senior Member
mine is built just like a house - framed wall w/ bottom sill and nailed to the plywood sub floor.. bottom sill should be PT.. if bottom sill is rotted you've got to , somehow , get eyes in the plywood .. plywood is nailed to floor joist.. rotten floor joist can be an issue but not the end of the world .. hope i'm understanding you right
 

j_seph

Senior Member
mine is built just like a house - framed wall w/ bottom sill and nailed to the plywood sub floor.. bottom sill should be PT.. if bottom sill is rotted you've got to , somehow , get eyes in the plywood .. plywood is nailed to floor joist.. rotten floor joist can be an issue but not the end of the world .. hope i'm understanding you right
They nailed/screwed through the siding into this board here. No flashing so water just over the years got between the deck and this board, through screw/nail holes behind the siding.
1561571787975.png
 

baddave

Senior Member
that looks to be the outer band... not PT .. and i was wrong ,after thinking , that bottom sill is NOT PT. Flashing may not have prevented that . probably caulk or some other sealer should have been used .. if your outer band is rotten , that ain't good but still not the end of the world .. if it's rotten in one place then probably rotten in others . doable but i wouldn't ask a girl scout troop to fix it .. w/o looking at it , i'd guess you'll need some jacks .. good luck
 

j_seph

Senior Member
that looks to be the outer band... not PT .. and i was wrong ,after thinking , that bottom sill is NOT PT. Flashing may not have prevented that . probably caulk or some other sealer should have been used .. if your outer band is rotten , that ain't good but still not the end of the world .. if it's rotten in one place then probably rotten in others . doable but i wouldn't ask a girl scout troop to fix it .. w/o looking at it , i'd guess you'll need some jacks .. good luck
You looking for employment LoL
 

greg_n_clayton

Senior Member
I inherited my grandmothers place. When they underpinned it years ago, the underpinning was placed on the outside up on the fiber board type siding. When I took it off to underpin with block, I found alot of the same problems. I had to replace alot of sections of sills !!
 

j_seph

Senior Member
I inherited my grandmothers place. When they underpinned it years ago, the underpinning was placed on the outside up on the fiber board type siding. When I took it off to underpin with block, I found alot of the same problems. I had to replace alot of sections of sills !!
Care to share the process?
 

greg_n_clayton

Senior Member
Care to share the process?
Not much to share really. I just cut it back the center of floor joist. Really wasn't hard just a little time consuming ! He mentioned jacks, but it ain't nessasary. The frame being back the 4' or so will support the joist. Where is this mobile home at ?
 

Pig Predator

Useles Billy’s Fishel Hog Killer ?
I've done a bunch of these. Cut out the rot from joist to joist. Replace the 2x6 band and 3/4 subfloor with 2 2x8 ripped to 6 1/4 and will go directly against the underside of the bottom wall plate. Any joist that nails to the band needs 1 1/2 cut off the end. Scab in between joist with 2x6 at inside wall to support the new subfloor. Caulk the crack between new subfloor and wall.
 

greg_n_clayton

Senior Member
I've done a bunch of these. Cut out the rot from joist to joist. Replace the 2x6 band and 3/4 subfloor with 2 2x8 ripped to 6 1/4 and will go directly against the underside of the bottom wall plate. Any joist that nails to the band needs 1 1/2 cut off the end. Scab in between joist with 2x6 at inside wall to support the new subfloor. Caulk the crack between new subfloor and wall.
Yep if the plywood is rotted too. Really not hard. Like i said, a little time consuming. I too was preparing to put vynal siding on, so I cut the siding panel up about 12" so I had plenty of room to get in there.
 

j_seph

Senior Member
Going to hope for the best. I got some of the deck and the ledger board off yesterday. There was a place of some rotted board under the siding. I moved over about 2 foot and the band was a pretty white and dry board. Fingers crossed as I go forward that white and dry is what I will continue to see. Now if I just had a easy cheap place to get rid of the old deck. Brought a load to work with me today for the landfill.
 

mguthrie

**# 1 Fan**OHIO STATE**
Going to hope for the best. I got some of the deck and the ledger board off yesterday. There was a place of some rotted board under the siding. I moved over about 2 foot and the band was a pretty white and dry board. Fingers crossed as I go forward that white and dry is what I will continue to see. Now if I just had a easy cheap place to get rid of the old deck. Brought a load to work with me today for the landfill.
Sounds like PP has you on the right track. Hopefully you don't have a lot of rot. Don't burn that old deck for sure. There's some bad stuff in the smoke from it. Hope it works out for you
 

j_seph

Senior Member
UPDATE*
Outer rim joist/sill/band whatever we call it is going well. I am going to have to replace a few studs that rotted at the bottom also. Since we are going to do new Vinyl siding I have no issue cutting it. My question is, is it possible to make a vertical trough the siding as in picture, then a horizontal cut in siding at top then fold back or roll back the siding to expose the sheathing to get to the studs needing replaced? Then once done use some of those nails that have the round plastic disk at head and tack the siding back to the sheathing to keep it from being exposed?
1563222478385.png
 

j_seph

Senior Member
Just a FYI
I appreciate all the comments and reply.
In case someone searches for this. When replacing the out rim joist/band on a doublewide. There is no need for a jack. The frame that they set on supports the joist undr the floor and it is approx 2 foot from the ends of the joist. There are angle pieces ever so far that has a lag bolt screwed up into the outer rim from the bottom. A sawzaw with a metal cutting blade makes it the easiest to seperate the floor from the outer band. The cheap sheathing used cuts like butter using an angle grinder. Cutting 10 inches up from bottom of band to remove sheathing worked pretty well as most wires I found were a little higher up than that. Figuring the 10 inches, go to lowes and get 3/8 plywood, have them cut it into 10 inch strips will save you time for replacing the sheathing removed. A good pair of channel locks really help with removing staples. Again thanks for the ideas and thoughts. I got 98% done now just a few small spots and we getting the siding put on.
 

greg_n_clayton

Senior Member
Just a FYI
I appreciate all the comments and reply.
In case someone searches for this. When replacing the out rim joist/band on a doublewide. There is no need for a jack. The frame that they set on supports the joist undr the floor and it is approx 2 foot from the ends of the joist. There are angle pieces ever so far that has a lag bolt screwed up into the outer rim from the bottom. A sawzaw with a metal cutting blade makes it the easiest to seperate the floor from the outer band. The cheap sheathing used cuts like butter using an angle grinder. Cutting 10 inches up from bottom of band to remove sheathing worked pretty well as most wires I found were a little higher up than that. Figuring the 10 inches, go to lowes and get 3/8 plywood, have them cut it into 10 inch strips will save you time for replacing the sheathing removed. A good pair of channel locks really help with removing staples. Again thanks for the ideas and thoughts. I got 98% done now just a few small spots and we getting the siding put on.
I believe this is what wasvpointed out to ya a while back. Sounds like ya got it done !
 

j_seph

Senior Member
I believe this is what wasvpointed out to ya a while back. Sounds like ya got it done !
Yes sir, and thank you for talking with me. Very knowledgeable on what I needed and proven fact.
 

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