Waxing boat bunks

SWAMPFOX

Senior Member
I am thinking about waxing the bunks on my bass boat trailer. Anyone do that?
I thought it might make it easier to load and unload.
Would plan old Johnson's Paste Wax work or is there something better?
Any downside to waxing them?
Thanks.
 

BoosterC

Senior Member
If you want slicker bunks, I wouldn't use wax.

I used the spray silicone to make them slicker. Every other month or so I would re-spray as needed.

WARNING: Don't power in real fast or pull up the ramp without latching the boat strap.

Otherwise you may park the boat in the truck cab if coming up too fast:banginghe, or leave the boat on the ramp as you pull up:huh: if you leave the strap undone. Same is true when launching, keep the strap hooked until you are in the water. People love to take pictures of boats left on the ramp.:hair:
 
X2 on the silicone spray. I had a 24' cuddy cabin that weighed 5000lbs with only a 160 hp in it. You had to have the silicon to drive it onto the trailer.

Like the previous poster said be careful it will be much slicker.
 

bpoulin

Senior Member
inappropriate-boat-trailer.jpg

Yeah it could look like this...
 

sbroadwell

Senior Member
First, I have to say that I haven't done either one yet. But, there is always a lot of talk on the microskiff and Gheenoe forums about this.

Recently, there have been more and more posts about waxing being MUCH better than the silicone spray, both working better and lasting longer. But, not the kind of wax you're talking about. Just regular paraffin wax. You can buy a box with about a dollar at the grocery store, usually in the section where they keep canning supplies.

You are supposed to apply it three or four times, then it's supposed to last a really long time. I've got some (use it on mandrels when I'm gluing up rod grips) but never do remember to take a piece to the lake with me.
 

tllewis

Gone but not forgotten
Different strokes for different folks, but i don't see nothing good coming from it. Back trailer in far enough and problem solved. imho.
 

SWAMPFOX

Senior Member
Backing the trailer in far enough is not always a good option for me giving the condition of some of the ramps I have to use. Due to power loading/unloading and river/stream currents, most of the ramps I use have a huge washed out hole at the end. If my trailer drops off the end of the ramp down into the hole, my life just got more challenging and a lot of folks wanting to launch are gonna be miffed.
 

jackherber

Senior Member
I don't know if this is an option for what you have but I have used those white teflon strips they sell at Bass Pro for years. I believe they are called bunk slicks or something like that. They really work well for me.
 

sbroadwell

Senior Member
Different strokes for different folks, but i don't see nothing good coming from it. Back trailer in far enough and problem solved. imho.

Yeah, I sorta agree with that, for most boats. My present boat is a Riverhawk, though, and on some ramps that aren't too steep, there is no way I can get it back far enough. Have to just force it off. The bottom is pretty much completely flat, and it ain't easy. I want to try the wax, just to see if it works.
I know the guide strips will probably work, but they are a lot more money than a little bit of wax I already have!
 

Alan in GA

Senior Member
related topic,...."unhooking the bow strap"..

I don't know why anyone does it,...unhook the bow strap and still yards away from the water's edge. Back the boat at least to where the axles are entering and your winch area is still on dry pavement, THEN stop and unhook. You got to stop a few yards farther anyway, might as well stop and unhook where your boat is safe from an accidental tap on the brakes - possibly launching the boat on concrete....NOT GOOD : )
 

Ronnie T

Ol' Retired Mod
If you were going to wax the bunks wouldn't you only wax the front portion and not the back section of the bunk? The boat will float off the back portion won't it?
 

jackherber

Senior Member
Actually, that is another good tip. I try to back my boat in as far as practically possible, farther than I would be willing to walk into the water. The idea is to float at least the back of boat to kinda break it free. Then pull forward to where you can get into the boat comfortably. Now the bunks are wet and the boat is freer. This wouldn't work where your backing is limited by holes at the rear of the ramp.
 

FERAL ONE

Shutter Mushin' Mod
the teflon sheets will void your warranty on a carolina skiff . they will cause blistering of the hull so i was told. not that my boat still has a warranty !!! i like the wax idea though. my boat floats pretty fast but my trailer is so high i have trouble getting in far enough on shallow ramps.
 

Backlasher82

Senior Member
I thought about waxing them or installing the strips on them when I replaced my bunks a while back but I was afraid if they were too slippery it would make loading the boat more difficult.

I fish alone about half the time and I could see it being a real hassle if the boat kept wanting to slide back off the trailer before I could get up front to hook the winch strap.
 

Fletch_W

Banned
Backing the trailer in far enough is not always a good option for me giving the condition of some of the ramps I have to use. Due to power loading/unloading and river/stream currents, most of the ramps I use have a huge washed out hole at the end. If my trailer drops off the end of the ramp down into the hole, my life just got more challenging and a lot of folks wanting to launch are gonna be miffed.

Waxed bunks don't sound like a solution. Lower the bunks so you float in shallower water. If the bunks are already on the frame, get smaller wheels. If that doesn't work, hang your boat off the trailer a little further, like 5 or 7 inches further, instead of squaring up on the boat stop, or better, if you can back up the boat stop 6 inches, do that too.

That's what I would do in your situation. But it's been proven time and again that I'm an idiot.
 

bzb

Senior Member
Agree with the last couple posts. Seems to me if it slides on easily, it'll slide back off easily. Maybe experiment with waxing just the middle portions, so you still get some "stick" near the stop?
 
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