Arrows..................

[DaddyPaul]

Don't want to shoot wood arrows at this stage. I know this is not the "traditional" think to do. Probably gonna do a heap of missing, some ricocheting and a bunch of breaking in the early days.

I am thinking of carbon arrows just for the durability. Any suggestions on a starting point? My Montana is either a 50 or 55 @ 28 (getting old and can't remember what I ordered). I will draw right at 30 inches though as I am 6'3".

What about tip weight? Is 125 grains a decent starting point?

As always any assistance is appreciated.

 

[Al33]

DP. lots of trad shooters shoot carbons so don't feel like you are going against the grain if that's what you want to shoot.

I think you would do well with the GT 5575's with 100 gr brass inserts up front. If you order them you may want to get them uncut and if you need to shorten them you can with the right tools. Even so, I am willing to bet they will work fine cut at your 30" draw length.

BTW, heads from 125 to 160 grains should work well on the 5575's but since they will be 30" long the 125's might work out best.

Good luck

 

[DaddyPaul]

Are the 100 grain brass inserts to weaken the spine for better arrow flight or just to add some "punch" to the business end of the arrow? Or both?

 

[Al33]

Are the 100 grain brass inserts to weaken the spine for better arrow flight or just to add some "punch" to the business end of the arrow? Or both?

DP, I sure ain't no expert at the carbon stuff but as I understand it the added weight is needed to reduce the stiffness of the shaft. My 5575's wouldn't fly worth a hoot out of any of my bows until I put the 100 gr inserts in them, but once I did it made all the difference in the world. Additionally, they will fly good from varying poundages unlike most woodies that are spined for 5# ranges that will often only fly well for a given bow at a given weight.

The good thing about carbons and aluminums too is that usually all of a dozen will fly the same with all other particulars being the same such as fletching, nocks, etc.. Woodies on the other hand will come in with varying weights and spines. When I buy a dozen woodies I feel good to get 8 or 9 to fly alike from a given bow.

 

[Glenn]

DP the added FOC weight is to reduce the shaft spine and at the same time is adds weight to the shaft.

Most Trad shooters like to shoot at least 10gr per inch of arrow and try to have a finished arrow around 500 gr or so for deer and hogs.

I shoot only wood and alluminum due to the cost of carbons. But alluminum is getting harder to buy in my shaft size and wood is getting expensive too.

By the way Kustom King Archery or 3 Rivers Archery will have all you need for inserts and carbon shafts.

 

[DaddyPaul]

I bought some EZ Kut clippers from 3 Rivers a couple weeks back and they sent me a catalog.

I can almost feel my wallet getting lighter when I turn the pages..............................................

I think I may just order a dozen pre fletched from them, along with some inserts, points, etc.

Do y'all think 125 grains (tip) is "enough" for what my set up will be?

 

[DaddyPaul]

Oh yeah one more thing. What do I need to do in the way of "building" a rest for my Montana when it gets here?

Al,
Seems I remember you telling me about building a pad on the shelf and riser and to leave a "groove" of sorts for one of the hen feathers to "slip" through. Is that along the lines of what I need? What material do y'all prefer to build the rest out of?

 

[Al33]

Paul,
I use leather, and yes, I use one thin piece for the side plate and another piece for the shelf so there is a clearnace for the hen feather in the corner. That probably doesn't make that much difference and most who shoot off the shelf simply use one continuos piece, it's just the way I do it. Also, others prefer different types of shelf material.

Most will put a small piece of leather or something like a piece of toothpick under the shelf material for the arrow to rest on with a minimum amount of shelf touching the shaft. If the bow has a recessed grip versus a straight grip this should be placed just above where the webbing of your hand between the thumb and fingers touches the bow.

Your bow will come with the rest material already in place.

There is a tape product out for wrapping the grips of bows for a fatter and better grip, so if the Montana grip doesn't feel like you think it should you can modify it with the tape. Personally, I prefer leather for the grip and that too can easily be stiched around the grip after being soaked a short while in water. I use artificial sinew for the stitching material.

 

[fflintlock]

You know, you could always run down to an archery shop and get some aluim. arras, 2018's should fly out of that bow, and they'll take a beat'n too. What ever you get I'd leave them long to start with, I had a montana and I can't remember if they are center cut or not, I'm thinking it was'nt. So you'll need a little lighter spine then you think, maybe some 2016's or 1916's. Ya just have to play around with it and see what shoots they best for your style shooting and your bow. It can be frustrating at times, but don't let it get ya down.
Main thing is, have fun with it, shoot'n trad gear is a relaxing sport, not hard work.
Jerald

 

[DaddyPaul]

shoot'n trad gear is a relaxing sport, not hard work.

You have obviously never spent much time inside my brain!

I am gonna start out with some GT 5575's or an equivalent carbon arrow. I talked to Mark Land and he gave me some really good advice on getting things "ballparked" pretty good.

My biggest problem right now is my bow is still not here!

 

[JSOG]

Psssstttt step away from the dark side....

repeat after me... Ramin is my Friend.. Ramin is my friend.... Ramin is my Precious, it is..... LOL
Pm me, after your seein spots, n the hyptnotism has took holt of ya...

(Can you say lessn a buck a ARRER?)