Did you reload anything today #5

Dub

Senior Member
Looks like thread Numba 4 was full up.

How 'bout another'n...




What did you do at the reloading bench today ???




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Past threads:







 

menhadenman

Senior Member
Let’s go!!!!

Gotta do some more brass prep today if I can squeeze it in… 7 RM and 180s for last round of testing for elk hunt.
 
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Dub

Senior Member
I’m thinking of putting my loading station here. I can put shelves next to the bench. There is power just the other side of the half wall that the water heater is behind.

I will need to move the car out to when I reload, but that’s not the end of the world.

Great developments for you @Adam5

We are all high fiving ya and looking forward to seeing you settled in at your new place with your new bench up & running.
 

Dub

Senior Member
Let’s go!!!!

Gotta do some more brass prep today if I can squeeze it in… 7 RM and 180s for last round of testing for elk hunt.


Yes sir....this un is gonna be fun.

Hope the market continues to improve as it has the past few months. (y) (y) (y)


We need @Nimrod71 to come back.....he's the one that started us off. :cheers:
 

Ruger#3

RAMBLIN ADMIN
Staff member
I locked the other thread, thanks for starting a new one.

Would there be interest in a sticky with the links to the reloading threads. Dub has already posted the links. I can make sticky up there and add the threads as this continues.
 

Dub

Senior Member
I locked the other thread, thanks for starting a new one.

Would there be interest in a sticky with the links to the reloading threads. Dub has already posted the links. I can make sticky up there and add the threads as this continues.

Yes sir.

That would be super.


Thank you.
 

Ruger#3

RAMBLIN ADMIN
Staff member
Done, we have a directory sticky now.
 

Dub

Senior Member
Taken from range report posted by @Buckstop


Got to the range Sunday to try a few groups with varying seating depths in a 25SST with the 110 hammer hunters. Had previously been shooting about 1” to 1.5“ at .020 off the lands. .010 off was the same. .030 off was an improvement and .040 was a winner. At 57.0 grns of RL23 running at 3380 fps. Rifle is a M700, 22” #3 Bart 1 in 7.5 twist, AG composite stock. Guessing about 6.5 # unscoped.
@Buckstop 's target pics...
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Great looking results @Buckstop

I'd never have thought that a .020" change in seating depth would take a group from 1.5" down to overlapping holes. :cheers:

Great looking results.



Question for everyone @BriarPatch99 @Jester896 @rosewood @menhadenman @Ruger#3 @deerslayer357 @Bobby Bigtime @Adam5 @Deerhead @Geezer Ray @bullethead @chase870 @Liberty @Mauser @SC Hunter @bullgator @jnorton @Bowyer29
@Darkhorse
@rmp

......what effect, if any, does bullet seating depth have on throat erosion ?
 
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Dub

Senior Member
Another question for everyone: @BriarPatch99 @Jester896@rosewood @menhadenman @Ruger#3 @deerslayer357 @Bobby Bigtime @Adam5 @Deerhead @Geezer Ray @bullethead @chase870@Liberty @Mauser @SC Hunter @bullgator @jnorton @Bowyer29 @Darkhorse
@rmp

Is there any validity to the following strategy:
* new barrel (6mm, for example)
* develop accurate load using 105gr bullet
* stick with it for a couple thousand rounds, until accuracy shifts noticed....group sizes grow from 1/4" to 1", for example
* borescope shows throat erosion has occurred
* desiring to extend the usable life of the barrel in this target rifle.... swap to a longer bullet from same maker, same product line, just moving from 105gr to 112gr (Barnes Match Burner, for example) and develop new accurate load....can this work ? Have you ever done so ?
 
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Jester896

Senior Clown
i think .25 cal and 3400 fps will contribute more than the seating depth.

even Barnes suggests starting at .050 off in their literature. My .25-06 is seated to the cannalure rather than the seating depth specified in the manual and it shoots in just about the same hole.

once you get the most accurate lowest ES/SD then it is time to play with seating depth. Start in .005 and then .002 on both sides to see if it comes in

you might add @rmp to your list too.
 

deerslayer357

Senior Member
Way over my head- but would think you would have to seat the second bullet out far enough to surpass the eroded throat- don’t know that that would be possible.
 

menhadenman

Senior Member
I think @Nimrod71 is @BriarPatch99 cousin...I'm getting forgetful though
I though all you South Georgia boys were cousins :bounce:

But yes I did monkey around at the bench early this morning before heading out.

Decided to anneal with my fancy handheld device on the back porch with a cup of coffee and the dog @Dub style.

Don’t know how many rules I’m breaking but I just hit the neck and shoulders until a light glow then set it down.
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Turns out those super hot 72 grains of Retumbo loads pushing 180s almost 3100 fps was definitely a little much. Peterson brass maybe 2-3 firings and I found 4 split necks. Glad I stepped it down for my latest recipe.

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Annealed brass!

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Didn’t have much more time but shot for 0.002-0.003” shoulder bump. Love that imperial wax from Redding.

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Next step: trim and debur, prime, and get ready for one more round of testing.
 

menhadenman

Senior Member
Another question for everyone: @BriarPatch99 @Jester896@rosewood @menhadenman @Ruger#3 @deerslayer357 @Bobby Bigtime @Adam5 @Deerhead @Geezer Ray @bullethead @chase870@Liberty @Mauser @SC Hunter @bullgator @jnorton @Bowyer29 @Darkhorse
@rmp

Is there any validity to the following strategy:
* new barrel (6mm, for example)
* develop accurate load using 105gr bullet
* stick with it for a couple thousand rounds, until accuracy shifts noticed....group sizes grow from 1/4" to 1", for example
* borescope shows throat erosion has occurred
* desiring to extend the usable life of the barrel in this target rifle.... swap to a longer bullet from same maker, same product line, just moving from 105gr to 112gr (Barnes Match Burner, for example) and develop new accurate load....can this work ? Have you ever done so ?
Another thing I’ve come to notice now that I’m looking - barrels seem to speed up a little after 75 rounds or so.

I think @Jester896 explanation sounds right to me. You can seat a little longer to close the jump if needed. Cortina has talked about this before he started cranking out videos that suck.

Don’t know about jumping to a heavier bullet. Seems that would change the equation quite a bit (less powder, more bearing surface, slower velocity, different harmonics etc).

Also like the idea of using more forgiving rounds like 308 for plinking and saving the barrel burners for when they’re needed.
 
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Jester896

Senior Clown
that reads a .004 shoulder bump if I'm looking at that right.

the bearing surface didn't change and the powder charge didn't change... but the other things could have. It may or may not change the velocity moving it in or out and that could change the harmonics a touch. Which is what you are really after I think. Darkhorse touched on that a while back.
 

menhadenman

Senior Member
that reads a .004 shoulder bump if I'm looking at that right.

the bearing surface didn't change and the powder charge didn't change... but the other things could have. It may or may not change the velocity moving it in or out and that could change the harmonics a touch. Which is what you are really after I think. Darkhorse touched on that a while back.

That’s correct - the spent brass varied a little bit so I went to 0.004” to make sure I got it all.

How likely is that? Seems like the chamber is what it is and those loads should max out the brass. Maybe I need some better calipers?

I made the mistake once of not bumping enough and wound up with about 1/3rd of my loads that wouldn’t chamber once I got to the range.
 

Jester896

Senior Clown
Also @Jester896 how valuable do you think a real annealer would be for a guy like myself - mostly hunting and target shooting, maybe 1-2k rifle rounds/year?
I think it is invaluable...but that is me. The reason I say that is your method is very common place. However, when I set mine up and run it with Tempilaq, the indicator melts, I am not able to see the case turn red in the dark and it leaves a nice honey color on the brass. I use 750* indicator. If it is turning red it is hotter than 750*. IIRC brass anneals at a lower temp than 750*. I think that is just closer to the middle of not enough and too much, 950* I think...you might look that up to be sure.

I understand that you are able to see variances in the brass that is available already annealed. I think that is from the type of annealing that was done. Salt bath may show a different result than the flame type. Both are annealed and probably and closer to correct in either case.

This is not to suggest that you run out and buy an annealer. Maybe if you use a lower temp indicator and slow turned the brass in a drill you could get a more uniform result with what you have on hand>
 

menhadenman

Senior Member
So if a guy were to jump in without dropping $2k on AMP, what would you recommend?

I was looking at the Annealeez a while back, they're around $275 now. I think I was checking out the AGS at some point also, just over $200. Might mess around and get something like that. Feels like getting another 5 loadings out of my brass would probably pay for itself in a year or two.

 
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