I have had guns with "barn door" springs description. I have upgraded the springs in several Taurus revolvers with the wilson's. Really makes an improvement over factory. But as Chuck did, you have to check for reliability. In my 607, it now has an awesome double action pull. In the 605 and 85 they are nice also. I tried the Wilson's in the 941 (22mag) and it is very unreliable. It will fire in single action but is hit and miss in double. Seems rimfires takes a harder hit to ignite, so that gun sits with the factory springs. I polished everything in it I could, action is smooth as silk, but still has the "barn door" springs in it.
Always keep an extra 9V battery for the chronograph. The Caldwell has room for an extra in the battery compartment. Inevitably, you will leave it on and the battery will be dead when you get to the range (assuming it doesn't have an auto off feature), or just die on it's own.
Chronographs make liars out of a lot of people... Folks will read the load data and assume they are getting that velocity in their gun, not considering barrel length and other factors. Kind of reminds me of those added horsepower gadgets for an automobile. Someone will put 10 items that "add" 20 hp to your car, they add them all up and say that is what they are getting. It don't work that way.
Rosewood
The lightest trigger reset spring would be great, it didn't come close to working.
The hammer spring is solid. I wasn't concerned with ignition as mush as trigger reset under firing conditions. Inexpensive improvement, but it ain't custom trigger like at all.
You will need something like a tiny hex wrench or paper clip to contain the hammer spring for removal.
A word or two of caution.
I use a stiff nylon/plastic rod (a punch) moving it from top to bottom of the grip/mainspring opening lifting ever so slowly to encourage the side plate off. I've been inside a pile of S&W's and not had an issue with this method. Just remember there are small protrusions at the top securing the plate.
Though I've never had it occur, it has been said of the alloy frames to keep testing with the side plate removed to a minimum.
Bottom line, after installing the 14lb trigger and replacement hammer spring I recommend squeezing the side plate back in place before dry firing.
This is a bit more troublesome with the hammerless 42 series, but I believe it's worth it.
I safely dry fired my wife's several times before reinstalling the screws.
I know, I'm worse than any "Old Woman" worrying about what can go wrong!
I reckon I wear it with pride...
Hope this helps.
I’ve got the American Predator carbine in .308 and it’s one of the most accurate rifles I have. I put a .450 bushmaster magazine in it and have zero feed issues.It's in my Valentine's Day thread, but I thought I would post this here too.
Had an opportunity to shoot the Ruger American Predator Friday.
I was under dressed for the occasion. It looked much warmer than it felt at Little River. The cold wind cut right through T and long sleeve over shirt.
I hadn't taken any time to prepare any specific loads to test the carbine, so I put some together with components I had ready to load.
I had two pieces of primed Lake City pull down brass that I had accidentally allowed to get submersed in acetone while removing the tar like waterproofing from the neck. I had read that acetone didn't ruin primers so here was my chance to find out.
I loaded the two with 45.5grs of Varget and 150gr Nosler Ballistic Tips @ 2.795" for reliable feed due to the magazine's limitation.
I had six pieces of commercial brass that I had pulled the previous loads from because they were unidentified. I had FL sized without depriming and uniformed the length at 2.005". I put the same 45.5gr charge of Varget behind some Speer 165gr boat tail soft points @2.795 OAL.
No dope on either load, just pulled it out of the air.
Cleaning rod in tow here we go.
From an Uncle Bud's bull bag I took one shot at 50yds with the 150's to get it near zero. Acetone doesn't seem to harm primers!
The picture below show my last three shots at 100 yds. The scope @ 12X.
I cleaned between the first few rounds, but the cold took its toll on my patience. My truck thermometer displayed 43° but it felt much colder in the windy shade. When my cold hands wouldn't hardly pull the patch through the eye of the jag, I knew it was time to go.
May have been the cold fingers, but I didn't notice any creep while shooting. This little carbine shows real promise! Regardless of model or caliber I don't think I've ever had a Ruger centerfire rifle do better. If you factor in the out of nowhere loads, the wind, and my self inflicted discomfort this is quite good for a first outing.
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I’ve got the American Predator carbine in .308 and it’s one of the most accurate rifles I have. I put a .450 bushmaster magazine in it and have zero feed issues.
Well I'm back. We had a great time today. It was a little cool but we could shoot without worrying about the barrels over heating. As I have said I changed the scope on the 22-250 and I needed to get it sighted in. I throw together a load of 33.2 gr. of 2520 and 55 gr. Dogtown bullets for a cheap sight in. First I placed by target at 25 yards to help get the scope on the paper. This scope had been on another rifle so it was off the factory center. I fired the first shot, no hole to be seen. I fired another round, no hole. I pulled the bolt out and looked down the bore. when I found the target and looked back though the scope it was off about 5 inches high and 4 inches to the left. No problem the Vortex scope has target turrets and 1/8 adjustments. I move the top turret down 5 inches and the side over 5 inches. Replaced bolt and fired again. No hole, I fired again No hole What the heck is wrong? I pulled the bolt again and looked down the bore. Lined up the target, I looked back through the scope, Still of the paper. Now what the Heck? We talked the problem over, not one answer that sounded right. Then like a lighten bolt it hit me, the turrets are 1/8 at 100 yds, the target is at 25. You need more adjustments. This time I didn't bother with the numbers I just set the rifle up on the bags lined up the bore with the target and went to turning the turrets. It worked, next shot on one inch low at 25 yds. I set up a target at 100 yds., fired a round. A hole appeared about 2 inches high, I fired another round, another hole about an 1/8 inch from the first. Both holes were directly above the target dot. I moved the turret down two inches and fired again, hole inside of dime circle. I fired again, hole center of dime circle. I fired again, hole half inside of first hole. The 250 is sighted in and ready to go.
I am impressed with the load because it is a great shooting load made with a cheap powder and cheap bullet.
Now the 6 mm story. Todays bullets are Sierra 70 gr. Match Kings. Ten loaded with IMR 4064 and Ten loaded with IMR 4895. I shot 5 of the 4064 first. The five shot group covered about and inch. I let the barrel cool down for 15 minutes, then fired the other five 4064 rounds. Just about the same size group. Another 15 minute cool down. I fired the first 4895, hole center of dot. I fired second round, no hole to be seen. What happened? I fired another round, hole about 1/8 inch from first hole. I fired another round, hole touching third round hole. I fired fifth round, hole about 1/4 inch about first hole. I walked down to check target and find second shot location. I found the second shot and first shot made one big hole. All shots within a dime size dot and two making one hole. I was happy and pleased with my rifle and my shooting.
Another good day at the range with my friends. Oh, they shot good too. Two of them shot a lot better groups than I did, but their rifles and scopes cost a lot more than mine.
With the factory supplied magazine the rifle wouldn’t hardly feed well at all. I had to work the bolt back and forth to chamber a round. It was like the angle from the top of the mag to the chamber was to great. There is a lot of info on these magazine feed issues on line. The .450 bushmaster mag makes them basically a straight shot from magazine to to chamber.What issue(s) were you experiencing?
I have only noticed that dropping one in from the top ain't too likely to load smoothly. It seems to operate more like a controlled round feed from the magazine.
I'm no proponent of detachable mags on a hunting rifle to start with. I much prefer a floorplate or blind mag. More times than I like to admit I have arrived at the hunting land only to discover the magazine didn't make the trip! (Tikka T3 at least twice)
That said, with maybe a total of 10 function cycled when assembling the ammo and what few I shot Friday, so far if I load three in the mag it has cycled without issue.
I just read where the .308's were shipped with 4 round mags. Mine is marked something like .308/.243 Multi Cal, but it only holds 3 rounds. I wonder if this is Ruger's answer to past magazine/feed issues?
It loads more like a typical pistol mag. Start in at the front of the magazine and slide the round back as you push down.
With the factory supplied magazine the rifle wouldn’t hardly feed well at all. I had to work the bolt back and forth to chamber a round. It was like the angle from the top of the mag to the chamber was to great. There is a lot of info on these magazine feed issues on line. The .450 bushmaster mag makes them basically a straight shot from magazine to to chamber.
The .450 mag will only hold 3 rounds I believe but is a more conventional type magazine.
Excellent choice of scope sir. Mine has a Zeiss 3x9 on it as well. I am really happy with it. Good luck on the range!!I'll try to get a pic up of mine. From your description it sounds like Ruger followed the public's response and changed mags. Mine is a 3 round staggered.
Thanks for letting me know.
I changed the scope on mine last night. I ended up going with what I had on hand. I left the factory P rail and used Warne Maxima Vertical rings to mount a Zeiss 3X9.
It feels a lot better. I loaded a box of the 165gr Speer to get it zero'd again.