Gun safe regrets.....what are yours ???

Thread starter #41
Not really a regret just yet but I do want a walk in safe. Also not a regret but more of a critique; why do most sages come with the least accessible rifle stage racks ever. Gotta dig through 5 to get to 1. Never mind that I’m banging valuable collectible guns off of one another but in a hurry, you’d be wrapping with your guns in one hand and a burglar in the other haha. None of the racks in either of my big safes came with racks designed for rifles stored with loaded magazines.

Also, I use keypads. I switch out the batteries when I switch out the batteries on the exterior doors of the house, which is annually.

Anywho, for now, the safes I’ve got do their job. Keep my kids hands off of guns, valuables and documents.

Agreed on the tight rifle storage aggravation.

Scoped rifles & bolts will eat up three spot each.
 
as far as I know???…. sure would hate to find out when the crown moulding pulls away from the ceiling
Three years in and no problems noted.
 
Not really a regret just yet but I do want a walk in safe. Also not a regret but more of a critique; why do most sages come with the least accessible rifle stage racks ever. Gotta dig through 5 to get to 1. Never mind that I’m banging valuable collectible guns off of one another but in a hurry, you’d be wrapping with your guns in one hand and a burglar in the other haha. None of the racks in either of my big safes came with racks designed for rifles stored with loaded magazines.

Also, I use keypads. I switch out the batteries when I switch out the batteries on the exterior doors of the house, which is annually.

Anywho, for now, the safes I’ve got do their job. Keep my kids hands off of guns, valuables and documents.
When I ordered my safe I asked if it could be configured to hold scoped rifles and or rifles with magazines. They made the racks U shaped along the sides and rear wall with nothing in the middle to bump into. We have all found out that whatever the advertised capacity of a safe is, real world is about half that to Maybe 3/4 with scoped long guns.
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rosewood

Senior Member
Just a thought. For those on crawl space homes, you can get under the house and verify where the piers are and make sure you sit your safe on top of one if at all possible. That should mitigate the issue of a sagging floor. To find out where you are at in a room, you can pull the carpet back near a wall and drive a nail through the floor, then find where it came out under the house. You can leave the nail there. Of course if you know what you are doing, you could build a new pier of blocks directly under the safe location, but it wouldn't have a footer.

edit: Did a little more reading. If you do decided to build a pier to support the safe, do a little research on how to assemble one. Looks like there is a "termite" shield that is also necessary to keep those critters from climbing up.

Rosewood
 
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Yep..I’d think you could go under..level & tamp it down..then stack cap blocks until nearly touching. Then wedge whatever thickness of TREATED wood you need between the cap blocks + joists under the house. Don’t forget to use treated lumber & maybe treat the ground around that column of cap blocks. Should really beef up that section of floor👍
 
I have always gone with large jewelry safes with 2 dials and internal re-lockers just in case it gets banged around. Last one I left in a house we sold in the basement/ground level was a 7500# TRTL30x6. The door alone was 2000#. price wasn't that bad and we did get a pretty nice reduction in insurance for personal items. It doesn't take long to surpass the cost of a safe with guns, glittery stuff, and other valuables. Have another on the way now. When I leave the house I want my stuff there when I get back. At these weights and where they are installed, there is no moving them. When you get right down to it a safe is just there to buy time, yes with enough time, equipment anything can be opened, that's where alarms and other measures come into play to assist in that time factor. Check prices on eBay, you'll be surprised at how reasonable they really can be, and yes they are going to be ground installed since the floor loading (reinforcement!)becomes a big factor. Most times these safes become white elephants and folks just want to get rid of them, usually only real cost will be moving them but that too can be negotiable and somewhat reasonable..also you are only going to usually move only one time!
 

Jester896

Senior Member
Unless it is a composite type … a TRTL30x6 doesn’t have fire protection that many people seem to want in a home type safe.
Basically a TRTL30x6 rating means with the proper tools it may take 30 minutes to cut a hole in it big enough to put your fist in X6 means it is that way on all 6 sides.
 
Unless it is a composite type … a TRTL30x6 doesn’t have fire protection that many people seem to want in a home type safe.
Basically a TRTL30x6 rating means with the proper tools it may take 30 minutes to cut a hole in it big enough to put your fist in X6 means it is that way on all 6 sides.
Jester yes it did have a fairly respectable fire rating as we used it for an easier 24/7 access to important documents rather than waiting to have the bank open to access a safety deposit box! It was also installed in a concrete block ‘box’. My main point was that a real safe was not that much more than some of the fancy Gun safes! Thanks for adding the clarification of terms that I left out. There is a TX rated safe on eBay that is going for a pretty penny...way out of my league!
 

pse hunter

Senior Member
I don't have any regrets I bought one big enough hopefully to last me for a while it has a decent fire rating, but this did happen. I ordered it with a mechanical dial because I didn't want anything electronic. Liberty end up sending it to the dealer with electronic lock and I was like okay I guess I'll take it. it would have been $100 up charge. two weeks later it locked me out it took the locksmith four and a half hours to get into the safe, now the good news is Liberty took care of it and overnighted me a mechanical dial lock that was actually better than what was supposed to be on there. that's been five six years and everything's still fine
 

pse hunter

Senior Member
I also went ahead and reinforced the floor under my safe I think mine is 1000lbs empty so I definitely wanted to make sure it was secure luckily mine was close to a shaker seal I doubled the floor joist and then added in some 6x6 post
 
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