Hornady brass?

[Jester896]

@bullgator I think there is a little over $100 in the one we made. It looks like that would work well. I keep looking at the AMP but no way I'm going to spend that. I have access to several, one a Ken Light with a Dillon Case Feeder attached. It would be nice to not have to go somewhere else to do it...one might be in my future.

 

[rosewood]

I put a deep well socket on my drill, drop the cartridge case in the socket, stand the torch up on work bench and turn the brass in the flame tip. Seems like I timed it at a count of 11 to be just right then I dump it in a bowl of water. Has worked quite well for me when needed.

I would like some sort of automatic rig though.

Annealing really extends the life of brass.

Rosewood

 

[Ray357]

I load Hornady brass for my 6.5x55 and I've never had a problem with it.

I ordered some Winchester brass a couple years ago for my Swede, and it was the worst stuff I've ever seen. Split necks, necks cut on an angle, flash holes not punched correctly, etc. I sent it back. It was unexcusable that something like that would leave the factory. I'll never buy Winchester brass again.

It happens to all of them except the premiums. A gunsmith I deal with told me he had been messing with a rifle for a few months only to find it was not his chamber but bad batch of Hornaday brass. You can't rule out a manufacturer for one bad batch. It happens.

 

[Ray357]

I put a deep well socket on my drill, drop the cartridge case in the socket, stand the torch up on work bench and turn the brass in the flame tip. Seems like I timed it at a count of 11 to be just right then I dump it in a bowl of water. Has worked quite well for me when needed.

I would like some sort of automatic rig though.

Annealing really extends the life of brass.

Rosewood

11? You must have a cold torch. I would melt the brass before 11. Definitely soften the web long before then.

 

[rosewood]

It happens to all of them except the premiums. A gunsmith I deal with told me he had been messing with a rifle for a few months only to find it was not his chamber but bad batch of Hornaday brass. You can't rule out a manufacturer for one bad batch. It happens.

Err, premiums?

I ordered some SSA brass (aka Nosler) in .260 Rem and the primer pockets were loose, had primers falling out. They replaced them for free with Nosler stamped brass. I have had a few primers fall out of them also. Don't know what is up with that.

Before I bought those, was converting Winchester head stamp .243 brass to .260, annealed it after using the process above. Haven't had a minutes of trouble with that brass either.

Rosewood

 

[rosewood]

11? You must have a cold torch. I would melt the brass before 11. Definitely soften the web long before then.

Going off memory, but that sounds right. I just use the standard propane torch. Put the short fat bottle on it so it stands up easily. The socket serves as a heat sink for the webbing also.

Rosewood

 

[rosewood]

@bullgator I think there is a little over $100 in the one we made.

Did you say you ordered a kit or built the kit? Where did you get the kit from?? I would probably anneal a lot more if I had one of those fancy schmancy automatic annealers...

Thanks,

Rosewood

 

[Jester896]

Tempilaq is your friend...it should be a light honey color when your done. Water squelching can change things too. Seems like the "Do It Yourself" annealer gets to temp at about 7 seconds.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/313492824042808536/

I thought Winchester made most of SSA brass...might be wrong

 

[rosewood]

Tempilaq is your friend...it should be a light honey color when your done. Water squelching can change things too. Seems like the "Do It Yourself" annealer gets to temp at about 7 seconds.

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/313492824042808536/

I thought Winchester made most of SSA brass...might be wrong

I would swap 100 new .22-250 or 100 new .243 Lapua cases for 100 new Lapua .260 cases

Pretty sure SSA is Noslers economy line.

I have temilaq, that is how I figured out how long to heat.

 

[killerv]

Only issues I've heard heard of with hornady brass was loose primer pockets after a few reloadings. I've always stayed away from it as there were other choices, but now, take what you can find.

 

[BriarPatch99]

I put a deep well socket on my drill, drop the cartridge case in the socket, stand the torch up on work bench and turn the brass in the flame tip. Seems like I timed it at a count of 11 to be just right then I dump it in a bowl of water. Has worked quite well for me when needed.

I would like some sort of automatic rig though.

Annealing really extends the life of brass.

Rosewood

This method works for me .....I darken the room so I see the faint color .... I count seconds after that ...

 

[Jester896]

good read
https://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

http://www.texas-mac.com/Annealing_Case_Necks.html

 

[doomtrpr_z71]

Ssa used to be premium brass and after nosler bought them they are about worthless. Ssa made their own brass until 2016 or 17 and had awesome 6.8 loads. Now they charge a premium for nosler bullets loaded in ssa cases that are anemic.

 

[Darkhorse]

When I'm doing accuracy work I anneal often. I will sort a number of brass by weight and manufacturer. Then Prepare the cases by cutting the burr from the inside flashhole, then run a primer pocket uniformer in each primer pocket, then deburr the case mouth and turn the case necks to 85%. I also anneal each case neck. I want each case to feel exactly the same when loading.

I've loaded a lot of Hornady brass over the years that worked good. But I have a box of .300 win mag. that has such a huge hard burr in the flash hole it's almost impossible to cut it out. I think I prepared 10 pieces of brass intended for accuracy testing. I quit after that because it was just too difficult. It wasn't worth it.
I don't understand Nosler brass. They make some big claims but continue to have many problems with the Quality.