Little help with my new Hawken .50

[pnome]

Hello all,


I just bought a new Cabelas Sporterized Hawken Carbine off gunbroker.com....

got a good deal on it.

Here are the details:

This Sporterized Hawken Carbine Rifle is short, light and has a bore big enough for use on heavy game, just like its predecessors. It features high-luster bluing, color case-hardened locks and select walnut stocks. Rifles are 38-1/2" overall and weigh 6-3/4 lbs. Twist is 1 in 24" barrel length is 21".

I'm thinking about what would be a good load for it. It has a fast twist so I should be able to use sabots or powerbelts rather than just patched round balls.

A few questions:

1) With that twist, can I still use patched round balls effectively?

2) It's is a side lock percussion, can I still use pyrodex pellets? Or should I go for loose pyrodex / black powder subs? Or should I use black powder?

3) If you own a Hawken, what sort of loads do you use for hunting? I'll be hunting mostly hogs on WMAs with it.

4) Why do Hawken rifles have two triggers?

5) What percussion caps would you recommend?

Any and all advice is appreciated.

TIA!

 

[bull0ne]

Hello all,


I just bought a new Cabelas Sporterized Hawken Carbine off gunbroker.com....

got a good deal on it.

Here are the details:


I'm thinking about what would be a good load for it. It has a fast twist so I should be able to use sabots or powerbelts rather than just patched round balls.

A few questions:

1) With that twist, can I still use patched round balls effectively?

2) It's is a side lock percussion, can I still use pyrodex pellets? Or should I go for loose pyrodex / black powder subs? Or should I use black powder?

3) If you own a Hawken, what sort of loads do you use for hunting? I'll be hunting mostly hogs on WMAs with it.

4) Why do Hawken rifles have two triggers?

5) What percussion caps would you recommend?

Any and all advice is appreciated.

TIA!

1. I feel like you could use patched round balls effectively but my choice is conicals..............heavy/prelubed buffalo bullets have worked well for me in the past.

2 & 3. You don't get dependable ignition with pellets in a sidelock. It's designed for loose powder. 90 grains of 777 is consider near maximum load IMO. Although anything down to 70 grains might shoot better and still get the job done.

4. The back trigger is a set trigger that can be pulled first to lighten the front trigger for more accurate shooting.

5. I personally have a preference,as long they are dry & fresh.

 

[7Mag Hunter]

I agree with BullOne...

I have shot a .54 cal Hawken for over 20yrs...Mine is
older model and slow twist so I stick mostly to patched
balls....I do shoot maxi balls if shot is very close, but a
round ball packs plenty enough punch to kill a deer or pig..

Round balls are cheap to shoot, and fun so I suggest you
experiment some just to get used to loading, shooting
and yes "cleaning" the gun....
Just make sure the patched round ball is tight to load and
seated firmly on top of the powder.Try different material
for patches, untill you get a very snug fit...Loose, easy to
load balls will not be very accurate...

Use only loose powder and experiment untill you get a
good accurate load...To much powder will not completely
burn on ignition, and just cause your gun to fowl out to
quickly...I use about 80gr of Pyrodex in my Hawken and
the last deer I shot, I only had a head shot at about 40 yds.
Dropped like a stone....
Take your time when shooting, swab between target
practice shots, and make yourself up some moose milk
to help cut the crud out of the barrel...
Hot soapy water in a 5 gallon bucket for cleaning (barrel
removed of course) and make sure it is dry and oliled
good for storage. Keep the nipple plug out for storage,
and plenty of lube on it, as it will rust...I keep oiled strips
of T-shirt material in my bore, and nipple plug to "try" to
keep rust down....
You can "season" the barrel (kinda like a skillet), by using
Bore Butter...Bore Butter is a lube that is wax based vs
petroleum (oil) and can help seal the barrel....Just follow
the instructions on the tube...
Have fun. and keep us posted !!!

After you load the gun, "set" the rear trigger, as you get
ready to fire then cock and fire using the front trigger....
Your trigger pull may be adjustable (mine is) so you can
get a very light front trigger pull for optimum accuracy...

 

[pnome]

Moose milk?

 

[7Mag Hunter]

Take a liter (or quart) bottle 1/2 full of WARM water..
Add 2oz each of alcohol, Murphies oil soap, and Napa
water based oil (machine cutting oil) ...Shake till mixed
good (turns white)...Fill with more water...
Lots of different "recipes" out there, but I have used this
one for 20 yrs...
Used as patch lube and to swab bore after 3-5 shots,
during target/sighting in....After you swab the bore, use
dry patch before next shot...Make sure barrel is dry...
Not used as a long term storage solution...
Clean with hot soapy water before storage....And lube with
Bore Butter..

More info avail in links from Woodies Taxidermy site....
Click on Woodies Taxidermy logo (all GON pages) and
then click on muzzleloading links....
PM for more info/tips..

 

[pnome]

Thanks 7mag!

 

[LOVEMYLABXS]

One thing I'd like to mention after cleaning and putting it away for storeage when you pull it out the next time pop 4 to 6 caps before loading a charge this will clear any oil left in the barrel if you don't when you load your first charge it can push the oil into the nipple causing a miss fire. If this happens sometimes you can get lucky and a second or third cap might make it go BOOM if not you'll need to pull the nipple and put a few grains of powder in put the nipple back and try again. It's a pretty sicking sound when it just goes pop instead of BOOM when a couple of minutes and a few pennies for the caps will keep this from happening. Good luck with the new rifle and ENJOY nothin like the smell of blackpowder in the air

 

[frankwright]

I would not think you will get any accuracy with that fast of a twist and a patched round ball. The best for patched round balls are 1:66 to 1:48 twist rate.

That faster twist like yours would work better with a lead bullet or even a sabot.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[leoparddog]

I agree with FrankWright. I don't think you'll get decent accuracy with P.R.B.s at 50yards. You might, but I'm kinda doubting it. PRBs work best with slower twists starting around 1:48. The upside is that it won't cost you much to find out as Round Balls are pretty cheap. Give them a try and see.

I've shot the Pyrodex Pellets out of my sidelock Hawkens but the accuracy was terrible, due I think to inconsistent ignition and burn. It did always fire. I thought it was the gun until I went back to loose Pyrodex and it shot like a tack driver again.

Black Powder works as well as Pyrodex, but Black Powder does foul my barrel faster and is reputed to promote rusting and corrosion faster.

I've always used hot soapy water to clean my barrel and followed it up with Bore Butter. My smokepole is over 20 yrs old and while my patches never come out spotless, my barrel has no rust. Much like my cast iron frying pans.

A 300-350gr MaxiBall type bullet or Saboted Bullet will work well for you. Buffalo Bullets and TC make some good solid lead projectiles. If I'm shooting Sabots in mine (1:48" twist -28" barrel) the lightest I go is a 265gr WFNGC Cast Performance LBT for a 45Colt sitting in a .455 Sabot. Sort of a roll your own Sabot load.

My best loads are a 300gr Lead bullet with 90gr Pyrodex
- 350gr bullet with 100gr Pyrodex (ouch!) and
- 265gr WFNGC CPLBT Sabot with 80gr Pyrodex

 

[pnome]

Thanks for the responses, I can't wait till it gets here in the mail!

I have some more questions but I think I'll make another thread for that.

Keep the advise coming this is all great stuff!

 

[Sutallee]

Check out www.muzzleloadingforum.com. Those guys wil answer any muzzleloader question that you have.