LVP Question

ribber

Senior Member
Didn't want to hijack 4hand's thread from last month.

I've been in the process of doing some home renovations. Have put sheet rock in some ceilings, ripped out all the old dingy carpet, paint, overhauled bathroom, etc.
For last few months, been trying to get a contractor to install LVP in the entire house and some won't call back or no shows. I did get one price from a guy but decided to get a few more. Had another guy come measure but he ghosted me and never gave me a price, and got another to give me a price last week. The last guy said I needed 1/4 inch plywood as a subfloor because I have hardwood floors. The first two didn't mention this. Is this required? I can't find anything on Google that supports this. I thought the better LVP had attached underlayment and didn't require subfloor or additional underlays? His price was $3000 more due to this.
I'm about ready to just do it myself. I didn't think it would take this long to find someone to lay flooring.
 

TomC

Senior Member
Buddy and I did my place in LVP. Stuff rips and crosscuts nicely on a tablesaw but makes a MESS so I'd cut it outside. Definitely sort the planks into matching stacks so you don't end up with the same planks next to or across from one another. Mine is laid directly on top of the slab! Stuff is durable once in place but even the best LVP will chip easily at the connection points so handle with care as you are taking the planks out of the boxes!
 

ribber

Senior Member
Maybe the installer seen some imperfections like separation, dips, gaps, raises or loose boards of your old hardwood flooring.. is it tongue and groove ?

The better plank flooring has a spongy type material to help deaden sound but it's critical that the plank's joints, especially the 2 butt-ends to NOT coincide with any of your old hardwood's imperfections.

Do what your heart feels right, but Lauan, with the pre-printed X's for the crown-staple's location will flatten out and smooth over any sub-floor's imperfections and is relatively easy to install, just time spent on your knees wearing hearing protection. Your hardwood floor will never be usable again though.
He said it was required for floating floor on hardwood which I've never heard before. My existing is tongue and groove and in decent shape, no wet or warp or gaps. There are some small gaps around some of the edges where it meets the molding, but quarter round will be on top of that.
 

4HAND

Cuffem & Stuffem Moderator
Staff member
BTW, we're still looking. So many different colors & shades.
 

chase870

Possum Sox
None of my business, & I don't want to sound wrong, but why not refinish your existing floor?
Real hardwood is a treasure!
This is the ticket. I was able to refinish the floors in my office cheaper than cover them when I remodeled it
 

ribber

Senior Member
None of my business, & I don't want to sound wrong, but why not refinish your existing floor?
Real hardwood is a treasure!
I agree they are a treasure, but we mainly like the durability of the LVP. Hardwood scratches easily. Plus, LVP would give a slight insulation. My house has no type of insulation in the crawl space and the floors can be cold.
Also, the den and spare bedroom downstairs have slat type wood floors with linoleum on them currently, and we want all the floors to match downstairs.
 

4HAND

Cuffem & Stuffem Moderator
Staff member
I agree they are a treasure, but we mainly like the durability of the LVP. Hardwood scratches easily. Plus, LVP would give a slight insulation. My house has no type of insulation in the crawl space and the floors can be cold.
Also, the den and spare bedroom downstairs have slat type wood floors with linoleum on them currently, and we want all the floors to match downstairs.
I gotcha. Makes sense.
 

hopper

Senior Member
Man that's Crazy not being able to find anyone. I get everyone is busy now but never understood a contractor that can't just say we are booked until .......
I've looked at projects I didn't want to do before and just tell the customer we are respectfully declining said project.
It is what it is. DIY for those floors All Day Looooong!!!
 

Flash

Actually I Am QAnon
I agree they are a treasure, but we mainly like the durability of the LVP. Hardwood scratches easily. Plus, LVP would give a slight insulation. My house has no type of insulation in the crawl space and the floors can be cold.
Also, the den and spare bedroom downstairs have slat type wood floors with linoleum on them currently, and we want all the floors to match downstairs.
Don't they make something to finish the hardwood with that would be durable?? We put hardwood in our house when built, (going on 20 yrs ago) and IMO it has held up pretty well, kids, grandkids, me. Don't know what mine is coated with.

Note: Might not have been clear, I was talking about refinishing like @4HAND
 

bany

Senior Member
Didn't want to hijack 4hand's thread from last month.

I've been in the process of doing some home renovations. Have put sheet rock in some ceilings, ripped out all the old dingy carpet, paint, overhauled bathroom, etc.
For last few months, been trying to get a contractor to install LVP in the entire house and some won't call back or no shows. I did get one price from a guy but decided to get a few more. Had another guy come measure but he ghosted me and never gave me a price, and got another to give me a price last week. The last guy said I needed 1/4 inch plywood as a subfloor because I have hardwood floors. The first two didn't mention this. Is this required? I can't find anything on Google that supports this. I thought the better LVP had attached underlayment and didn't require subfloor or additional underlays? His price was $3000 more due to this.
I'm about ready to just do it myself. I didn't think it would take this long to find someone to lay flooring.
No sir
 

Dennis

Senior Member
Myers flooring in Loganville did a great job for us more than once Not sure how far they go out but they do a good job at a fair price it would be worth a call
 

Geffellz18

Senior Member
My suggestion would be to save your $$$ & hassle and do it yourself. I did my entire first level solo in 3 days. Stuff lays down Much easier than any other flooring I’ve done. And unfortunately I’ve done them all.
Have no idea about the 1/4” subfloor statement, but see no reason that it would be needed, let alone be required!
 

DannyW

Senior Member
My suggestion would be to save your $$$ & hassle and do it yourself. I did my entire first level solo in 3 days. Stuff lays down Much easier than any other flooring I’ve done. And unfortunately I’ve done them all.
Have no idea about the 1/4” subfloor statement, but see no reason that it would be needed, let alone be required!

Agree. I've done a bunch of hardwood in my own homes, and those of friends. Even did a room in the basement with glue down on a slab. LVP can't be harder than that.

About the hardest thing laying flooring is your base molding, and your doors. I always remove the base, if you do it carefully it can be reused, because if you don't it will look "short" after laying down your floor and putting in some quarter-round. Base molding should always ride on top of your flooring.

I don't know how thick LVP is but you may have to take a little off your doors to get clearance. Someone may know a better way but I cut off a door from each side and meet the cuts in the middle. If you don't, you will splinter the edge of the door.

As for the 1/4" plywood, I have laid it down over particle board sub-flooring, but only to give the hardwood something to nail in to. Having never done LVP, the only thing I will say is maybe lay out a section and then walk on it. That will probably tell you if you need plywood under the LVP.

Good luck whatever you do.
 

elfiii

Admin
Staff member
Just do it yourself. It's easy. A floating floor doesn't care what's under it as long as it's flat and solid

Pretty much. Get a good flat surface underneath and snap it together. After we had ours done I realized I could have DIY for chump change.
 
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