Michigan, has just about everything a freshwater fly fisherman would want.

redneck_billcollector

Purveyor Of Fine Spirits
Just got back from Michigan, spending a week in the woods doing a little fly fishing and exploring. I happened to be lucky enough to hit the area just in time for the peak Chinook/King Salmon run on the Pere Marquette. My first day there was one of frustration, the spots I checked out were shoulder to shoulder fishermen from all over, saw tags from Florida, Georgia, lots of Kentucky and at least a dozen other states lining the forestry service roads that had easy access to the river.

After a day of riding around and studying maps without even attempting to brave the crowds I found a spot that required a little bit of a hike and was not crowded. After getting down to the river the second day, there were only two people there, and they were both taking a nap on the bank of the river waiting for the afternoon bite to kick off. One of the gentlemen has fished the river for Kings for over 20 years religiously and took me under his wing showing me what works. He even gave me about 30 flies that he tied that are "hot" on the river.

Well, I got there and saw salmon everywhere in the river, and man were they big. I suddenly felt sort of under gunned with my 8wt, especially when both the men were using 10wts. I did not want to go over 12lb tippet because I did not want to run the risk of breaking my rod. This apparently was a smart move, because one of the men had already broken a 10wt, they were using straight 40 leaders (apparently popular which leads to a lot of broken rods according to the owner of 1884 Fly Shop). Not knowing what I was doing, I cast early on into a huge pod of salmon and snagged one, there was no turning him, I do not even think he knew he was snagged for the first few minutes, it felt like I hooked the bottom and for a while thought I was, except there was a slight throbbing.....when he finally realized he was hooked, well, he took off downstream and broke me off. I ended up repeating that scenario a few times before I was informed what I was doing wrong.

The man who took me under his wing gave me a bag of metallic blue stonefly nymphs in sizes 6 and 4 and then things turned around. For whatever reason, those salmon got very upset when they saw one and attacked them. I stopped accidently snagging them and was mouth hooking them. They would jump and I had one greyhound like a blue marlin, it was fun, but most would get into the current after a while and then head straight for one of the many fallen trees in the river. I must have lost around 20, some throwing the hook, and some breaking off, but every one of those losses taught me something. I finally caught one, fighting it for around 20 or so minutes (sure seemed longer) to get it to hand. I was one happy camper, both figuratively and in reality. After a few photos it was released (the Pere Marquette is a fly fishing, catch and release only river), to die in the next day or so after it completed spawning. My very next cast I had a repeat, another male, slightly smaller and another 20 or so minute fight. It was getting dark and I decided it was time to make the hike back to my camp, and it was a good thing, I came dragging in about 25 minutes after dark on a trail that I could barely make out even with a head lamp (not to mention seeing two bears in the area that day). In the photo of the second salmon, it looks like I excited it, but in reality, me being a novice and not knowing what I was doing, I was holding him in a manner that made him expel a good bit of his milt (you can see my mistake in the photo). In the end, I got me two nice King Salmon on an 8wt using 12lb tippet and lost about 20 more.....

Feeling my oats I figured I would head north and try to catch a Coho/Siver Salmon, which you can keep and eat. I moved camp about 100 or so miles north to the Platte River where rumor had it, a Coho run was in the process.

Well, I got there and it sadly was the tail end of the run, I was hearing "you should have been here last week". However, there were enough in the river to have a lot of fishermen there. This river has different regs, you can use bait and keep the fish. Well, there were some snaggers, and I am sad to say this, from Georgia and "flossers" and bait slingers all over the place. I found a stretch where there were some and I fished hard, wanting just one on a fly in the mouth. I started fishing around lunch time and fished to around midnight on the first day going 0 for 2. A massive male, that would have been a trophy by any standards ate a purple egg sucking leech, size 6 and jumped for the sun. Stripping out line and I could not get him turned in time before he made it into the timber and broke off, I was using a lighter tippet then, I do believe 8lb. About an hour later I hooked a hen that jumped twice and threw the hook. No more bites. But I know where to find them and am already planning my trip for next fall. On an aside note I fished all the next day but did not see many salmon, so I broke out my spey rod (I purchased it at the fly-fishing expo a few years back when I had been drinking and never used it) and practiced casting. I was throwing egg patterns under an indicator when all of a sudden, the last big school I saw came blasting through, got the fly perfectly out in front and a couple showed interest, but they did not commit.

I learned a lot this trip, to include the fact that Michigan has a native population of grayling which I will be back to chase. If you never thought about going to Michigan as a fly fisherman, go! They have Rainbow, Brown and Brook Trout. They have King, Coho, Pink and Atlantic Salmon along with a world class Steelhead fishery. They have smallmouth and largemouth bass along with Northern Pike and Muskies that people target with flies along with the afore mentioned grayling. And I only fished the Lower Peninsula and did not even hit the UP. 461770791_10220276444660217_386667352610649488_n.jpg461846335_10220263078206064_7969694464518976504_n (1).jpg461556145_10220263077846055_7201567152112743019_n (1).jpg461820466_10220263568938332_6719939088456096089_n.jpg
 

NCHillbilly

Administrator
Staff member
Looks like a good trip!
 

redneck_billcollector

Purveyor Of Fine Spirits
Looks like an excellent trip! How did your overlanding rig do?
It did great. I built it specifically to do trips like this one. I have been talking with a guy I know who fabricates items for these rigs to make me some rod lockers to fit between the bulkhead and the cab out of the way. That is the one thing with vehicles like this, storage is always at a premium, especially when you are living out of it for a week or more.

I have caught Gila trout in New Mexico out of it, fished the North Shore of Lake Superior for Pink Salmon out of it and all over the southern Appalachians out of it. If you like to fly fish and dream of going to all the places you read about in your youth (and adulthood) it opens a lot of doors for you. There is a company, 4 Wheel Campers, that makes a model just for fly fishermen, with rod lockers, etc....it is called the Orvis Edition. I toyed with maybe getting one of those, but a lot of the places, especially in the southern Appalachians, a full-sized truck just won't get you away from the crowds a lot of the times. I have been able to fish Blue Ridge WMA on a three-day weekend where I never bumped into another fisherman on the stream even though the easy to reach sections were shoulder to shoulder in places.
 
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redneck_billcollector

Purveyor Of Fine Spirits
Looks like a good trip!
Already planning a trip for next year and going to throw in a little grouse hunting too like I did last year in Minnesota. Lots of grouse up there. They still log the Manistee NF and I saw a lot of them and a lot of wild turkeys driving the FS roads. It wasn't like Minnesota though, the roads in this area, as is the land, is very sandy and you do not see them graveling in the afternoon like you do in Minnesota.

There is an out of the way Forestry Service Campground on the Pere Marquette that for a day, it was only me and one other camper in during the week. I understand it fills up on the weekends though, no reservations. If you want to come, grab your 8wt and larger rods and camping gear and come along. I got a senior citizens lifetime NP pass for the Platte, which is almost all in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Shores Park. The weir where they catch the Coho is in the park so all the coho fishing is also in the park. There is a really large campground that has four loops that each have around 60 spots which puts you close to the river.

In the FS campground on the Pere Marquette, you can park two vehicles. There is also a couple of places you can rent inflatable drift boats for the day if that is what you want to do, they pick you up and bring you back at the end of the day. Nick had talked about going up this year with me, but in the end he couldn't. If you like stream fishing and catching "teen aged" tarpon on a fly rod, this is the closest you will come to that combination. An 8wt would do, and I imagine a glass 8wt would be a blast and actually allow you to put more pressure on them. You do not need to cast far and I was the only one double hauling (out of habit) and casting very far which is what led to more foul hooking, I think. Plus the Manistee River is a blue-ribbon trout stream with browns this time of year that can get huge. They night fly fish with mouse patterns for them and I saw photos of some that were around 10lbs at the fly shop. I will definitely bring a glass rod next time because you are casting with a split shot most of the time and accidentally dinging your graphite rod can lead to a disaster.
 

redneck_billcollector

Purveyor Of Fine Spirits
Looks like a good trip!
Here is the weir where the DNR gets its eggs for the hatchery for the Coho salmon on the Platte. They let some few that spawn naturally where they can find gravel. There simply is not that much gravel in the river, it is largely sand bottomed with a rock here and there. They put 2 million or more baby coho in the river every year.
 

trout maharishi

Senior Member
Just got back from Michigan, spending a week in the woods doing a little fly fishing and exploring. I happened to be lucky enough to hit the area just in time for the peak Chinook/King Salmon run on the Pere Marquette. My first day there was one of frustration, the spots I checked out were shoulder to shoulder fishermen from all over, saw tags from Florida, Georgia, lots of Kentucky and at least a dozen other states lining the forestry service roads that had easy access to the river.

After a day of riding around and studying maps without even attempting to brave the crowds I found a spot that required a little bit of a hike and was not crowded. After getting down to the river the second day, there were only two people there, and they were both taking a nap on the bank of the river waiting for the afternoon bite to kick off. One of the gentlemen has fished the river for Kings for over 20 years religiously and took me under his wing showing me what works. He even gave me about 30 flies that he tied that are "hot" on the river.

Well, I got there and saw salmon everywhere in the river, and man were they big. I suddenly felt sort of under gunned with my 8wt, especially when both the men were using 10wts. I did not want to go over 12lb tippet because I did not want to run the risk of breaking my rod. This apparently was a smart move, because one of the men had already broken a 10wt, they were using straight 40 leaders (apparently popular which leads to a lot of broken rods according to the owner of 1884 Fly Shop). Not knowing what I was doing, I cast early on into a huge pod of salmon and snagged one, there was no turning him, I do not even think he knew he was snagged for the first few minutes, it felt like I hooked the bottom and for a while thought I was, except there was a slight throbbing.....when he finally realized he was hooked, well, he took off downstream and broke me off. I ended up repeating that scenario a few times before I was informed what I was doing wrong.

The man who took me under his wing gave me a bag of metallic blue stonefly nymphs in sizes 6 and 4 and then things turned around. For whatever reason, those salmon got very upset when they saw one and attacked them. I stopped accidently snagging them and was mouth hooking them. They would jump and I had one greyhound like a blue marlin, it was fun, but most would get into the current after a while and then head straight for one of the many fallen trees in the river. I must have lost around 20, some throwing the hook, and some breaking off, but every one of those losses taught me something. I finally caught one, fighting it for around 20 or so minutes (sure seemed longer) to get it to hand. I was one happy camper, both figuratively and in reality. After a few photos it was released (the Pere Marquette is a fly fishing, catch and release only river), to die in the next day or so after it completed spawning. My very next cast I had a repeat, another male, slightly smaller and another 20 or so minute fight. It was getting dark and I decided it was time to make the hike back to my camp, and it was a good thing, I came dragging in about 25 minutes after dark on a trail that I could barely make out even with a head lamp (not to mention seeing two bears in the area that day). In the photo of the second salmon, it looks like I excited it, but in reality, me being a novice and not knowing what I was doing, I was holding him in a manner that made him expel a good bit of his milt (you can see my mistake in the photo). In the end, I got me two nice King Salmon on an 8wt using 12lb tippet and lost about 20 more.....

Feeling my oats I figured I would head north and try to catch a Coho/Siver Salmon, which you can keep and eat. I moved camp about 100 or so miles north to the Platte River where rumor had it, a Coho run was in the process.

Well, I got there and it sadly was the tail end of the run, I was hearing "you should have been here last week". However, there were enough in the river to have a lot of fishermen there. This river has different regs, you can use bait and keep the fish. Well, there were some snaggers, and I am sad to say this, from Georgia and "flossers" and bait slingers all over the place. I found a stretch where there were some and I fished hard, wanting just one on a fly in the mouth. I started fishing around lunch time and fished to around midnight on the first day going 0 for 2. A massive male, that would have been a trophy by any standards ate a purple egg sucking leech, size 6 and jumped for the sun. Stripping out line and I could not get him turned in time before he made it into the timber and broke off, I was using a lighter tippet then, I do believe 8lb. About an hour later I hooked a hen that jumped twice and threw the hook. No more bites. But I know where to find them and am already planning my trip for next fall. On an aside note I fished all the next day but did not see many salmon, so I broke out my spey rod (I purchased it at the fly-fishing expo a few years back when I had been drinking and never used it) and practiced casting. I was throwing egg patterns under an indicator when all of a sudden, the last big school I saw came blasting through, got the fly perfectly out in front and a couple showed interest, but they did not commit.

I learned a lot this trip, to include the fact that Michigan has a native population of grayling which I will be back to chase. If you never thought about going to Michigan as a fly fisherman, go! They have Rainbow, Brown and Brook Trout. They have King, Coho, Pink and Atlantic Salmon along with a world class Steelhead fishery. They have smallmouth and largemouth bass along with Northern Pike and Muskies that people target with flies along with the afore mentioned grayling. And I only fished the Lower Peninsula and did not even hit the UP. View attachment 1334489View attachment 1334490View attachment 1334491View attachment 1334493
That looks like a nice trip. That's an interesting looking rig. Do you have to get up on top of it to sleep? I'd like to see more photos of it the next time you have it out.
 

fredw

Retired Moderator
Brings back memories of steel head on the Big Manistee, salmon on the Big Manistee and the Pere Marquette, trout on the Pine, Big Manistee, and the Au Sable. Grouse around old apple trees along the Big Manistee.

Michigan is a great place for sportsmen.

Thanks for sharing your adventure.
 

redneck_billcollector

Purveyor Of Fine Spirits
Brings back memories of steel head on the Big Manistee, salmon on the Big Manistee and the Pere Marquette, trout on the Pine, Big Manistee, and the Au Sable. Grouse around old apple trees along the Big Manistee.

Michigan is a great place for sportsmen.

Thanks for sharing your adventure.
Yeah, I really like it up there. The people by and large are very nice and for the outdoorsman, you have all the bases covered except for saltwater fishing. Plus, if you have a good southern drawl, people will buy you a beer just to keep you talking......
 

redneck_billcollector

Purveyor Of Fine Spirits
That looks like a nice trip. That's an interesting looking rig. Do you have to get up on top of it to sleep? I'd like to see more photos of it the next time you have it out
Here is a link to a thread about the build from when I first purchased the Gladiator through the build process and a number of trips in it. https://forum.gon.com/threads/build...ss-my-retirement-exploration-vehicle.1038800/

I am 63 and I can set up camp in under a minute and break camp in around the same time. The interior is secure, I have a propane fireplace built for the yachting industry for heat on those cold nights. I have camped in temperatures down to around 0F and was comfortable. In the past year I have probably 55 to 60 or more nights spent in it so far, from the Rocky Mountains, the Chihuahuan desert, the Great Plains, the Great Lakes Region, Florida, the Southern Appalachians from W.V. south and Cracker Barrel parking lots across the country....lol, those are where I spend the night when on the road heading to my ultimate destination.
 
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redneck_billcollector

Purveyor Of Fine Spirits
Sounds like you're living the dream brother. I hope to do the same thing at some point in the future.
I am enjoying myself and the vehicle, that is for sure. Just got back a couple of weeks ago from a just over two week trip out to New Mexico chasing public land Merriam's Turkeys. Had somewhat of an opportunity opening morning but decided to pass because I had two weeks out there, but in the end did a lot of exploring, got caught in a snowstorm, with lightning which was interesting and hunted hard hearing a lot of birds. Problem is, at least from what the locals were telling me, is that they are still pretty much "henned up" that time of year, hence hearing them everywhere in the morning, but them shutting up for the rest of the day. Some rugged and beautiful country though and saw lots of lion sign along with having some interesting camp visitors, had a bear one night, and a ring-tailed cat another.
 
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