New AR-15 Build...

Tight Lines

Senior Member
The handguard is 16.5" long for an 18" barrel and comes with a Ti barrel nut and Ti screws to mount to the barrel nut...it is lightweight lithium aluminum alloy M-Lok
 

Tight Lines

Senior Member
Is that buttstock fixed or adjustable?

Thanks

This stock is technically a fixed stock but is adjustable. That means it does not slide on the buffer tube like a collapsable scope, but the butt plate is adjustable as is the cheek riser for cheek weld. It isn't as light and short as a collapsable, but it is much stiffer and more supportive...it is heaver than you'd like to carry around all day, but it is great off the bench and still portable...
 

Tight Lines

Senior Member
So it is a little like Christmas here today...in addition to the items I posted earlier that have arrived I received the following today in the mail:

- V Seven Buffer Tube
- V Seven Ti Castle Nut & End Plate
- V Seven Ti Ambi Safety
- V Seven Mag Release Button
- Norgon Ambi Mag Release
- Geissele Maritime Bolt Catch
- Lantac Ti Take Down Pins
- JP Industries Captured Buffer Spring
- Precision Armament Hypertap Muzzle Device - Stainless
- Superlative Arms Adjustable Gas Block - Stainless

IMG_0728.JPG

The barrel is in production, and should arrive in a few weeks...then the cerakoting and a few odds and ends before I start assembling...

Pretty much have not spared any expense on this one, and have gone with mostly V Seven products, though I've tried to choose the best of the components for each function...
 

Tight Lines

Senior Member
I haven't delved into the precision AR world as of yet, all of mine are general use/hunting builds,

I agree with the adjustable gas block, I see those as a necessity,

You will love the JP industries silent capture spring, I have one, it makes for a much smoother shooting rifle,

I also have a Radian arms charging handle, good stuff.

I tend to like two stage triggers over single stage, they work better for me from a accuracy standpoint, preparing the shot by taking up the first stage, and then just a hair more for final break works better for me when shooting for groups especially

There are so many options on handguards, barrels, muzzle brakes, grips and stocks, it would be hard for me to decide for a build like that. Chances are whatever you choose as far as stocks and grips you'll likely change after shooting it a while, probably the same with muzzle brakes,

I'd say we think alike on the gas block, charging handle, buffer spring, and I went with a 2-stage Geissele trigger...so we'll see...where do you live? My lease is out in Washington or I go to Georgia Gun Club...maybe we can connect...
 

Jester896

Senior Clown
I have always wanted to try a JP Captured Buffer.
I have an adjustable gas block so to speak on my Adams Arms System...Off and On:D
The only place I see one would be handy is on my BLK. It might make it easier for me to shoot supersonic rounds without tearing something up.
I fired a carbine once with some kind of brake that actually felt like to be it pushed the barrel down...kind of a different feeling mitigation to me...wish the guy knew what brand it was.
 

transfixer

Senior Member
I have always wanted to try a JP Captured Buffer.
I have an adjustable gas block so to speak on my Adams Arms System...Off and On:D
The only place I see one would be handy is on my BLK. It might make it easier for me to shoot supersonic rounds without tearing something up.
I fired a carbine once with some kind of brake that actually felt like to be it pushed the barrel down...kind of a different feeling mitigation to me...wish the guy knew what brand it was.

I've got one of the Jp captured buffer springs on my 300blkout pistol, used to have it on a blkout rifle , biggest difference to me is it makes for a much smoother shooting recoil impulse, also quietens it down, you don't hear the "twang" of the recoil spring anymore, and they are adjustable but I'm just running the standard H1 configuration.
 

transfixer

Senior Member
I'd say we think alike on the gas block, charging handle, buffer spring, and I went with a 2-stage Geissele trigger...so we'll see...where do you live? My lease is out in Washington or I go to Georgia Gun Club...maybe we can connect...

I'm in Douglasville, and my lease is in Oglethorpe county, between Lexington and Rayle, pretty much all my rifle shooting is done on the lease
 

Tight Lines

Senior Member
I'm in Douglasville, and my lease is in Oglethorpe county, between Lexington and Rayle, pretty much all my rifle shooting is done on the lease

I am not far from you then, I have one lease close to you...2 in Washington / Wilkes and one near you...
 

Tight Lines

Senior Member
I have always wanted to try a JP Captured Buffer.
I have an adjustable gas block so to speak on my Adams Arms System...Off and On:D
The only place I see one would be handy is on my BLK. It might make it easier for me to shoot supersonic rounds without tearing something up.
I fired a carbine once with some kind of brake that actually felt like to be it pushed the barrel down...kind of a different feeling mitigation to me...wish the guy knew what brand it was.

I think an adjustable gas block is essential if you are building a rifle or shooting suppressed. Most factory gas systems are overgassed which is hard on you and the rifle. Undergassed creates it's own set of issues...with this build which is an intermediate length gas system and a Ti bolt that I may suppress, I wanted the ability to tune it with the gas block and the JP spring. I've never had the JP spring, but I do have adjustable gas blocks. In my research the SA one is the best around...
 

Tight Lines

Senior Member
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Anti-walk pins for Geissele trigger from KNS Precision arrived in FDE. The only parts still outstanding are the charging handle and builders kit...

Then I have to decide which rings/mounts for the optics and which flip-up BUIS to get...

Cerakote is 12 weeks out so will be quiet until that comes back and then start assembly...
 
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Jester896

Senior Clown
Geissele trigger don't need anti walks...you should use the pins they make for your choice of Service, DMR, or Match
 

Tight Lines

Senior Member
Geissele trigger don't need anti walks...you should use the pins they make for your choice of Service, DMR, or Match

This is 100% true, the Geissele pins are fine and they don't recommend the anti-walks unless it is an 80% lower...the KNS pins are Geissele spec and are really more of a belt and suspenders approach. I may not use them, we'll see. A bunch of spare parts is what got me started on this build, and I have more than a few parts for the next one! :)
 

Tight Lines

Senior Member
Geissele trigger don't need anti walks...you should use the pins they make for your choice of Service, DMR, or Match

Do you know why the anti-walks would create egg holes in the lower? Somewhere I read that Bill said that, but I didn't see the video...that seems to be the opposite of what I would expect...
 

Jester896

Senior Clown
I wouldn't expect you nor I to ever have a problem with spec pins creating egg shaped holes in a lower with the use we would give a DMR. I haven't heard or don't remember hearing that anti walks did it too. If you use drop in triggers is the only way I see them useful since there are no springs to retain the pins...that is just my opinion.. and worth just that.
 

Tight Lines

Senior Member
Agreed. I'll have to do some more research...I originally researched the anti-walk pins because I was likely going with a drop in trigger, Velocity, Elftmann, Timney, etc.

Then I talked to my brother and a few others on here about the Geissele so decided to go that route. Then I researched the anti-walks for Geissele and you get conflicting information...Geissele says you don't need them and that theirs are harder, KNS says the same thing that it is an improvement and theirs are harder...but I went ahead with the order with the Geissele pins...

With all that said, with the Geissele I don't think I'll need them...it was more of a belt and suspenders approach...unless it will actually cause problems...

Keep you posted...
 
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