Remington 700 build questions

Thread starter #1
I have a REM 700 SPS in 30-06 that has always shot decent enough (1”-1 1/2”) groups. I want to make it more accurate. Could I use the same action and put a good barrel (Proof research) and bed it in a better stock? I already have a Timney trigger installed which shoots better than the heavy factory trigger. Is the SPS action worth rebarreling in terms of accuracy since it’s a cheaper model of the 700? I’ve always thrown around the idea of sanding the pressure points off in the stock to free float the barrel but have heard mixed advice on if it’ll help or hurt with sporter weight barrels. Thanks guys.
 

Mr Bya Lungshot

BANNED LUNATIC FRINGE
I have a REM 700 SPS in 30-06 that has always shot decent enough (1”-1 1/2”) groups. I want to make it more accurate. Could I use the same action and put a good barrel (Proof research) and bed it in a better stock? I already have a Timney trigger installed which shoots better than the heavy factory trigger. Is the SPS action worth rebarreling in terms of accuracy since it’s a cheaper model of the 700? I’ve always thrown around the idea of sanding the pressure points off in the stock to free float the barrel but have heard mixed advice on if it’ll help or hurt with sporter weight barrels. Thanks guys.
It ain’t over till its over.
 

Jester896

Senior Member
I would go ahead and buy the better stock that you are looking at...drop it in there and see if it doesn't close up more.

You didn't mention if you were using factory ammo or hand loads.

The front pressure point may only cause and issue on multiple shots. IMO 1 shot accuracy wouldn't be affected. It should produce the same consistency for each
cold fouled bore shot.

A 700 action is a 700 action.
 
I have a REM 700 SPS in 30-06 that has always shot decent enough (1”-1 1/2”) groups. I want to make it more accurate. Could I use the same action and put a good barrel (Proof research) and bed it in a better stock? I already have a Timney trigger installed which shoots better than the heavy factory trigger. Is the SPS action worth rebarreling in terms of accuracy since it’s a cheaper model of the 700? I’ve always thrown around the idea of sanding the pressure points off in the stock to free float the barrel but have heard mixed advice on if it’ll help or hurt with sporter weight barrels. Thanks guys.
Its been my experience that thin, factory barrels usually shoot better with a pressure point.
 
Thread starter #5
I would go ahead and buy the better stock that you are looking at...drop it in there and see if it doesn't close up more.

You didn't mention if you were using factory ammo or hand loads.

The front pressure point may only cause and issue on multiple shots. IMO 1 shot accuracy wouldn't be affected. It should produce the same consistency for each
cold fouled bore shot.

A 700 action is a 700 action.
Jester, I’ve been shooting factory loads but have a reloading set up. If I rebuilt the rifle I’d start hand loading for it to really dial it in.
 

Jester896

Senior Member
the SPS is a pretty light stock and a little on the flexible side and I would only imagine the L/A being a little worse. Once again, I would start with the stock to see if that helped the group. I'm not sure what you want to accomplish, target shooting will not be its forte, but a really good hunting rifle might be easy to accomplish. Most of my experience with forward contact points is they get removed....eventually. The replacement stock probably will not have them.
 
Thread starter #7
the SPS is a pretty light stock and a little on the flexible side and I would only imagine the L/A being a little worse. Once again, I would start with the stock to see if that helped the group. I'm not sure what you want to accomplish, target shooting will not be its forte, but a really good hunting rifle might be easy to accomplish. Most of my experience with forward contact points is they get removed....eventually. The replacement stock probably will not have them.
Jester, I probably should have said what the rifle objectives were. I’m going for a hunting rifle on the lighter side. Something that has some long range potential but that’s not the primary focus.
 

Jester896

Senior Member
I don't have anything for an ADL on hand for you to try before you make a decision. I have an older BDL type with a bedding block I was about to strip...a little heavier than a pillar bedded stock.
 

jglenn

Senior Member
Honestly never seen a Rem action that did not respond well to glass bedding the action and free floating the barrel other than a mountain rifle which have truly thin barrels.. at a minimum bed the recoil lug area and free float the barrel..
 

Darkhorse

Senior Member
My old M700 BDL LH in 7 mag. spent about 10 years in the gun safe without being fired. One year I decided to hunt with it again but I found the forend of the stock had warped severely and was pushing hard on the barrel. There was even a spot where the blueing was worn off just from sitting there.
I cut all the warp out, the bumps went too, then bedded the action and the first 2 inches of the barrel. I also free floated the rest of the barrel. I had a good thick layer of glass under the barrel to try and prevent further warpage.
I took the trigger apart to give it a good cleaning then set it at 3 pounds.
I added a limbsaver recoil pad and that cut out almost all of the kick.
I put a Leupold 3.5 X 10 scope on the rifle which is plenty for hunting but not enough to really test a accurate rifle.
Next I worked up some good loads using techniques I use for best accuracy.
Back when I was shooting it regularly around 3/4" groups was the norm, but now many of my loads now were in the 1/2" and smaller range. A higher powered scope would have tightened it even further.
I've always liked the M700 action. In this case a little work produced big improvements in the rifles accuracy.
I was pleasently surprised at the result.
 
A 700 is a 700 sps or otherwise. The sps seems to refer to the economy model with the cheap plastic stock with the pressure point.
Handloading is the biggest accuracy improvement you can make to any modern rifle in good working order period. Also one of the least expensive improvements you can make. I'd start with an accuracy load by calling a tech at sierra bullets and use the data as a starting point or by starting with the most accurate powder tested for 30-06 with 165-168gr bullets as listed by Nosler. ( IMR 4350) and work up to their most accurate charge weight (Max) You can also try torque tuning by adjusting the tension on the action screws with a FAT wrench and that will change the harmonics. This alone can make a significant difference. If trying these inexpensive fixes do the trick then spend the cash you would have spent on parts to shoot more 😎. Good luck BHJ.
All this being said the first thing I did to my700 sps vssf was adjust the trigger including the sear, the next was to put it in a Bell and Carlson medalist with the full length bedding block.
 
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I have a similar project going @Totaloutdoorsman

Older REM 700 BDL stainless with the black plastic stock....extra-flimsy version.

It has the original 24" barrel sporter weight barrel.

It's been wearing a Timney trigger for several years.....huge improvement.



I recently decided to make some additional improvements to the gun. Found a stock on sale, Hogue Overmold with bedding.

Pulled the scope off and will be changing the bases & rings.


I'd toyed with the idea of using the action for a 280 AI build....but truth is that I really like the .270 Win this rifle is chambered in....and it's currently my only .270 Win. I've got a pile of bullets to handload for it.....so it'll remain a 270Win.



I suspect the stocks on both of our rifles are where gains can be made. If I'd liked my stock in the least....I would've bedded the recoil lug & action area and seen what benefits were gained. I couldn't bring myself to spend the time trying, though....I despised that stock that much. :rofl: The sling swivel studs are worth more than the plastic injection molded junk that stock it.




Hoping to get well into this project in the weeks ahead and see how it goes at the range.
 
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Darkhorse

Senior Member
I know guys that have done all these things yet were still unhappy with the results. I am aware of a couple of things that can cause this problem. One is with the bedding. For best results the rifle should bedded using a "stress free bedding practice". This is one reason I only use Accra Gel as a bedding agent anymore.
Another is with the loading process itself. Few realize the importance of loading rounds true to the center line of the cartridge and most have runout at the bullet tip of one value or another which serves to spread out the group.
Also the actual harmonics of a barrel at firing is not fully understood, nor is all the causes and corrections known or practiced to bring the bullet into a node when fired.
Give the rifle a fair chance to shoot to it's potential by not hamstringing it right away by forgetting or ignoring a vital step.
 
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