Scope help

[cowhornedspike]

Yeah...you can imagine after 80 rounds down the tube, what my shoulder feels like.

Lead Sleds are for sighting in. Shoulders are for final confirmation and hunting.

Also, It's an elk hunt! Get a top of the line scope and mounts. No logic in going with what is on sale for an ELK hunt.

 

[killerv]

80 rounds, in what time span? Barrel could have been burning hot, hence your issues. Did you clean the gun after about every 20 rounds or so?

 

[dwhee87]

80 rounds, in what time span? Barrel could have been burning hot, hence your issues. Did you clean the gun after about every 20 rounds or so?

Two shooting sessions, spread a few weeks apart. Each one was about 40 rnds. After 5 shots, I'd stop, check and paste targets, and let the barrel cool down. I was not cleaning between every 20, but started clean, and cleaned after each session.

 

[transfixer]

I'm not a fan of 50mm objectives, years ago I bought a Leupold VariXIII 4.5x14x50mm scope, mounted it on my varmint synthetic mdl700 .308, used it a season or so and sent it back to Leupold to have target turrets installed, used it a few more seasons, while I could shoot the rifle very accurately , sub moa accurate out to 500yds, I never got used to lack of solid check weld, due to having to use high scope mounts, ended up selling the scope and going back to a 40mm scope,

I've never seen the benefit of the larger objectives, given that you have to sacrifice a good cheek weld, and the added center of bore to center of sightline difference,

I've never owned a Vortex scope, I understand their top line expensive models have very good reputations, but have not been impressed with the lower lines I've looked at

If I were going on an Elk hunt, I'd want the best glass I could reasonably afford, I wouldn't want to risk not knowing if I could depend on my scope to be dead nuts on, especially given you might be hunting in some rugged terrain, where a slip or fall could knock things out of whack

 

[Jester896]

there is only about .393 difference between 40mm and 50mm. If you divide that in half it would only be roughly .2 inches or about 1/4" closer to the barrel. If you can slide a 1/4" drill bit under the 40mm bell with good clearance the rings you have should be good. I have seen many 40mm scopes with that much clearance easy on a bunch of hunting rifle setups. I actually have a 56mm bell mounted in X low rings on a picatinny setup on one of my hunting rifles...I did have to scallop the cap so it didn't touch the barrel. It also has a somewhat adjustable comb on it (MagPul Hunter Stock). If it was on a zero cant rail it would be farther away. It shouldn't be hard to adjust your cheek weld for that amount or put a mole skin over the top.

 

[dwhee87]

My older 40mm scope (1-inch tube) was just above both the barrel, and the action, and the zoom adjust was almost touching the top of the bolt, with the original standard rings. New scope is a 30mm tube, plus the 50mm objective. No way it fits without raising it. I did measure the clearance, and I have just under 3/8 inch between the bottom of the objective lens and the barrel. Didn't measure the other end.

 

[Jester896]

I didn't catch while reading that you went from a 1" tube to 30mm tube

 

[coolbreezeroho]

Have you tried shooting off a lead sled ? Could be your cheek weld to the stock is off now ...

 

[Long Cut]

SWFA or NightForce

Buy once, Cry once.

I can modify and upgrade a weapon, I cannot modify a scope besides buying a better one.

 

[tcward]

I suggest a different ring/base set up. I think steel is the way to go with a heavy recoil gun. Also make sure all action screws in your gun are tightened. Is the barrel freefloated? If not, maybe something you need to do. All of course my opinions.

 

[dwhee87]

Circling back to wrap up the story. Sent the scope back to Vortex, they said they fixed something and sent it back. I mounted, zeroed, and shot again at 100 & 200 yds. Same unsatisfactory results.

I took it off, put my Simmons 6-18 back on, and shot that this weekend, maintaining 2-inch groups at 100. I did have a couple different loads that I shot, and got very different results with both. Settled on the one that performed the best. Next weekend, I'll go to the 200 yd range that's a further away, and see if the success at 100 is repeatable at 200 yds.

At least I'm confident with the Simmons. I've killed deer with it out to 300 yds several times. I'll just stick with what I know.

 

[HughW2]

Elk hunts are expensive. Scopes and binoculars are really important to your chance of success. On my hunts I used Leupolds 2.5-8x and 3.5 -10. As noted above weight of your rifle can wear on you hiking up the hills I would not recommend over 44mm objective. Big objectives add a lot to overall weight. If you can afford it check out Swarovski or Schmidt & Bender Klassik.

 

[coolbreezeroho]

Reading some peoples post about you changing your cheek rest on the stock by going with a 50mm bell scope have you thought about trying a
rifle cheek rest ? I have one on my muzzle loader has a pouch on the opposite side that I keep my jag and a few other things in it for rainy days It does raise my line of sight up some. You couid even test it out I would say by folding a hand towel over your stock and trying a few shots before buying actually buying a rifle cheek rest....They are priced at midway for like 24 dollars an up. I would say a lead sled is a must also.

Let my brother borrow my lead sled once to sight in one time . The next week he sent me a picture of his new lead sled ....They do make a big difference on the shoulder and make it a pleasure to shoot

 

[dwhee87]

Reading some peoples post about you changing your cheek rest on the stock by going with a 50mm bell scope have you thought about trying a
rifle cheek rest ? I have one on my muzzle loader has a pouch on the opposite side that I keep my jag and a few other things in it for rainy days It does raise my line of sight up some. You couid even test it out I would say by folding a hand towel over your stock and trying a few shots before buying actually buying a rifle cheek rest....They are priced at midway for like 24 dollars an up. I would say a lead sled is a must also.

Let my brother borrow my lead sled once to sight in one time . The next week he sent me a picture of his new lead sled ....They do make a big difference on the shoulder and make it a pleasure to shoot

I bought a comb kit that raised the cheek pad by about 1/2 inch. I didn't notice much difference in results.

 

[mwood1985]

I've shot alot of rifles with Vortex glass. Only one I've ever had an issue with was a 4x10 Crossfire on a Browning BAR 7 Mag. Same scope on my Winchester 70 and same problem. They just sent me a new one. I never did figure out what the problem was but it was internal

 

[1eyefishing]

Circling back to wrap up the story. Sent the scope back to Vortex, they said they fixed something and sent it back. I mounted, zeroed, and shot again at 100 & 200 yds. Same unsatisfactory results.

I took it off, put my Simmons 6-18 back on, and shot that this weekend, maintaining 2-inch groups at 100. I did have a couple different loads that I shot, and got very different results with both. Settled on the one that performed the best. Next weekend, I'll go to the 200 yd range that's a further away, and see if the success at 100 is repeatable at 200 yds.

At least I'm confident with the Simmons. I've killed deer with it out to 300 yds several times. I'll just stick with what I know.

Did you check your focus (and parallax adj if possible) ?
Sounds to me like it could be you're not seeing the same detail through the vortex.
Get them side-by-side and swap back-and-forth from one to the other with the same eye at the same time.

 

[Big7]

Putting a bumper sticker on a Bentley comes to mind.

Elk hunts are expensive. Scopes and binoculars are really important to your chance of success. On my hunts I used Leupolds 2.5-8x and 3.5 -10. As noted above weight of your rifle can wear on you hiking up the hills I would not recommend over 44mm objective. Big objectives add a lot to overall weight. If you can afford it check out Swarovski or Schmidt & Bender Klassik.

 

[Big7]

And... I have a new torque screwdriver you can borrow.

I got the X44MM version of that scope. IDK if yours has the same reticle as mine but the Crossfire 2 6X18X44 #CF2-31033 is a little busy for me. It's the first one of that type I bought and haven't even mounted it yet. I got it for a 100yd rimfire I'm working on so we will see.

Franklins has a Leupold VX-3D CDS-ZL on sale and I put one on layaway to put on my new JP Sauer Blaser 100 in 300 Win. Mag. Sale price is $599.99. That's more scope than you will ever need on any hunting/field grade rifle.

 

[BBQOutdoors77]

If you know the rifle shoots well (especially with a Simmons) it’s definitely the scope. Good on ya for getting it sorted out now. I’d personally quit wasting time and ammo on that scope.

SWFA makes some bomb proof scopes and usually had a Memorial Day sale. You can get a fixed 10 or 12 for $200 (30 mm tubes). Guys on two other forums got me onboard and I’m there.

SWFA 10x42 SS 30mm Riflescope

SWFA 10x42 SS 30mm Riflescope Details SKU: SS10X42MMOA Finish: Matte Reticle: MOA-Quad Tube Diameter (mm): 30 Elevation Knob: Exposed Target (1/4 MOA) Windage Knob: Exposed Target (1/4 MOA) Parallax Setting: Side Focus Focal Plane: Second

www.swfa.com

^^^This^^^

 

[Jester896]

probably just a set up issue and not the scope...1/2" may not have been enough depending on how high the rings are. 3/8" seems like a lot of clearance if that was on the new scope.
What is the clearance on the old scope?

I use a 22X to shoot 1K on my Long Range rifle. I have used a 4.5-14X40 but it isn't as easy to pick out bullets strikes on dark targets

maybe some pictures of the 2 set ups would help