Rubber Roof

• Aug 23, 2008

• #1

T

Todd E

Senior Member

I had priced a new one last year out of curiosity.
Hadn't used camper all year due to many reasons.
Getting it ready for huntin' now. Tires are on. After
removing cover today, I must do something about
the roof !! A new one is out of the question !! CampingWorld
offers cans of a)rubber roof primer and b)rubber roof sealer.

Has anyone tried this stuff?
Does it "do the job" it should?
Easy?
Tips?

Roof has become tacky in spots and actually stuck to my crocs while I was on roof. In some spots, it is cracked....not ripped.... The entire roof is chalky. Every year I have cleaned it and treated it with conditioner/protector, but this year it needs more !!!!!

 

• Aug 23, 2008

• #2

onemilmhz

Senior Member

My RV is still pretty new so I have only used the roof cleaner products so far. How old is your rig? From everything I've been told, read, etc. a rubber roof is on fumes after 8-10 years and sooner if not properly cared for. Resealing an RV roof is not something I look forward to, simply because you have to be so careful not to miss anything. I've actually thought about fiberglassing the roof on mine for that reason. My dad did the roof on his Winnebago years ago and when he got rid of it it was still in great shape. A small leak can mean BIG damage if not caught early. I would speak to someone at CW or check RV.net for specific information about the job before trying to tackle it yourself.

 

• Aug 24, 2008

• #3

hambone303

Member

Check Tweety's.com for roof material and other supplies. Although I don't have any problems yet, I am looking to replace my roof in the next year or so for peace of mind. I have heard they last only 10-15 years typically. It looks like a fairly easy process depending on the number of roof openings you have to work around. The new EPDM materials are better than they were 10 years ago, and usually have a 20-30 year guarantee. There is also a company called Weatherbond, out of Plainfield, PA. that is a good source of info and materials.
The camping/RV places want $4500.00 minimum to repalce a class A roof. You can get the materials for under $600.00 to do it yourself.

 

• Aug 24, 2008

• #4

hambone303

Member

Also try pplmotorhomes.com

 

• Aug 24, 2008

• #5

T

Todd E

Senior Member

Thanks hb. Tweety's looks like the ticket. I've worked with DiCor products before and am familiar to an extent with the roof itself. I have replaced vent coverings and "skylight" dome over shower. May just look at temp treatment of roof and replace it after season.

Question......have you messed with this stuff before? All exterior items would have to be romoved from the roof in order to replace with a new membrane. I've been in the rv shop before when they had one in there replacing the roof. I've got a shelter to get it under while doing job. I have never attempted anything with the a/c. Would not know a thing about removing it !!!! Have you torn one apart?

 

• Aug 25, 2008

• #6

LYNN

Senior Member

Just about everybody in our camp keeps a tarp on

theres, just in case.

 

• Aug 26, 2008

• #7

hambone303

Member

No I have never torn an A/C apart but I think it should be easy enough to get out.
If you search around on one of the RV Foums you will find write ups on how to replace the membrane. It doesn't appear to be difficult at all, to me...

 

• Sep 7, 2008

• #8

BULLHART

Member

Todd, If you need any help let me know. I work for Firestone, one of the largest manufacturers of EPDM membrane. I train roofing contractors, and inspect for a living. I'd be happy to lend a hand if you decide that you need it.

 

• Sep 8, 2008

• #9

Slingblade

Gone But Not Forgotten

Why not get it sprayed with truck bed liner (Rhinoliner, Line-X)?

 

• Sep 9, 2008

• #10

deerehauler

Senior Member

I worked for a RV dealership in Jackson Ga for awhile and have replaced the rubber roof membrane before. Most of the cost is labor. Removing everything on top is not that bad. hardest part is getting sealant off vents to remove. A/C unit is easy it unbolts from inside and is just got a rubber seal that gets squished when bolts are tightened. Do not over tighten when reinstalling. It is about a 16 hr job for a 30 footer. If you want a temb fix for some bad areas just to get you by for a short time buy a couple tubes of Dicor self leveling lap sealer and lay it on thick in bad areas. If this is not a rubber membrane roof then thats a different animal. Let me know and I can give you some help with that also.

 

• Sep 9, 2008

• #11

BULLHART

Member

I have some rolls of Thermoplastic Poly Olefin Roofing membrane that will work good as well. Heat welded seams are saaweeeet.

 

• Sep 9, 2008

• #12

T

Todd E

Senior Member

I have gotten some eternabond tape to cover some spots of concern. I am gonna tarp it to get through deer season.

Next spring, we will figure out what route to go. Have found roof and install kit on net. Have found this trowel on rubber roof stuff, too. My main problem besides overall wear factor is that I have some ripples in it where the adhesive broke loose. Best option will be to replace whole rubber roof. Thanks deerehauler. The a/c was one area of concern. Didn't know how it came apart.

I'll keep the offers in mind next spring. Would gladly compensate for help.

 

• Sep 9, 2008

• #13

dixie

Senior Member

Slingblade said:

Why not get it sprayed with truck bed liner (Rhinoliner, Line-X)?

Click to expand...

thats what I was thinking and if you wanted to, pep-boys sells doityourself roll on kits

 

• Sep 10, 2008

• #14

W

whitworth

Senior Member

I'm glad I settled on

on a plain old tent. Every once in awhile I spray on silicone.
I kind of like the simplicity of it all.

 

• Sep 21, 2008

• #15

JHerk

Member

I need to replace my roof also and have been thinking about doing it myself. My question is how to remove the awning with out letting the spring unwind? Any advise would be helpful.

 

• Sep 22, 2008

• #16

deerehauler

Senior Member

There is holes at the end of the awning tube that you can stick cotter pins thru. The are located by the end caps. Make sure you put them in both ends and be very careful these springs are wound really tight and can really mess a hand or something else up in a hurry. once its got pins in it the rest is a breeze to remove. May take 2 people if its a long awning. Let me know if you have any other questions.

 

• Sep 24, 2008

• #17

JHerk

Member

Thanks deerhauler I always wondered what those holes were for.

 

• Sep 29, 2008

• #18

O

organcory

Member

Rubber roof

My Travel trailer is currently in the shop getting a new rubber roof put on. It is a 2006, pretty crappy huh. IT is a gulfstream 26TRS. We were on our way to Stone Mountain from Columbia, SC and happened to look back to see the roof flapping. Nice way to ruin a weekend and few months of camping. THe amazing thing is that the insurance company covered it all under our vehicle insurance, since it was on the policy. SO if you dont have your camper on the policy, you may want to.

 

• Sep 29, 2008

• #19

J

jconn115

Member

hey deerhauler i worked at a jackson dealership as well. i had to get out of that place. on the 06 trailer it should have been under warranty either throught the gulfstream or the roof manu. in the future dont buy a gulfstream, great floor plans, crappy craftsmanship.

 

• Sep 29, 2008

• #20

B

btt202

Senior Member

i did my 29 ft. epdm rubber roof for about $600 and that was decking too! glue costed more than the rubber .Got my rubber and glue and new vents in cordeal ga at a place called CDI rubber was about $100 , 5 gals glue was about $130 you can't use just any old glue on the rubber.....vents was $25 each someone messed up my hole roof with cool seal ! cool seal and rubber don't go good together!!!!!!!! i used one sheet of rubber 15 x 32 white side up . they gave me a few extra feet of rubber