Boat drain question?

• May 18, 2017

• #1

Riplukelee

Senior Member

So I have a quick question. 2000 Seahunt escape 175 ... brass 1/2"? Drain bottom of the transom ... problem is that you have to screw the drain plug in so far that you can barely get a pair of pliers or a wrench or anything else on it to tighten it or loosen it. I've noticed this on several other boats with this same style of plug. With use the plug screws in farther and farther until is way down in there. If you don't tighten it all the way in ... it takes in a lot more water than normal. Tips? Tricks? Advice?

 

• May 18, 2017

• #2

roperdoc

Senior Member

Sounds like the threads are worn or made out of spec. Maybe try one of the plastic plugs, they seem slightly tighter in my boat and seal well. They are cheap enough to replace yearly (3-4 bucks).
I usually keep an extra or two in the boat. Rector seal soft set thread sealant may help also.
Your other option may be to have a machinist turn a slightly larger plug or one with a slight shoulder, or cap a short nipple for use as a plug.

 

• May 18, 2017

• #3

W

WayneB

Senior Member

the garboard plug has tapered threads, sounds as if your plug has straight threads or has worn the taper off.
probably faster/ easier to replace the housing and plug together as a unit, rather than hoping you score a good fitting tapered plug to match your housing. A quick amazon search shows prices from $6 to $30.

 

• May 18, 2017

• #4

Riplukelee

Senior Member

Yeah. I was trying to get away without removing the fitting from the fiberglass. I know it's just three screws but I didn't wanna mess with it. Looks like I don't have much choice.

 

• May 18, 2017

• #5

dawg2

AWOL ADMINISTRATOR

Pull it and replace it.

 

• May 18, 2017

• #6

flingin1

Senior Member

Teflon tape

 

• May 19, 2017

• #7

W

WayneB

Senior Member

I've used either 5 minute or 15 minute epoxy to bed and seal the new fitting to the hull. a couple minutes with a heat gun softens the epoxy enough to pull off, a wipedown with isopropyl achohol (rubbing alchohol) and bed the new one in.
JB weld works the same way, it takes a little more heat to de-bond.
End results; it seals completely and any intrusion will be through the plug and bore, which you can cure with pipe dope or tape.

 

• May 19, 2017

• #8

capt stan

Senior Member

You need to change it out. Simple process bro. DONT get some plastic crap. Get the real deal.. remove the old one..clean area up sand it down use 5200 as a sealer when you replace the new one. Good to go. 30 min job at the most . Let it cure/ set for at least 24 hours before use.

 

• May 22, 2017

• #9

B

boatbuilder

Senior Member

Riplukelee said:

Yeah. I was trying to get away without removing the fitting from the fiberglass. I know it's just three screws but I didn't wanna mess with it. Looks like I don't have much choice.

Click to expand...

Try a new plug first. You might not have to replace the fitting.

The fitting should be Bronze a harder metal with a softer brass plug.

If you still need to replace the fitting it's still a good idea to have a spare plug in the boat anyway

 

• May 22, 2017

• #10

Riplukelee

Senior Member

Tried a new plug. Same result. It's not going in any further so I'll order the new fitting and replace it. Right now I'm beefing up the backing plate for the bow eye/u-bolt. It was loose and makes me very uncomfortable when the boat is being lifted in or out.

 

• May 22, 2017

• #11

Steve762us

Senior Member

I've had several years good luck on sealing several below-the-waterline thru-hulls with polyurethane sealant, from Lowes caulk & sealant aisle. Stays rubbery, grips like the dickens, but can be 'undone' if needed.

5200 is the usual go-to answer, but dang, if properly applied and you EVER need to go back and take off whatever you used it on, expect to cause additional damage in addition to whatever you were trying to fix in the first place.

 

• May 23, 2017

• #12

Riplukelee

Senior Member

Thanks Steve762

 

• May 23, 2017

• #13

B

BDD

Senior Member

My brass plus has about a 3 inch “ T “ with the threaded plug on the end, you can tighten it
My hand and remove it by hand. You might be able to find one like that.

 

• May 24, 2017

• #14

mose

Senior Member

I would use the 4200. It will give you a a good seal and you can remove it down the road if needed.

 

• May 24, 2017

• #15

dawg2

AWOL ADMINISTRATOR

BDD said:

My brass plus has about a 3 inch “ T “ with the threaded plug on the end, you can tighten it
My hand and remove it by hand. You might be able to find one like that.

Click to expand...

I would only use a threaded plug for the main drain. Too much risk for a compression fitting plug to fail and your boat sinks. Those t-plugs are good for livewells.

 

• May 25, 2017

• #16

Riplukelee

Senior Member

They make brass threaded T plugs ... I've ordered one.