tilt tamer install..pic's

after the international round, I figured out that I've got major left right problems. I know it's hand torque on the humpy handle on my alpine. I thought I had it beat, but my sight picture keeps shifting left and right, and the shots go awry. the ones that line up, go perfectly. I bought a tilt tamer, I call it a torque tamer because it's deigned to relieve the side to side stress applied by the bus cables. the one I got for $10 on e bay was for a right handed bow, but I slightly modified everything with the help of leon pittman (who made me a new cable rod) to get it to work on my up side down bow!!. the stock cable rod was bent too high up, so the block couldn't slide down far enough. with leon's, you'll notice is way down close to the riser. then the rod was too short..luckily there was just enough of my old carbon fiber rod left to extend it. I know a lot of folks say these don't work, but i'm desperate and am going to give it a try, lol

Good luck with it. I just got a ArcTec. Going to put it on my Pro Comp Elite. Let us know how it works for you.

Got an arctec on my pro comp also and love it

Trey , have you tried a 10 degree ofsett on yor front stabilizer .... It works for left an right problems also

works great..sight picture is more uniform and bow holds better. buss cables are 1/4" apart bow sits in my hand better. only bad part is I had to set it a little too much away from my arrow at full draw, which means there is a little extra tension (slightly more than fletch clearance) on the cable rod at rest. i'll continue to play with it. the proof will be the 900 round coming up at gainesville I am seeing a little too much resistence on the cable rod because of the angle, so I put some silicon and graphite on it. I ordered an saunders cable slide with a roller in it. it'll be here in few days...also had to order a cable stopper because of the potential string to rod contact on release. the rod is very close to the string at rest. just little things, but they're costing me $$$$ I don't have, lol!! I had to set it this way because the buss cables were actually covering up my sight pin. especially in 3d, you've got to be able to see a good bit of the target..not like shooting spots

people say they don't work?? well maybe the "tilt" part of the equation is wasted, but the torque part is what i'm interested in. at full draw a regular buss cable arrangement has a lot of side to side pulling on the cams and cable rod..plus additional friction on the slide itself...stands to reason if the cables are straight down from cam to cam, or almost straight down, there's got to be a whole lot less stress on the entire mechanism. the important part of that statement is "at full draw", when everything is maxed out, stresswise )is that a word??)

I might be preaching here, but i'm here to tell ya, "hand torque" is the enemy. it's a subtile killer. you really won't hardly notice it, but like high blood pressure, it will kill a shot..especially a long shot. If you don't believe, just let your buss cables infringe on your sight picture a little...and then watch the way they move around from side to side each time you draw your bow back. put a little mark on your sight mask and watch the buss cable dance around. it has to be exactly in the same position every time or your riser is torqueing due to your hand placement or whatever. just sayin

Will this turn 8's into 12's.

hopefully, what would really help is folks that can't be sure it's out, would call those 8's "in". just sayin'

BOW DOC said:

Trey , have you tried a 10 degree ofsett on yor front stabilizer .... It works for left an right problems also

Click to expand...

Yes, I have been using one for nearly 10-yrs. Settles the bow faster, with less weight, too.

just got my cable stopper in the mail..well at full draw with the buss cables converging on the string location..had to "notch" the rubber on the cable stopper to clear. pain in the buttocks